Race Car wiring

What connectors do you use when wiring a race car? Which ones handle higher amperages? Seems like the weather pack connectors melt down at 30amps.

I just use real 3M connectors rated for for the circuit im wiring. On many areas i prefer "non- insulated" and just use good quality heat shrink. I seem to get more consistent crimps ( weld joints) with non- insulated connectors.
FWIW

I use kind of a mix of Metripack and weatherpack. I haven't had any issues yet. My fan plug can be questionable but it plugs directly into the fan and its a cheapo deal so I don't fault the connector.

I think the flagship is the Deutsh(spelling) connectors. They can get expensive and the good crimping tools can also be expensive.

My weather pack ones for the fans, are the ones that melted down....Where do you guys source the good connectors and stuff?

I used Deutsch connectors where ever possible on my Road Runner. So much nicer than Weather pack, or metri pack connectors. I have access to all three at work. I save all the connectors when we scrap out machines, and just buy new pins for them.

30 amps is a bunch, for anything other than a starter on a race car. Weatherpacks are made for up to 10-12 gauge which should handle 30A fine. Is the motor a problem? Never seen one even half that. I've never had a hint of a problem with the Weatherpack stuff..

Is that one fan or multiples? On multiples, I use a separate relay and wiring for each motor.

Each fan had its own supply wire, but I put the grounds to one common one thru the weather pack.....So it was closer to 2 fans x 27amps each....

Try splitting the grounds to individuals all the way to the stud, chassis, buss or whatever the main ground is.

I just use spade connections

My fan is close to 40 amps and I use a #10 wire and the correct matching pins in a weatherpak connector. Absolutely no issues. I suspect that you either had a bad crimp or undersized wiring or pins.

i like the Deutsch connectors as well. just make sure you have a quality tool to crimp them with.
as has also been stated, sometimes you need to use an un-insulated spade, ring, or pin. i like to use the ones that are tin plated, but i have also used bare copper as well.
when using shrink tubing, i have now started to use the marine grade, which has a sealer glue inside. just seems like an extra measure of keeping a good connection between the wire and the terminal.

x2!

I was wondering if I should switch....I have a pile of weather pack connectors though.

Also, what wire labler & lables are you all using?

What are Deutsch connectors, brand or type?
How about a picture of them please

https://www.delcity.net/store/DEUTSCH-Connectors/p_822961

The problem with Deutsch right now is in stock availability, like so much other stuff these days.

https://deutschusa.com/ Look nice

I'm glad I ask and you guys help me see what they make, Thanks a lot
Nice looking parts
I'm use to 3M brand Scotchlock connectors and the local parts store inventory on ends.

Cab, if you are referring to the "cut into the wire squeeze with pliers-fold over cover" wire tap when you mention "scotchlocks", i rate them right up there with those "bolt on" battery terminal ends............
i REALLY don't like them !
just my opinion, your mileage will vary.

I worked for a telephone company for 33 yrs, those Scotchlok type connectors are used in that industry, insert the wires and pushdown the lock in plug
3M catered to that industry, we mainly use wire gauge from 19 to 26 gauge depending on how far the customer was from the central office
One time use only also

when i switched to comcast for my phone, internet, and tv, i saved a bunch over the separate monthly bills.
however, scotchlok type of connectors were used inside the house on the phone wiring.
those things gave TERRIBLE reception, and i had comcast here on trouble shooting calls quite a few times.
i finally gave up on those guys and redid ALL of the phone connections BACK to the old fashioned square blocks with the four screws attaching the phone wires.
the phones work like they SHOULD now !
i hope you can see why i'm not a fan of the scotchlok connectors.
just my opinion. your mileage will vary !

I use those connectors for many years using the Scotch lock crimpers, I've seen more than one Tel.Co employee crimp them with thieir nine inch pliers, NOT GOOD
The pliers do not force the blades in the connectors to seat evenly on the wires which can end up creating a high resistance connection which will end up causing problems with noise and no connections sometimes

want to come to Pa. when i need phone service ?
just kidding !

Should be able to find someone local.. Plenty of guys around here wire whole cars with scotch-locs and electrical tape. Just get a big roll of red wire at the auto parts and git-r-dun.

Just rewired our dragster with Duestch connectors throughout. IMO just a little cleaner than Weatherpacks, but we have used them plenty on the past, but can get bulky sometimes

I like and use a Brady BMP21 wire labeler most of the time with white nylon/black letters tape, but they make self laminating labels too, they also make shrink tube labels but they can be troublesome.

I have a Brady also and being able to do the shrink tubing is slick and makes working on the car much easier.

Al do you know the max wire size for a Duestch connector? Weatherpack spec goes to #10 wire which is handy at times.

A #12 Deutsch will hold a 10 gauge wire. They are available in 2 and 4 pin though. But I cannot imagine what on a racecar would even need a 4 pin 10 gauge wire

Two 27 amp fans....(Street/strip car)

The best one ever was my buddy's '65 Mustang that was wired entirely in yellow wire. It was hilarious trying to troubleshoot anything until he finally ripped it out.

The price of admission for Deutsch - including parts, tools, etc - causes some to have second thoughts. Expensive tools to do your car and then throw them in the tool box.

Maybe you need better quality wire....

Well we all know I have had many cars and will have more not to mention the work we do for others. Yep its not the cheap way out but neither is a Bryant crank when a Callies crank will do or why bother there when an Eagle does the same thing

I'm going to have to dig out one of my old college books on direct current to get the formula to figure out what size gauge wire is proper (maybe use the next gauge bigger for insurance) to use to wire my new drag car

Cab, will this work for you ?


i need to try again...........

Here is a chart on wire usage
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html