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Foot Brake

Posted By: dart_73_br

Foot Brake - 06/16/20 05:26 PM

Hello guys,

I'm not sure how many of you are footbraking but my car drags the front after 2200rpm. My converter flashes at 3600rpm.

My next engine build will be a boosted small block so I need to build some boost from the line.

I was thinking in integrating second set of rear calipers to help me hold the car with separated fluid system and attach it to a line lock/2-step so when I launch it will be released (kind of drift hydrobrake+line lock).

What do you think? Want to hear from you.


Thanks,
Posted By: Bad340fish

Re: Foot Brake - 06/16/20 05:39 PM

You might re evaluate your braking system before you go crazy adding stuff. My car has wilwood discs front and rearwith a dr diff master cylinder and pushing the fronts has never been a worry.
Posted By: FlyFish

Re: Foot Brake - 06/16/20 05:56 PM

All you need is a looser converter (smaller). My 408 small block with an 8" converter will sit still at the tree @ 3000rpm, no problem......or you can go to the dark side and get a trans brake.
Posted By: cudaman1969

Re: Foot Brake - 06/16/20 07:12 PM

Not sure exactly what you’re asking but if you’re pushing the tires thru the lights you need a converter, two step, trans brake or any combination of the three. One other option is the fluid limiter into the converter, there’s a company around here who makes it. Basically it spins up like an 8” till the fluid returns (adjustable) kinda like a clutch
Posted By: B3422W5

Re: Foot Brake - 06/16/20 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by cudaman1969
Not sure exactly what you’re asking but if you’re pushing the tires thru the lights you need a converter, two step, trans brake or any combination of the three. One other option is the fluid limiter into the converter, there’s a company around here who makes it. Basically it spins up like an 8” till the fluid returns (adjustable) kinda like a clutch


Other thought is to just leave at a lower rpm, so you dont have to worry about it
Of all the cars, convertors, etc i have had over the years, cant say as the rpm i left at ever had an effect on a cars’s ET that i can remember.
My current car i leave at 2000. Not for any reason other than its easier to see the rpm needle At 2k than it would be at 1800, or 24, or 2800 etc. Big mark on tach at 2,000. Makes it easier to be consistent, repeatable.
I have tried leaving at different places, but regards ET, no difference.
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: Foot Brake - 06/17/20 12:19 AM

Adding boost will increase the stall of the converter ,but that won't help you now whiney
You may have to try adding more brakes on the back to help hold it work
My old pump gas Duster with the custom built 10 inch converter would push the locked up front 165x15 inch radials VW tires through the lights at 2300 RPM whiney
I broke that converter and put in a T/A 8 inch race Hemi SS type converter and it went .2 ET quicker in the 1/8 mile and almost 2 MPH faster shock Way easier to drive at the track and on the street up
Being in Brazil your facing a lot more problems in dealing with race parts made here in the U.S.A. than we do. Good converters are a great help in making the cars faster and better.
Bad converters are worthless, a total waste of money and your time on changing them, been there, done that puke whiney shruggy
Don't buy a cheap converter or used "good race converter" unless you know it will work in your car like you want it to twocents"
Posted By: dart_73_br

Re: Foot Brake - 06/17/20 06:24 AM

Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
Adding boost will increase the stall of the converter ,but that won't help you now whiney
You may have to try adding more brakes on the back to help hold it work
My old pump gas Duster with the custom built 10 inch converter would push the locked up front 165x15 inch radials VW tires through the lights at 2300 RPM whiney
I broke that converter and put in a T/A 8 inch race Hemi SS type converter and it went .2 ET quicker in the 1/8 mile and almost 2 MPH faster shock Way easier to drive at the track and on the street up
Being in Brazil your facing a lot more problems in dealing with race parts made here in the U.S.A. than we do. Good converters are a great help in making the cars faster and better.
Bad converters are worthless, a total waste of money and your time on changing them, been there, done that puke whiney shruggy
Don't buy a cheap converter or used "good race converter" unless you know it will work in your car like you want it to twocents"


Yes Cab, I think you've got the point perfectly. I have to play with whatever I have in hands. Changing converter / adding a transbrake it´s not an option now.

Prior to this turbo engine that I'm building, engine had some dry nitrous on it. Perhaps I can also use a small shot of nitrous on the first 3 seconds just after the low RPM launch to help 60" and to help spooling the big turbo quicker.

I know that´s a band-aid but it´s already installed.


BR,
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