Windage Tray w/ a Girdle?

Quick question. Building a 470. Primarily a track motor. Ordering a girdle. Do I still need to mess with a windage tray? Planning to use a 7qt pan and probably spinning the motor to 6700-7000 at the stripe.

no the purpose of the windage tray is keep the oil in the pan from whipping up and foaming from the crank rotation. having a girdle sandwiched in there and deep 7 qt pan, the oil should be far enough away that it won't have any whipping. if you're really serious add a crank scraper.

The most important thing you can do is oil control. Get a good oil pan with baffles to keep the oil around the pickup. Most damaged engines are from loss of oil at the pickup. The windage tray may help the oil from foaming and the girdles that bolt to the pan rails are worthless. The windage tray and girdle are my opinions. But a good oil pan with oil control is fact. from my experience's and seeing other engine failures. The 470 is an excellent combo, good luck with it.

I will definitely look into a good pan. Thanks. Planning to go with a single line external setup. I’m going to skip the windage tray deal.

Why are you buying and using a girdle on a BB Mopar?
I would use that money to buy a good block instead of trying to patch a stock block

Why the external line, is your pickup boss messed up? Not worth the headache, definitely not required for those RPMs based on my experience.




$450 vs $6500 + machining? Hmmmmm.

I could certainly skip the external line. I think I have a cover but I'm all for simple and reliable. Just don't want to have an issue at the top end when it's pushing 7k at the stripe.

I use to shift my pump gas 400 stoker motor(518 C.I., 727 HP at 7300 RPM) at or above 7000+ RPM on every run, 1000s of them with a stock Mopar 1970/71 440 6 pack B&E oil pan (6 quarts in the pan, one in the filter) with the stock 3/8 inch internal oil pickup
I did add one of my home made crankshafts scrapers with a stock OEM Mopar windage tray
I did use a set of Mopar brand Ductile iron main caps (no longer available now ) with ARP main studs and I had the #4 cam journal groove all the way around the oil hole to oil the rockers full time to help cool the valve springs, I ran a Comp Cams custom grind solid roller cam with PAC valve springs with right at 275 Lbs. on the seat s and around 650 Lbs. opened at .700 net lift. That motor and car exceeded my expectations by a bunch 10.001 at 134.6+ MPH corked up with the full 3 inch exhaust and air cleaner on weighing 3450 Lbs. with me in it running Oregon 91 octane pump swill, non ethanol back then
All the main girdles I've seen do nothing to fix the main webbing weakness, they(stock blocks) still crack with them on between the main webbing and the bottom of the cylinders

I have a windage tray, a Hughes stud girdle and a 7 qt Milodon 30930 pan... it's hard to keep it from leaking somewhere.
Thinking of removing the girdle (I'm making less than 600 hp). But I also want to add a small (less than 150) shot of nitrous.
Does the girdle not help at all?

The only help I can see with most of them is it holds the main studs from moving front to back, not much else help I can see
It does lighten the owners wallet a little also Just Kidding unless the owner is the driver also
AKA at under 650 HP you should be good with good main caps and main studs

Even w/ a girdle, I'd still use a windage tray. As limited as the BB Mopar is w/ oil pans to control windage, it needs all the help it can get. I don't see the thickness of the girdle helping all that much.

I have one on mine but having problems attaching pics, even with "Attachment Manager"

Girdle does nothing for oil control!

A while back,someone made a BB girdle that, looked oversized or poorly made. Had one on a BB that I was building. Assembled the motor and off to the dyno. Motor made about 550HP in those days. Pulled the oil pan and forgot to replace the girdle. Lost 15+/-HP. I made about about 5 to 8 passes before the pan came off. After some head scratching, and oil filter change, got back 12HP. Discovered that I never added the quart or so of oil from the filter change. Assumed that the girdle had some type of scraping effect.

You forgot to reinstall the girdle? Or forgot to reinstall the windage tray?

Forgot to install girdle. There was some weeping either at the pan or the girdle. The flange to the pan was straight so I opted for the girdle removal.

Anyone with 1/4-20 pan rail bolts?
Easy upgrade is to 8mm X 1.25mm, substantial increase in X-sectional area and 98% thread match.

8mm and 5/16 are similar in size.

Agreeing with a fact, intellectual rascal you are.

Who? Me?

I was going to respond, but since the answer is math I will be accused of something.

8/25.4= .31496
5/16= .3125

18tpi= .0555 pitch
1.25mm= .0492 pitch

That is rudimentary enough that you wouldn't annoy everyone with the "look at me" antics

I ran both my 451 and 472 to 7k with a 3/8 pickup, never a single problem or pressure issue.

Girdle stops the studs from flagpole-ing and sending vibration up through the main webs. It's strength lies in it's horizontal rigidity not it's rotational resistance, that's why they don't need to be overly thick. I don't think I'd ever build another motor without one, even with a street deal.

That’s great to know. Thanks. I ordered the girdle so I can get the block to the machine shop. Will plan on adding a windage tray as well.