Instead of tubing Lifer Oil Galley

Hello guys,

I was wondering on the passenger side, if I could tap a plug on the entrance of oil galley, where it comes from the oil pump towards the oil pressure sensor. There's a plug that I could remove, and tap some other plug on the entrance of lifter oil galley.
Is this feasible or do you see any caveats on that? Instead of tubing....

Thanks and Regards,

My choice would be to bush all 16 lifters bores and put the size of oil hole in them you want to lube your lifters

Cabs option is what I would do now, but I have done what you've suggested myself in the past, & it does work.

Are you are talking about restricting the passenger galley at the front? That can not be done as that galley feeds the mains. You can restrict the entire drivers side galley from the rear if you are using solid lifters.
Doug

You better find yourself an old Direct Connection book and do some reading and really understand the oiling system before you start this project. Good luck

Yes, this to use solid roller lifters.

He attached a picture that shows he is talking about the rear of the block ????

if you do that there won't be any oil for the mains.

This has been discussed.

Solid lifters or solid rollers I assume.

The left (drivers) galley does nothing but oil the lifters. It is just a big oil leak at the end of the right passage and should be eliminated. You can plug the passage coming from the #1 main up to the front of that galley in the bearing saddle or behind the cam thrust plate. There is no oil needed in that passage. Put the rear plug - behind the distributor - back in to seal it.

The right galley you are pointing to can be massaged to relive some corners and restrictions, but that one needs to be kept full of solid oil under pressure, all the way to the front chinawall, to keep the engine alive

I much prefer lifter bushing to tubing.

#1 It is not easy for a DIY to bore that right passage and keep it on center due to the lifter bores allowing it to veer off
#2 Bushing corrects the often times mis-machining of the lifter bores
#3 Corrects for wear and supports the lifters better
#4 Oil galleys can be kept pressurized, bushings drilled to oil hydraulic lifters and 16 large oil leaks are eliminated
#5 If you use the wrong copper material and break a lifter bore out trying to peen it, you won't be the first person to have done that.

Beyond that, other modifications and restrictions can be done to keep the oil on the crank instead of flying off to other destinations in high RPM applications.

Hi guys, thanks for answering. Yes, this will be a solid roller camshaft and I was referring to the back of the block as per picture.

But accordingly to most of you, if I do that, there will be no oil for the mains.... is that understanding correct?


Thanks and BR,

Yes. That passage needs to be as free and non-restrictive as possible, from the pump to the #1 main. The mains (and hydraulic lifters) are fed from that galley. From there, it goes squirting off to other places, Cam, heads, this is for an LA block.


If you are running high RPMs and/or need to get oil to stay on the crank to address bearing issues, restrictions and mods are done after the mains get their's.

Instead of tubing the block theres an article somewhere about tying the two main galleries together right about where the rocker oiling intersect the main gallery. Sorry I dont have all the info at this time.

That was some old stuff trying to get oil to that galley directly instead of taking it off the front main. May be relevant with hydraulics. Solids? No oil in the passage needed.

There is validity in putting oil into both ends of the main galley. Especially at higher RPMS. Takes some more effort though and is usual done along with other mods.

You can block the back of the block. But do it at the rear of drivers side galley. The two lifter galleys are connected by an X formed by the to rear two oil tap galleys behind the rear china wall. If you plug off the passenger side rear those two taps will be dry.
Doug

This is a small block. not a big block. There is no x in the back of a small block.

Boy I blew it there. Dah the picture is a small block. Carry on.
Doug

I just didn't want them to block the rear feed.

Ok guys, it´s crystal clear now. Will not do that!

Thanks,

Like I said earlier get yourself and old Direct Connection book so you can understand the oiling system before diving in. I’ve never had one set up with bronze bushings because of the 600.00 and up cost of doing it. I’ve hand drilled mine and they have turned out fine. Then I use 1/2 inch copper house water pipe. If I live another 10 years I may buy a hone to make it more a slip fit. Forget to redrill one single hole and your engine is toast.

You got an example of all of my tricks. That turd went from putting rod bearings in it every 6 or 7 runs to going a full season and looking pretty good at the end of the year. I had plenty of expert shops work on it, with zero results, before I took it apart and figured it out. Had some old guy give me some tips and I ran with it.

You still have any of that? I may want to buy it back at some point.

To late. It’s been sitting together (short block) and hopefully my son gets his car ready and I will finish a set of Edelbrock heads I have here for him to borrow. He bought a fab 9 inch housing and is updating his car from his old 8 3/4. He also switched over to powerglide so lots of updates.

Great. Was a good piece for me once I got it squared away.