Aluminum Blocks and 440 Source Cranks

All,
Been an awfully LONG time since i've been on here but was chatting with a friend who's adamant he needs to run a 6k dollar aluminum block on the street and wanted to get some feedback from the guru's on this as maybe i'm completely off-base on this nowadays and gave him bad information. The other issue is he wants to run a 440 Source crank and also wondered what the general concensus is on those these days. I can recall years ago that their reputation was less than stellar. I guess my feeling is that if I'm hell bent on running a 6k aluminum block on the street, I'm going to run Callies, Kellogg etc. Am i completely off base here? :-)

Nothing wrong with a 440Source crank...We have a ton of them in street cars and race cars....zero issues with their rotating assemblies either..

Most of the bad rap is from China haters who continuously overexaggerate a minor issue. However, I can't help wonder why you'd want to put a budget crank in a premium block !!!

What makes a China hater:
1. has a job
2. pays taxes
3. does not get his political views from CNN

I’m with you !

Tell your buddy he should at a minimum be using Molnar
crank and rods in his $6k block. Only a couple hundred bucks
more, nicer stuff and better resale

It's how I roll

This....Everyday and twice on Sundays!

Think of other less expensive equivalents...........would you have your heads ported and run stock springs ?
Adapter and dominator on an iron intake ?
Cast pistons and Carillo rods ?
The cool factor of an aluminum block is way up there.
But if you are willing to open up the vault , keep it open.
Hell , I don't even skimp on gaskets.
There are better off shore options , as mentioned.
But pairing the best with the marginal just baffles me.

Crankshafts are a minor issue.
Funding the second largest blue water Navy is another matter entirely.
I honestly think that we are buying the rope to hang ourselves.
And I don't have money falling out of every orifice by any means.
I do get saving a few bucks where it makes sense.
This doesn't make any sense at all.

If he wants to spend 6 large for a block and fill it with 440 Source parts, [censored] it, it's his money All of it should be sent to a reliable machine shop to be checked and corrected as necessary.

All the crank has to do is match the stress level it will live with. Its a long stretch from a small port torque build to B1 heads and 8000 rpm. Or a blown app.

I been 162MPH in the 1/8 with this exact combo ha ha ha ha. Turn it 7500 every pass.


Save your $$$$ for rods and pistons.

I need some sponsorship from 440Source lol

Having used quite a few 440 source cranks I have never had any failures making up to over 800 hp in a few.
The problem is the machining. having to send them out to get skinned to get bearing clearances corrected and snout clearanced so dampner had correct press fit is the issue. so you take what you spend to fix you could buy a better machined crank . Never had any issues with a molnar.

Molnar cranks, Eagle, Scat, and several others are ALL from China. And I would guess from the same supplier. So just take your pick.

That is what I was thinking.
I am fine with 440source stuff in a mild street build on a budget. Or even a 650 hp bracket motor...

Yup, about the same cost after paying for "adjustments"

I'll just leave this here for 440Source to see

From the one's I've seen, the finish machining differs from brand to brand, even though they are all very similar (same?) forgings from overseas.
I've done engines w/ Scat, Callies cheaper line Comp Star series, K1, and Molnar products and they needed nothing but balancing to be used.
Eagle, on the other hand, needs some machining before being installed.
I've never used any of 440 source's bottom end components.

I feel better buying something new that doesn't need to be "rebuilt" first.

I bought a older used KB top fuel 4.500 stroke crank with Mopar rod journals that is fully counterweighted, it had 4 cracks in it so I sent it to David at Marine Crankshafts (714-549-2388) to have them grind the cracks out and weld it back up and make it reusable. I'm going to use it in my new KB 4.500 bore wedge block to see if I can make 800+HP on pump gas with a set of B1 heads
On your deal how hard are you going to stress this new motor? More stress needs better parts

Thanks for the input fellas! Hopefully he can compile your thoughts to good use.

If I was spending $6k, I’d run a Bryant crankshaft..

Well then you would be spending almost 10k.LOL Sorry just saying...

I guess I am a little surprised by the hate for 440Source stuff. We have not had one failure, or one assembly issue with their stuff to date. We have had all kinds of assembly issues with said $6000 blocks though...And I can say, if it wasn't for 440Source $2200 stroker kits, I would not be racing. I would not be able to afford it..... Is a $3400 Bryant billet crank better, you bet your a$$ it is. Its also a 12 week wait last I checked before the Wuhun thing. Would I run a 440Source stroker kit in an after market $6k block, typically, yes I would up to around 850hp depending on the application....Would I spin it to the moon, hell no. It depends on the application.

I too do not like the idea of my money going to foreign stuff either, but I dare you to buy USA stuff all the way around.... You wouldn't be watching TV or using a cell phone or even have a way to reheat food if you truly avoided it. All your appliances, and electronics are pretty much from over seas.

I stop at buying foreign cars, but even some USA promoted domestic cars are made over seas rather than here...You all are technically driving Fiats aren't you? It might say Dodge or Ram on it, but it is made by a foreign company...I have not kept up on the content from Fiat, but realistically its tiresome to keep track of now a days, and some foreign cars are more US made than US cars....You really have to research it.

I digress too far....
We like the 440Source stuff, and stand behind their stroker products. I would be the first to tell you otherwise.

Q: What is the difference between a center counter weighted crank and a regular crank? Why are not all cranks center counter weighted?

I bought an all new 540 shortblock (built for truck pulling) with lots of good parts including a Mega Block and Callies crank..but for some reason they opted for Eagle rods
Still deciding on which rods to put in, and who will do it.

My intent is not to bash any one with this post. Just the facts! I still do buy stuff from 440 Source. I am actually expecting a delivery tomorrow. However, I will be thinking long and hard as to what crank to put in my next build or the Aluminum block that I have for a future build.

I purchased 3 - 440 Source stroker kits in 2007, All three were the same kit, 4.250 stroke crank with 6.535 rods. One of the kits went in my street car. That motor has very few miles on if but is still running fine. The other two were put into race engines. Both these engines consisted of stock 400, 230 casting blocks with the Chenoworth 3/8 thick main girdles that dynoed 750 hp plus. Mine had aftermarket BRC aluminum main caps and the other had aftermarket billet steel caps. The crank in my engine broke on run number 299. The crank in the other engine broke between run 340 and 360. Both of the cranks broke just behind the 7/8 rod journal. Actually you could almost interchange the pieces between the two. In my case the rest of the engine looked absolutely mint. The other rod bearings and the first three main bearings looked perfect.

As was mentioned in an earlier post. These parts have made having a 500 inch motor attainable for the masses. If it was my choice I would always try to purchase some thing made in the USA or Canada. However, the cost verses the quality is just not there. It is obvious that certain products are substantially better however I struggle with the cost being anywhere from 4 to 10 times the cost.

Maybe one day I will be able to post a picture on this site! LOL,

BINGO GIVE THAT MAN A PRIZE!

In my case I had already purchased three 400 blocks, none of which would pass sonic checks for the 4.375 bore I wanted for my stroker kit. I wound up with a 440source kit in an Indymax block. No complaints.