degree cam

is there a diff in degreeing at the lobe VS at the lifter,BB solid roller.

“At the cam” would be with a lifter, or some sort of tool that simulates the lifter.

Any numbers you got by trying to use the end of an indicator on the lobe would be pretty much useless.

I have been degreeing cams for a long time, and when this tool came out, I bought one. It works very well, makes the process a lot easier, and you don't have to worry about a magnetic base slipping or the lifter hanging in the bore. It expands in the lifter bore, and is spring loaded, works super.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Camshaft-Dial-Indicator,9868.html?sku=58666838&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8bXX4_vT6AIVE8JkCh1eHQCXEAQYAiABEgIkcvD_BwE

^^^ it says fits gm/furd lifter .842"/.875" bores. I'm assuming it expands enough to fit ours

This one fits Mopars.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66843

Thank you John

You are very welcome. I have both of them as I degree in Cams for some Chevy and ford friends and you will love it. It makes the job so much easier.

John it sounds like a must have tool (ain't they all!)

Man I love tools. I don’t use them all but I gotta have them. Next big purchase if cronaviras doesn’t get me will be Harbor Freights big horizontal metal saw. I’ve had my eye on it. Man I’m addicted to buying LED flashlights.

thanks,

Does that fit in a small block with the dial indicator on it???? Seems like it’s awful long and the indicator would hit the block.

Yep it works great on small blocks. I just did my new 408 a few weeks ago

I use to always check the lobe separation angle at the retainers, same on verifying cam timing until one of the racer reps at Comp said that is not the way they want you to check the cam lobes due to rocker arm ratio affecting the cam timing, which it does
I now check the cam timing on the lifters (and adjust the cam timing as needed) and verify the cam advance on the lobe centers by verifying the intake lobe center first and then both of them after I get the intake lobe where I want it by checking them at the retainers and then verifying the exhaust lobe separation angle to make sure the lobe separation angle is ground correctly on every cam If the cam is ground on a 108 LSA and it is installed at 4 degrees advance so the intake lobe center is at 104 degree after top dead center the exhaust lobe max lift, lobe center, should be at 112 degrees BTDC If it isn't like that the cam LSA is ground wrong.
I've had several custom ground "racing" cam that where not ground on the LSA that was on the cam card
I also check the LSA at .050, .100 and .200 before and after max lift on all the lobes I check If the lobes are within one degree of each other at all three checking LSA heights I use that cam
You can't be to careful

I love that pointer.

LOL. That pointer is custom made and has more cam degree credits than I care to divulge. LOL

I have three pointers like that one made out of coat hangars, works good, last a long time
Adjustable too

I'm selling Timing wheel pointers just like that one for $25 and I'll throw in a roll of TP.

the way things are goin it might be worth it.

Yes, that lifter bore tool is a must have if you do any cam degreeing IMO. Bought one years ago, love it.

me too ! but i wished hobo fright would offer a 14" metal cutting cold saw.
i have looked on line at a bunch, and i'm not real satisfied with what i see, no matter what the cost is.
well, that is excluding those for $800.00 plus.

i'm almost tempted to build one, but i have too many projects now as it is !

Does anyone know of one of these that fits a .937 lifter bore?

I have tried one of the Proform "universal" checkers and it does not fit well.

Thanks!

I have one of the proform universal checkers, you have to expand it to its maximum but it has worked well for me. expand it slowly and rock it a little, until it gets tight in the lifter bore.
I am just so used to, that everything is built to fit a Chevy, and you have to fiddle with it for a Mopar.

On my bushed R3 block if the checker is loose enough go in its very wobbly at the bottom with no way to tighten it up.

Made my own 25 years ago for solid lifter and roller.Home made piston stop for when the head is on