Vr1 racing oil

Switching oil brands due to reduced zinc. Thought I'd try the Valvoline vr1.
I seem to recall that at one time there were 2 different VR1 oils. One for off road only and the other was what was readily available in the parts stores. I think they had 2 different color bottles. Is this still the case or is there just the one now? If they still make 2 versions which would you use in a street/strip type application that has a flat tappet cam and is probably only driven a couple hundred miles a year?

Thanks

hi cuda , I like the silver bottle VR1 10W-30 part # VV205 or #822388 at napa . Or if you need the 20W-50 part #822347 . that's for reminding me to get some . I think it might even go on sale or be on sale this time of the year . ronnie

Dwayne recommended Driven HR3 15W-50 full Synthetic oil for my flat tappet cam cars

The VR1 20w-50 oil was just too thick for cold starts.

my 2 cents, Mark

Which VR1 was too thick?

Gray bottle is regular oil.

Black bottle is racing and fully synthetic.
Twice the price.

Well looks like the racing oil is a gray bottle also. So make sure you get the one that says RACING.

Menards has the vr1 grey bottles for under $5 qt, and get back 11% if you buy during the rebate times. Thats what I use now

I can only find the 20w50 at the local Menards. Does yours have the 10w30, too?

I used to run the 20w50 in my Hemi as I always had in my wedges. But after reading a number of posts here and elsewhere about the advantages of running a lighter weight oil, I tried the 10w30 and monitored my pressure. As a result, I have ran the 10w30 VR1 the last few years. So far, so good. In fact, I just ordered some fresh 10w30 from Amazon.

And with my luck, since I just ordered some, you guys should keep an eye out for a sale on it any time now.

Yes, we can get 10W-30 at our local Menard's as well as 20 W 50. Maybe if you ask they will order in some 10w30 for you.

I switched from VR1 to Driven. I can't remember if I lost 1 or 2 hydraulic cams running VR1.

There certainly are a lot of VR1 users (myself included) that have ran many, many engines with flat tappet cams and stiff springs with no failures like you experienced. Why would that be? Just good luck vs bad luck? Or is it possible that your failures were due to something other than using VR1?

Long-time VR-1 user here, absolutely NO abnormal wear evident on my hydraulic flat tappet lifters or lobes.

My 2 Cents...Joe

PS My take would be bad metallurgy or other source of failures

Why?

I don't know if the oil had anything to do with it, but when I pulled apart my pretty much stock 383 it had a failed hydraulic flat tappet cam. I used VR1 in it but the cam was in the car when I bought it. Bought it in 2008.

Built a 440 engine for the car. Hydraulic flat tappet cam failed - I do believe that improper assembly by the engine builder contributed to the failure. Put a hydraulic roller in the motor and then put the original 383 back in it with a hydraulic flat tappet cam.

Took a had look at the contents of the VR1 oil versus the Driven oil with my lubrication expert and felt more comfortable with the Driven oil. So far good luck with the Driven oil

You didn't put in the key word 'Racing' We've been down this road before and people still don't get that it has to be the Racing version. Valvoline puts VR1 on everything they make.

Found this on Valvoline site dated 11-22-2019. Notice that 10w30 has the lowest zinc and phosphorus.

Theres 2 types of VR1 Racing.

Black bottle is fully Synthetic RACING oil
Gray/Silver bottle is Conventional Dino NON Synthetic oil thus the price difference. Its very confusing.

Not really , if people would actually learn how to read the bottles , pretty self explanatory

Kind of like people posting before reading all threads on this website in GENERAL

Interesting on the VR1 10w30 Zinc Level

Now I have to learn how to read because I don’t remember it ever listed that low before , it was pretty close to that 1400 level on the CONVENTIONAL Dino

3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm

4. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
zinc = 1180 ppm
phos = 1112 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm

What is the source of this information and how old is it?
In searching the internet for info on this oil I have seen so much conflicting data that it is no wonder people would change to Gibs.

Here is the latest info I have (2018) as well as the older stuff (Synthetic and dyno-juice). Note that Valvoline now has a Pro-V Racing product line, these are absolutely the max amount of zin/phosphorous, etc...will they live on the street??? No idea...they specifically say racing application only!

However, what about the 'Valvoline™ Pro-V Racing™ Break-In Oil' combo? Even for a guy like me who's moving on to a hydraulic roller setup it seems to make sense for break-in duty...no?

Those aren't the numbers currently on Valvoline's website.
VR1 conventional: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1
VR1 synthetic: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/8213a6c1-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1
Regular conventional: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/bab4d631-93bb-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

I prefer 10W30 conventional and that's why I go with the Valvoline VR1. Heard that going to synthetic may cause leaks. Michigan spring to fall driving only, so not sure if other grades would work as well and keep the oil pressure where it is at currently. Not a mechanic by any means. Just what I've always used and kind of stuck to it, hence the conventional VR1 instead of other racing oils. Heck, first few years I owned the car I was using regular conventional until someone mentioned racing oil with higher zinc.

Those numbers are from 540 Rat's oil blog. It's a super long read breaking down his independent testing and evaluation of popular motor oils. I've been doing a lot of research on high ZDDP oils lately, because I'm considering installing a new solid flat tappet in my 440. I already have the cam, lifters, oil and break in lube. The oil is the Gibbs 15w-50"break in oil" but I was surprised to find it ranked pretty low on 540 Rats lubricity test. I'm considering sticking with VR1 because its ranked highy by 540 Rat as well as what I used when breaking in my current SFT cam. The new cam is a Howard's SFT .550 int/.555ex -252/260@..050 . I'll be using the "direct lube" lifters for added insurance. Still considering returning it in favor of the Trick flow HYD roller cam and lifters. But I hear horror stories about hydraulic rollers too..

I run 10-30 in my 440 + 6 and 20-50 in my Harley Davidson with no issue's !!!!

I switched from Vr1 to Lucas in my twin turbo hemi NPK car and the difference was startling. I use methanol for fuel and the Lucas resists methanol dilution a thousand times better. Of course for gasoline motors your results may vary.

What was the startling difference?

I run the VR1 20W-50 in my car and have been for as long as I can remember. Its all I use and I have never wiped a cam and I have never used a roller cam. I even start my engines and break the cam in on the VR1 oil. Ron

With VR1 I had to change the oil(actually vanilla milkshake) every 2 runs. With Lucas every 20.

Tell Jason to hone them blocks correctly to stop that issue

I know you are kidding, Cab, but the methanol cools the motor when idling so we idle it on the rich side.

10w30

Zinc back to 1400 ppm


https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

I heard the synthetic costs power in big motors, so I dyno tested royal purple synthetic vs Kendall gt1 organic on a 700+/- horse Hemi. The Kendall made more horsepower. So, more power, less leaks, costs less - I'll stick with conventional. But I use Valvoline vr1 now due to availability.

You got the same results I did 18 yrs ago testing straight Valvoline 30 wt. against Mobil One 5w30Wt full synthetic, ended up my Max Wedge motor was sucking oil into the intake from the valley pan

run that alky motor HOT and change much, much less often. I never see milky oil because by letting the temp get to 180 on launch and then 200+ on the return road all water and alky boil out of the oil.

Running upwards of 70 psi boost the main and rod bearings take a beating when the motor detonates.

I have heated oil with water in it in a oven up to 230F to get rid of the water, make sure and put a good fitting lid on the container your using due to the water settling to the bottom and then turning into steam bubbles when it gets close to 210 F. Those bubbles make a mess and can cause a oil fire if your not careful
Oil with alcohol in it is another thing altogether I think, maybe not