Starting from zero - building small block stroker ignition

I don't have anything so I will need a complete compatible system so I am looking for recommendations on distributor, ignition module, wires etc. Also, I will be using a transbrake

This is a street/grudge race '70 Duster

Thanks !

If you don't have anything build a Gen III Hemi

Nooo I have engine mapped out just no ignition. I had thought about the G3 but lost interest real quick!

Lots of MSD 7AL3’s out there for sale and they work great. I use them in al my race cars. MSD Blaster coil, and I usually use ultra 40 plug wires. Lots of guys switching to digital or Grid systems

Ohhh MSD distributor too

Ahh Ok gotcha.

The MSD stuff seems to be the go to for most people. Depending on your budget, you could go with the 7AL-3, if there is more in your budget, the Power Grid system. I'd run a crank trigger as well.

For my street/strip small block I run a MSD distributor and a MSD Digital 6 ignition box.

When you say "grudge" car, I assume it has a power adder?

I use an old analog 6AL with the adjustable timing control box added and a dial rev limiter hooked to a recurved stock distributor.

Thinking about upgrading to a 7AL3, though....

Yes, I will be adding nitrous and this is my first experience with a transbrake and I’m trying to figure out how to make all that work.

Something like this to control you nitrous and T-brake might be a good idea.

https://leashelectronics.com/products/single-stage-nitrous-board

I don't run any MSD stuff anymore but I would buy the baddest box you can afford. Most power adder stuff grows to more and more power and you might as well avoid buying twice.

Go as crazy as you want to go, it’s only money

I’m finding out adding the transbrake is whole new multifaceted element. A lot different from foot braking with throttle activated nitrous micro switch.

That’s something serious right there !

Don't buy any of the combination street and strip MSD boxes for your deal, buy race only
Once you get bit by the power bug you will find out there is never to much power, just like never having to much money, sex, traction HP and on and on
Another thing to remember is on the spark plug gap, you may need to close it up some as the power level increases and the coil wire and spark plug wires won't live as long either due to the ignition making more energy to make the spark jump across the plug gaps on power adder motors
Speed cost money, how fast do YOU want to GO

Big power w/ nitrous...get the MSD grid system if you can afford it. If you need a little more of a budget friendly option, get the MSD 6AL-2 programmable (6530). That's what I did.
For distributors I like the MSD pro billets, locked out, and use a crank trigger.

I also strongly recommend the Leash nitrous controller and their wiring board. Great working simple setup.

That one little box on the left replaced the 3 boxes on the right.

I use the Leash single stage board and it works great! It made wiring up the nitrous system super simple.

The part number is helpful ! After doing some reading I though the MSD 6AL-2 64213 would have been fine but I think the 6530 is a better choice

I agree but I'm aiming to strike a balance between what I think I need and what I will actually use. Like I would like to think I will stack a two stage kit on this thing and let it rock but the reality is I may never shoot more than a single 200 to it

Most are spraying one big kit and using a progressive to control it. Less complicated than multiple systems.

https://www.skspeed.com/msd-9254-ig...distributor-wires-coil-chrysler-273-360/ is the kit I got and the cheapest I've found. Only bad part is it doesn't come with a crank trigger kit. It works well for the money, wired right into all my stuff. Really fought back and forth with either the Grid or the programmable 6. If I was going crazy with my motor or messing with a two step a lot, I would have gone with the Grid. For all I need, even with nitrous, the programmable 6 works just fine. The MSD 7 is a good box, but I've had to repair way too many through the years and fight with some crazy cut and spliced in stuff to go with the 7. If you do decide to go with any programmable, make sure it's mounted somewhere you can get to it easily to plug into and a laptop with a serial port to make life easy.

The grid is nice, but for what I plan on doing...the 6530 should be fine for me.

That's where I'm leaning - progressive bc i believe it will be easier to control in a grudge race

On your engine I would talk to Brett Miller if you want big power

Monte Smith told me years ago to use a Holley Ecu. Even with a Carb. and now thats what i have. IF you think about it the Holley ECU you can use coil on plug, and have data logging as well as a great nitrous controller. The possiblities really are endless. You can control anything and with a nitrous car on the street you will want a lot of control. You can program dump valves and have crazy accurate control over timing with no fear of rotor phase etc. ITs the best you can get, and it condenses everthing into one unit. No seperate nitrous controller, data logger and ignition. PLUS you get free software updates from Holley. The new V6 has some awsome features for nitrous contol and the dump valves. Take a look and youll see how in th long run it will be way worth it.

I have the Holley for my injection but its the V4... I might have to update to the V6

Which Holley ECU are you referring to ?

For what he is doing I imagine it is a Dominator ECU.

In 2015 I ran my MS3 EFI ECU for my ignition but still ran a carb. Got lots of strange looks and lots of questions about coil on plug with a carb.

I have to admit I need to do some better research abs the reason why I asked before I bought anything. This is some great info!

Yes holley dominator ECU . I have coil on plug . And since you can progress 8’stages , I’m progressing nitrous and fuel independently. This allowed me to get rid of the early leannspike and picked up the 60’

It might seem like a big investment at first , but you don’t need a data logger ( at least 900.00 ) or a good progressive controller (500.00 to 2000.00) so you getting both of those along with a great ignition and the ability to update to fuel inj later

I can answer all your questions and provide you with whatever you want. The Holley is the best system to use today for the reasons already stated. I remote tune cars every day, literally, (I tune on four different systems), and the Holley usually comes out on top without adding third party products. Check out my website fastmanefi.com and for sure if you're on Facebook, because that's where I post my recent tunes almost every day.

n20mstr was kind enough to give me some info through messenger and I gotta say the technology being applied to these systems is more involved and intimating than I imagined. I will sure check out your social media !

It’s a lot of technology but it’s user friendly . I can do it anyone can!

I would look into ICE Ignition, they are made in Austalia but bad ass for sure.

https://www.iceignition.com/

If I was building a grudge car this is the one box I would use, It would replace your ignition box, 2/3 step, launch retard, your delay box, your bump box, your boost controller, your nitrous controller (wet or dry) allows you to run duel fuel with a cheap GM sensor. Oh and it’s a killer data recorder, if you need a gauges/dash then a $125 android tablet. I am sure I am forgetting a few things, but one thing for sure it has a steep learning curve. Oh one more thing, it has traction control.

I am a big MS3 fan myself. I have run one of the DIYAutotune kits that required assembly(MS3X) for 5 years now and it has been awesome. I like the look of the Holley stuff and the software seems pretty nice but I have thousands of dollars less into this than I would have spent for a Dominator ECU.

Thank you for this !

Just chiming in with everyone else. From scratch carbs, with power adder, I'd do the msd CNP with a grid controller for the brain. No more cap, rotor and phase issues. Jerk as much timing as you please without any concern of lighting the wrong hole. Also selectable ignition energy output from just over normal grid to just over 600 mj. That system will light anything you put on it.