B1 Intake options?

OK, other threads and my engine has me thinking, what options are out there for B1 intakes? Im told mine is holding my combination back. The runners are too long with the spacers, so whats the option? Im thinking cut it down the middle, bolt it to the heads and fill in the plenum? Has anyone modified a B1 intake? Also why is it SO thick and heavy? LOL
I have seen Indy intakes modified to fit on a B1 , any one do that? and did it help compared to the B1 intake?
Just looking to see what others have done, im not the normal bracket racer, and my combination is tailored to a lot of nitrous or whatever it takes to make 1500+ ?

I know Best Machine has used the Indy 440-3x with adapters on B1 engines. I did an FBS single dominator manifold once. Its basically a B1 manifold with the flange end altered to fit FBS heads. Cut the floor out and raised it in the plenum area and reduced the runner taper a bit. Had 121% VE on the dyno. I'm not familiar with the cubic inch of your engine. Alot depends on that and the rpm you run it to. Being a nitrous motor I don't know that the manifold is a problem.

my reason is , my engine stops making power at 7300 on the dyno. the engine is 530" .So far when racing it, i shift at 7400 and have crossed at 7900 and recently with a converter change 7700. Im thinking im leaving power on the table here. Then again it was only dyno NA, not with nitrous. I know what Chuck has done with those intakes and that is mostly on NA motors. I have never asked Chuck what he has done on nitrous engines. WHen i asked why the power stopped at 7300, i was told Intake and Headers, they both too long. My headers are a copy of the proparts and are stepped 2 1/8 2 1/4 with a 4" collector. The problem is some of the tubes are almost 36-38" long. THey should be 25" long.
I also do have to comply to a "cast intake" rule, racing in Ultra Street.

Does your car have a race pack or other data reading and storage? If so when does the RPM rate per second start to slow down in 2nd gear?
if it isn't below 7900 RPM you may be short shifting it now.
A engine dyno using a water break is nothing like the motor has to deal with in the car, I learned a long time ago to use the dyno to get the motor close on timing ad jetting and finish the tuning in the car based off of the spark plugs and time slips.
I change the shift RPM by 300 RPM last year in my S/P car from 7000 RPM up to 7300 RPM, the car ran 8.886 at 148.3 MPH having it shift at 7000 RPM, Powerglide 5300 stall nine inch converter with a Biondo 400 box and Biondo air shifter, moving the shift RPM up to 7300 RPM made my car run 8.886 at 150.6 MPH 45 minutes later
I would try shifting yours higher in 200 to 500 RPM increments to find the best shift RPM with your combination

since i have nothing but time, im going to start looking at the racepak for that !
i am racing 1/8 mile and right now need to find a lot of ET in the 60 and 330, BUT more mph will always help !
I do have an elctric shifter so moving the shift up 200rpm at a time is easy and precise. Thanks

Getting back to your B1 intake question if you were to use an Indy intake would you use a low deck version and the B1 spacers to make that a possibility

I don't know what equipment you have access to Tony, but you could cut the intake in half and weld flanges on so it bolts together in the centre. There is a bunch of material in the plenum of those intakes, you could get some material out of there, while you are there (if you haven't already).

Those castings could certainly go on a diet, someone should do a lightening program for them, not that many people would use it.

I did that on my W-9 intake

Tony are you still using the stock cam core size?

Tony,

We run indy intakes on B1's with good success by utilizing the adapters from Best.

Casey FJ

yes stock cam core

When I bought Steffs Challenger and was running it NA, we had the same issues you are having. I had several conversations with some in the know guys and the general consensus was that the stock cam core was inducing a ton of valve train instability. With the weight of the pushrods 9/16 and the valve and the spring pressure needed with 7500=8000 RPM the cam was twisting I did verify after 20 runs 8200 rpm trap the cam was a pretzel. The single biggest upgrade according to Bishoff and Alan Johnson was to step up to a 55mm cam core. They both told me the B1 intake was not the thing holding the combo back. I never got a chance to put the 55mm cam in I bought it and just gave up on the program. Thought I would pass this info along.

Im an NA guy so cant directly answer your question there. With the spacers it is a LONG runner for sure, but is it the reason the thing wont RPM, I would question that.But I agree that if you want to see more RPM you will likely needed to step up to a bigger core. Not knowing exactly what you are running for spring pressure, pushrods etc but I would imagine you could see a good improvement from that aspect alone.

Couple questions. Stainless or Ti intakes? Is the rpm limit in the car on HP, while spraying it or both? I agree that a larger cam core would help. The 557 B1 I had would not pull past about 7600 till I put Ti intakes in it. That was HP only.

I have been told numerous times by multiple engine builders/shops that they can pick up 3-500 RPM simply by stabbing Ti valves in an engine. All of them advised me to run Ti intakes and exhaust valves if possible on my new engine. I was also told to keep the spring pressure under 950 over the nose with the stock cam core. My new cam is about .800 net lift and I will spring it with a 1.520 OD double that is about 350/950 and go from there. Following along with the advice I was given above we are trying to avoid a giant 1.625+ spring with valvetrain weight savings in mind.

Shiloh would be a good guy to talk to about this.

Titanium valves would also be a good addition but Id bet you already have them, at least on the intake side. If you are spraying a lot might be other/better options on the exhast side. A B1 intake valve is like the intake, big and heavy and most are replaced with titanium early on.

Yes TI intakes , Inconel EX
It will RPM, just doesnt make much more power past 7300, at least NA on the dyno.
In the car its been 7900+ at the stripe with a loose converter , with the tighter conv its crossing at 7700 and a lot less % slippage same MPH. Now it can and is getting more Nitrous jet, but i am wondering what can be done to make more power above 7300 NA

It made the most HP at 7300 on the dyno, after 7300 it really not picking up a lot of HP. It does RPM past 7300.
It has TI intake valves
No motor passes , it gets N20 every pass.

thanks for the advice

I agree that Ti is easier on the valve train. Consider the valve train being stable at the RPM of max power. I don't see any reason that it'll make power at a higher RPM. If the port/cam/intake combo is done at a given RPM, its done. Thoughts?
Doug

I agree with this. Possible the CSA is not large enough and the ports are going supersonic. Are the ports in the spacers angled correctly or straight through?

Getting slightly off topic, has anyone noticed any noticable core shift of the inner core? A friends intake, the inside is off by about 5-6mm, I suggested that maybe we plug and re-drill the intake bolt pattern, so it it's centralised to the inside of the intake.

Did it fall off significantly after peak power? I would not get to hung up on the NA power numbers honestly. I assume it has a "nitrous" friendly grind on the camshaft. Could just be the exhaust timing event is creating some reversion in the intake running NA. But honestly I am not sure if it has a dedicated nitrous grind in it that I would get to concerned about those NA numbers.

I have experienced this more than once and in fact my Predator I currently run did the same thing on the dyno. In fact reversion was so bad it was pushing out the plenum top on the dyno when we ran it and it peaked really low at 7100rpm, for what it is. We knew the cam was not optimal for sure but were surprised at the issues, still made good power just was very unhappy above peak. A cam change/regrind to a bit more NA friendly piece netted me 37 average HP but only 14 peak at 400 more RPM. I still think the cam is holding my junk back but will address it at the freshen up to something more well suited for my deal.

Yes , the cam is VERY nitrous friendly.
My plan right now is to max out the plate, then switch over to a direct port. (the direct port rule was just allowed last year.) THis is why i dont want to get my intake flowed etc, if its going to get cut up etc. But hey thats all technically illegal so.....LOL
Thanks for the info\help Al and everyone else. I know this is not a popular topic on here

I am certainly not a nitrous guru but have seen some Mopar nitrous cams that seem to have some crazy exhaust timing events. My Predator is the third time I have had a mopar on the dyno with a nitrous cam that just kinds fell flat and quickly after peak. Just wonder if that's maybe some of it.