CopperKote antisieze on spark plug threads ?

Anyone do this ?

Plugs need a good ground, I have read to use oil but that doesn't seem like a good idea.

I do on my aluminum heads.

Read a bulletin years ago from NGK that said NOT to use the copper as it makes the plug hard to ground in the head and that Alum. anti-seize was better. I use motor oil myself....

I use copper anti-seize on the threads only. I'd like to see whoever claims that anti-seize on the threads hinders the ground provide some test information. I'm sure the contact between the seat of the spark plug, the aluminum spark plug tube, and the cylinder head provide plenty of ground even if the threads were completely insulated by the anti-seize.

I learn to use liquid graphite anti seize, Champion plug brand, on my airplane spark plugs in aluminum heads back in the early 1990s, I've been using on the street and race motors with aluminum heads every since then A few drops on the threads works great

I've also used lead and aluminum based antisieze, whatever is on hand. No problems with grounding.

Been a mechanic for over 35 years and probably installed a couple thousand plugs with just a couple drops of oil on the threads .

Gus

If the plugs are R&R regularly oil is OK. For really long intervals, it becomes carbon and will engrave aluminum threads.
Anti-seize reduces heat transfer, but apparently not enough to matter.

My understanding is that CopperKote is used by electricians to fasten rigid electrical conduit together.

It is conducting and keeps the grounding continuous. Also inhibits rust.

X2. Besides, the washer or taper on the plug still seats on the head for a good round.

1. Anti-seize

NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.

Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.

Thanks cos some still need to argue with the FACTS......

Good to know!

Just to support the "dont use antisieze" movement. as someone mentioned previously it also prohibits heat transfer, This overheats the plug and causing pre detonation and premature plug failure.

This subject gets beat to death. Been a mechanic for well over 30 years. Never and I repeat Never has even one manufacturer ever used lube of any sort on any spark plug thread ever...

Well, I've used anti-sieze (nickel) on spark plug threads for over 30 years. Iron heads, aluminum heads, flat seat, tapered seat, domestic and imported, small engine and large engine. Haven't had one problem. You have to realize what the head material is and how anti-sieze affects the torque but I would think any competent mechanic should realize those two factors when installing plugs.

What I have read from NGK they say none on their plugs on Aluminum heads but yes on the black threaded plugs like AC and autolite on aluminum heads.

Every time I have ever removed a spark plug and the threads came out with it the reason was because they were clearly installed dry. Not such a big deal with hot rods and such with short removal intervals but the newer engines with double iridium that are supposed to be in the engine over 100,000 or just lazy people running others that long is where they get siezed in the head and ruin the threads. On customer cars I always use something because you never know how long they will try to run before they ever replace plugs again. A mechanic with any feel for what he is doing can tighten it without stripping it.

As for heat transfer, if anything it would make the plug run colder not hotter, only silver conducts heat faster than copper, the copper will transfer heat faster as the particles fill space and make more contact with the steel on steel or steel on aluminum.

I don't use NGK, so their coating is irrelevant to me. Why spend the big bucks on them, when AC's work just as well at 1/4 the price.

I run NGK and have never put any anti seize on them. I dont do a incredible hulk impression when I tighten them either, however.

Anti sieze has it place but I wont put it on anything that I have to remove at regular intervals.

Its a mess and gets on EVERYTHING...

I have used Autolite plugs for year and have always applied just a little silver anti seize and have never had any issues.

I think there may be more than a few phord owners who wished that phord had used something on their spark plugs.

That was the idiots who thought 2 or 3 threads were plenty to hold a spark plug in....

Ford Engineering at their best :whistling :

I use the nickel anti-seize and NGK plugs. No problems.
On the other hand I have used different anti-seize and spark plugs with no problems either.
Been using the anti-seize ever since I put a Champion plug into a new (clean) aluminum head, and it seized a few threads, and it was just installed finger tight, on the bench to check how far the plug extended into the chamber.

Yep, carbon build up on threads and crappy Autolite 2-piece plugs.
PIA changing those, lucky to see chatter on Mustang forum, only broke 2, and that was after only 30k.
Nickel high temp on everything now.

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

https://www.ngkntk.in/how-to-prevent-your-spark-plugs-from-seizing/

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/anti-seize-spark-plug-threads

So if you are an idiot and over torque your spark plugs you will have problems. Hmm. But I can prevent spark plug seizure by revving the engine and replacing oil and filters on a regular basis using good oil. Hmm. Think I'll keep using the nickel anti-seize.

Im running a gen 2 hemi now. All the oil it needs every plug change😂😂😂

Neither has my ex wife, I suspect because she never had to change a set of platinum plugs after 100,000 miles or cared.

Not the way I would phrase it, but I agree with your sentiment.

Find it hard to believe copper can corrode more or enough relatively, to reduce conductivity in this environment.

i have been using anti-seize on plugs forever, it seems. just a dab is all i use, and i don't use a two foot cheater bar to torque them down.
with plugs that have been in use for eleventythousand miles, i run the engine to get some heat in the heads, then "feel" what it wants for the plug to break loose.
sometimes, i have "bad feelings" before the plug finally breaks loose...........

Anti-seize gives many people a license to slather. I can see why some people have issues when using it. More ain't better!

aluminum's number 1 anti corrosive agent is zinc. long term heating up and cooling down cycles can put moisture in the threads area = oxidation . if you are worried about it , use zinc chromates on the threads . i am pretty sure most [not all] come with a coating on them anyhow..

Exactly.

Oxidation of alum is almost unpreventable. Actually one of Alum best attributes is the hardness/toughness of the normal oxidised alum surface.
I believe what is the issue here is one of the combustion by products of every power stroke, among other things, is H2O, albeit its at very high temps, but nevertheless, it is still present. And I also suspect under the pressures the plug endures, some, even a minute amount, will find some H2O forced into the threads, where it will eventually condense. Electrolysis requires moisture, and a steel spark plug and an alum head are good candidates for electrolytic corrosion, and will overcome the alum oxide layer noted above. I also suspect the anti seize mainly fills the microscopic gaps in the thread interface, reducing the area electrolysis can occur easily and any space for any water to accumulate. Any OEM plug plated coating of the plug that reduces the electrical electrolysis potential between the two items has to be a plus.

Ok, maybe not a diamond, but its shiny.

Well thanks everyone, I learned a lot here as usual.

My original concern was to insure the plugs had a good electrical ground. A lot of baked-on crap
on the threads is not good for conductivity.

The points about thread seizing and about heat conductivity are enlightening too.

IMO anti-seize is one of those cases where less is more. I honestly believe I could dip a Q-tip one time in anti-seize, paint my entire car with it and still have enough to do all eight plugs. Plus have it all over me!

I have worked at several new car dealers and have seen every OE used brand seize installed in the factory (assumedly to factory recommendations) in the threads if left in too long, Champion, Bosche, NGK, Denso... The anti seize not only provides lube when its time to remove it it also fills the voids to keep those combustion byproducts out, I have never pulled a spark plug with anti seize on it that was seized in the hole.