Been wanting to go EFI, found a deal I could not pass up, always wanted this set up but the price said NO WAY until this came up on Moparts, took one intake apart & started grinding for Max wedge ports, got a little done but the heat was to much, I will just have to pace myself & get done what I can,may take awhile LOL. I am SO exited to get this for the Charger
Looks like they designed it to be made into MW size.
Yes I called Hilborn before I bought it & they said the max wedge was the same casting as the 440 port. The shadowing in the picture makes it look like I did not follow the contour of the port, but I did.
Having said that, what do you expect to get by way of results (other than the known EFI benefits)?
I did a lot of EFI Individual runner intakes on Harley's back before I got sick, IR set ups & longer runner will idle MUCH better with a large cam, much better drivability, low & midrange torque is much better, I have posted this dyno sheet before , this is my old 2005 Dyna FXDWG, 94.2 cid EFI, the blue lines are with approx 8in long runner, the red lines are 24in IIRC, nothing else was change, my Charger is a street car , it is already a blast to drive , this should step it up a notch or 2, plus it will look awesome sticking out of the hood.
IR set ups & longer runner will idle MUCH better with a large cam, much better drivability, low & midrange torque is much better
I agree, but AFAIK the only stack injection nearly large enough is the Crower for BBC, which has 2.90" butterflies.
Depends on how much power you want, the set up I have flows way more than I need for the power level I am at now, 2.9 butterflies are in the 1000 + hp, I am in the low 600, street car, overdrive A/C . Hilborn does make the 3" bore, My butterflies are 2.4375,the runners are 2.5 id, do the math my intake valve is 2.14, the id of the intake seat is 1.94
The sound of my 440" Mopar all Detroit Iron engine except for the Aluminium IR Intake ....! .040" Over HP 440 Block Factory Steel Crank Pro Ported 2.08/1.74 452 Motor home heads .528" MP Solid Old Gold Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers SP/JE pistons & Rings 10:7:1 Manley Rods
On the video it breaks traction @ 55 mph <You can hear the rev Limiter soft cut the ign @ 6,300 RPM, ahh the joys of crisp digital EFI Tuning>
glad you got such a deal ! as a fellow charger owner, and having the same health problem you do, i follow your exploits. that is gonna look fantastic sticking out of your hood !
Looking forward to hearing how this all works out.
Do you have a sacrificial hood yet?
Does AMD offer one for that?
I might cut the glass cowl hood that is on the car, I have a steel cowl hood that I made & it is a short cowl type, but it is very HEAVY, probably will run without a hood at 1st till I get it all working good then make a decision, a glass flat hood would be my best choice. this is the one I made, it was not tall enough for my air filter so I got the glass one about 4 years ago.
Outerwears aren't much better than the filter itself. The only purpose they serve is a quicker cleaning - take 'em of, shake off the crud, a quick scrub with soap and water and off you go. If you want to trap the microscopic dust you have to use a filter coat spray. And then you have to regularly clean the filters to get that [censored] out of there.
I agree. The outerwears keep the big partials off the filter (mud in my case), and is just a secondary filtration. Your filter being your primary, the K&N isn't the best at that for sure. Your set up will be very cool, but a aesthetically pleasing filtration system is going to be tough.
I had to think this one out, the throttle cable & transmission throttle pressure control cable, air filters, the ram tubes will be silver when done., will paint my brackets black.
like almost every other car out there !! Besides, an efi adjusts for all that.
That it does, but it still reduces air density and therefore power.
The car has a/c, I doubt the small loss of power would be a concern. Personal experience tells me to keep everything under the hood and out of plain sight. Nothing attracts destructive morons than stuff peeking out of the hood. You never know when you're going to have to park it somewhere unattended for a while !!
like almost every other car out there !! Besides, an efi adjusts for all that.
That it does, but it still reduces air density and therefore power.
The car has a/c, I doubt the small loss of power would be a concern. Personal experience tells me to keep everything under the hood and out of plain sight. Nothing attracts destructive morons than stuff peeking out of the hood. You never know when you're going to have to park it somewhere unattended for a while !!
When I sealed the cowl hood to the carb the car ran SO much better, especially in the summer heat 100* days,, A/C ON [ drivability, power] AFR's were more stable, the length of the runners is VERY important to my combination, 24" from the back of the intake valve to the end of runner, so yes it will stick out of the hood. I have surgery tomorrow so progress will stop for awhile.
This has shown to be pretty close if the csa is close to correct from my dyno time. there are 3 pulses that can be used, Bowling's Intake Runner Computator Computation Results: Input length is 24 inches For 2nd harmonic, RPM range is from 4895 to 5940 with a pulse strength of 10 percent For 3rd harmonic, RPM range is from 3678 to 4203 with a pulse strength of 7 percent For 4th harmonic, RPM range is from 2867 to 3207 with a pulse strength of 4 percent
Been doing some tuning, if you EVER go with EFI get the Dash/tuner, hand held ECT,,,,, the one I need is only$ 800.00 YEEHAAAA :), I also had to shorten the ram tubes, it was VERY hard to drive & see LMBO,, I will now use the 3rd & 4th intake pulse for power, total runner is now 17" long.
I officially hate my hood now,a lot of hindsight AFTER the hole was cut, BUT I really had no choice. I'll get use to it maybe ,,,.to me it looks better without a hood.
I agree on the flat hood, as always its a money thing. Tuning is going ok, the Holley HP is really not the correct choice for a Hilborn set up even though that is what they sell with the injector assy, it only has 1 o2 sensor to tune the ECU, it really should have at LEAST a bank one & bank two base fuel map that the ecu runs on. when the engine heats up all those throttle blades move & changes the calibration, I hooked up my Innovate wideband through a channel on the Holley ecu so I can at least datalog both o2's side by side & can manually tune the right bank to match the left bank Holley ECU wideband. wide open throttle is not a problem, its all the very light throttle low rpm areas that are tough to tune with 8 throttles & one o2 LOL. it idles like a stock cam 440 hp, can run 1500 rpms in overdrive & lock up the converter,,,, smooth as glass. the Dominator Holley ECU has two o2 sensors but you can only pick left or right or average of the 2 sensors for the ECU to tune off of.
How does the power “feel” compared to the old combo?
Yes when it gets cooler, we have been over 100deg its BRUTAL. The but dyno says its pulling MUCH harder, even in the 100deg heat, my converter used to flash about 4200, now you nail it & its 5000. I hope the trans & or the converter are ok it does not feel like its slipping it just PULLS
Does the HP setup have a setting for the individual throttle blade system? I know my Megasquirt system has a mode for that individual throttle blades but I don't know what makes that different. What do you do for vacuum signal to the ECU? you have the cylinders all hooked together for an average or does it just read one cylinder?
I am a little surprised the HP system can't at least do some kind of modification bank to bank, how different are your readings side to side?
I feel you on the hood, when I went to a tunnel ram I went back and forth. Nobody could provide me with the measurements I needed to make sure things worked right(Hemi scoop or cowl). In the end I got a flat hood and cut a hole in it. I like the way it looks without the hood but it goes a little faster with the hood on.
Does the HP setup have a setting for the individual throttle blade system? I know my Megasquirt system has a mode for that individual throttle blades but I don't know what makes that different. What do you do for vacuum signal to the ECU? you have the cylinders all hooked together for an average or does it just read one cylinder?
I am a little surprised the HP system can't at least do some kind of modification bank to bank, how different are your readings side to side?
I feel you on the hood, when I went to a tunnel ram I went back and forth. Nobody could provide me with the measurements I needed to make sure things worked right(Hemi scoop or cowl). In the end I got a flat hood and cut a hole in it. I like the way it looks without the hood but it goes a little faster with the hood on.
The o2 reads one bank, from cold to operating temp the engine & everything grows, it causes the throttle linkage to change from side to side, in my case it causes the pass side to start running leaner the warmer it gets so I have to run that side a little richer, The HP has sequential individual cyl tuning, but as far as closed loop the pass side is on its own, so I set it up for closed loop after 1800rpm. on the vacuum there is a little manifold block that has small lines from each cyl to it.
Working on TRYING to get the car ready for the Lone Star Mopar Fest in Baytown HRP, next weekend, I REALLY hope I can make it, bad health SUCKS. Installed the Holley Dash That I got from Rich [fastman efi],, With the Indy single plane intake it had 4" vacuum in gear @ about 900 rpm, now @ 700,800 rpm it is about 9" with the Individual runner Hilborn EFI.
Working on TRYING to get the car ready for the Lone Star Mopar Fest in Baytown HRP, next weekend, I REALLY hope I can make it, bad health SUCKS. Installed the Holley Dash That I got from Rich [fastman efi],, With the Indy single plane intake it had 4" vacuum in gear @ about 900 rpm, now @ 700,800 rpm it is about 9" with the Individual runner Hilborn EFI.
[quote=csk]Working on TRYING to get the car ready for the Lone Star Mopar Fest in Baytown HRP, next weekend, I REALLY hope I can make it, bad health SUCKS. Installed the Holley Dash That I got from Rich [fastman efi],, With the Indy single plane intake it had 4" vacuum in gear @ about 900 rpm, now @ 700,800 rpm it is about 9" with the Individual runner Hilborn EFI.
Looks slow! Now come visit Arizona!
Its not as fast as your Charger but it does have A/C LOL, I would love to visit!!!!
I’m really surprised at how the IR system calmed that cam down. That’s amazing.
Where are you taking the vacuum reading from?
On the Indy, from the carb base large PCV connection, The Hilborn has 8 hoses under the throttle plates that go to a manifold block & that is where I took the reading & also where the MAP sensor gets its reading from. I also replace the fuel pump because running more pressure now, went to a Hellcat 470lph pump, it had a 255lph that was borderline on volume when running the carb, I tested the new pump & all is good on volume now.
Well I have missed three good track events because of not feeling well, BUT tonight going to do the 140ish mile round trip to Baytown, HRP, should be REALLY good air, will post results when I get home, if the Charger makes it LOL , EXITED !!!! gonna have fun no matter what
I am a little surprised the HP system can't at least do some kind of modification bank to bank, how different are your readings side to side?
The Dominator can read and tune from two O2 sensors. The HP is only one. efiexpert.com
Yep but the left only or right only, or Both together averaged out.
The technology is fast enough and sophisticated enough that it can read each pulse as it goes by the sensor and know what cylinder fired it and adjust accordingly.
Well I made it there & back, one pass, BAD multiple driver errors, car spun, went up against the rev limit for BOTH shifts, looking at the data log I need to do some AFR tuning,AFR was all over the place, needs to be driven WOT through the gears more,That was the 1st time I really hammered it, will post a video later of the pass 11.09 @ 123.4. 4050lb race weight, -750DA. but there was dew on my car & on the track high humidity ?? I need to get someone else to drive the car, I have gone WAY passed my abilities, no SNAP at all, very frustrated with myself. Thanks for the interest in my journey.
i had a hard week, and was down yesterday, so i well know how that is. i would also want to know why only one pass, but you say you are way past your abilities ? i know better than that ! plug away my man. you can do it !!
Started feeling bad & dizzy . exhausted, I knew I had a long drive,through the middle of Houston Tx at night & the traffic NEVER stops, 70ish miles home, Just driving in these conditions is tough, add the 51 year old hotrod Charger to the mix & I really had no choice but to get home.
i had a hard week, and was down yesterday, so i well know how that is. i would also want to know why only one pass, but you say you are way past your abilities ? i know better than that ! plug away my man. you can do it !!
Thanks for the encouragement , hope you are better.
at least it did not go slower LOL, & with the stack efi the engine drives on the road like a stock 440 it is amazingly tame & smooth
I have come to the conclusion that my time slip is all wrong, on my data log it shows 5900 rpm, 123mph , or the converter is junk, look at the MPH for the 1/8, 80 mph only way to know is make some more passes
I've never seen a street car or even some good half fast bracket cars pick up 50+ MPH in the last 1/8 mile 15 to 25 MPH maybe, never above 35 MPH It is time for more testing Have fun, work on the 60 ft. times first, more power will make them worst(spin more) until you get it to hook better BTW, did I say that baby has a easy 10.90 in it Probably a 10.70 or quicker
looks like good info popping up on the screen. just don't CRASH playing with yer phone !
LOL, yeah I probably should not do that, especially because I get so angry at the TEXTERS while driving , they are ALL over the place, going slow swerving, running me & others off the road, Good point there LOL
Sorry I missed this post from you Dwayne , it has 28" tires, 325-50-15, I had the rev limit set at 6500, & according to the data log it started cutting at 6400, I have been logging from the Holley ECU & it does not give the MPH, the Holley Dash can also log & it will give the MPH & just need to do some reading to learn how to log off the dash.
With the large Throttle blades, Accel pump adjustment needs a lot of tuning, & to do that it needs to be done with good traction, [engine loaded] on the street it just spins, I will go back when my friend rents the track,
well thats not to bad, I replace the bad video with a good one, you can see the oil & fuel smoke, more fuel I hope LOL. its funny how smooth the idle is, sounds like a stock 440hp
Something to remember is that if you have a misfire it will read lean on the 02 sensor. So if you have a misfire it is possible the "auto tune" will add fuel and make it overly rich(smoke).
You can see in this log the fuel goes a little rich, then goes off the scale lean, then goes off the chart rich, the color of the fuel lines are yellow & light blue, the color codes are at the top of the graph area.
Something to remember is that if you have a misfire it will read lean on the 02 sensor. So if you have a misfire it is possible the "auto tune" will add fuel and make it overly rich(smoke).
People refer to , "Off the trailer pass",, Mine is "OFF the FREEWAY pass", LOL,170 miles round trip due to LOTS of road closures GRRRRR 1st pass was the best. 11.04 @ 123.07 4100lb race weight, Did some tuning & learned what it does NOT like, I forgot to raise the rev limit & still bumped it, even in high gear. I added & pulled timing & fuel, it likes 37 total timing & so far 12.6 AFR, still no 10.99 pass, I am sure with some more tuning it could get there, BUT thinking about my combination here are some points, it is only a 9.7-1 compression, Max Wedge ports,, HEAVY pig with a 28" tall tire & 3.54 gear, I truly believe that my car needs a 4.10 or there about gear, to do much better on the ET, this is a drive it anywhere true street car DA was in the 400ish
You have 10 second speed....... but not enough speed to get it done with that 60’.
Have you tried removing those blue “socks” from the air filters?
And the “crowd” went wild!!!!
No on the pre filters, I should have, I thought about it but I ran out of energy & started getting shaky, I was done. I brought some extra stacks that have no filters, but like I said, I ran out of steam.
You have 10 second speed....... but not enough speed to get it done with that 60’.
Have you tried removing those blue “socks” from the air filters?
And the “crowd” went wild!!!!
Did you ever get to make a good pass with carb and the fuel system sorted out?
At 4100lbs...... 123mph shows 585hp. Pretty good for a true street car.
Never made another carbed pass, the best MPH carbed was 121.1 & it was not laying down like it did later on. I will try a total runner length of 23" , it is at 17" now
Hey Dwayne This program APP I use is very close to what I have found on the dyno with IR intake set ups, not every engine reacts the same [ CID, CSA of port,cam,, ect ] but my engine is close to the ones I have dynoed, that said, the runner length helps at a given RPM & hurts power at other RPMS that is not in the usable range of said length, right now my set up is 17" runner. Input length is 17 inches For 2nd harmonic, RPM range is from 6911 to 8386 with a pulse strength of 10 percent For 3rd harmonic, RPM range is from 5192 to 5934 with a pulse strength of 7 percent For 4th harmonic, RPM range is from 4048 to 4527 with a pulse strength of 4 percent --------------------------------------------- I am using the 3rd harmonic pulse right now , the 2nd pulse is above my RPM range the 4th is bellow my converter stall. --------------------------------------------------- Looking at my coverter stall on the data log, I am at 4800 rpm at the leave,,,so that means that my engine is in the bad part of the good harmonic pulse range 5192 to 5934 with a pulse strength of 7 percent. --------------------------------------------------------- Input length is 24 inches For 2nd harmonic, RPM range is from 4895 to 5940 with a pulse strength of 10 percent For 3rd harmonic, RPM range is from 3678 to 4203 with a pulse strength of 7 percent For 4th harmonic, RPM range is from 2867 to 3207 with a pulse strength of 4 percent ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Now going to a Total runner length of 24" will move the power making benefit of the runner to the 2nd harmonic pulse of 4895 to 5940 with a pulse strength of 10 percent, so by doing that should put my engine in the power range on the leave at 4800 rpm & my trap rpm of about 6k fits with the 17" AND 24" runner, also the pulse is stronger on the 2nd harmonic.
So the longer runner should not hurt the big end at all. I had cut my runners to 17" so I could see over the air filters to drive on the street,.
CSK this is a cool project! Thanks for sharing. Keep on truckin'
Thank you HardcoreB, & everyone else also.
Made me some 12in ram tubes for my Hilborn EFI, bought some bulk 2 1/2 inch stainless steel thin wall pipe, save myself about 300 bucks, these longer runners should get the car to leave harder & HOPEFULLY get a better 60 foot ,. I even made the bell end, using a bearing press & one of my old drum brake hubs, had the perfect taper to make the bell.
Got the air cleaners on they slip down about halfway to where the runner goes about halfway through the air filter, it'll work great for the street, when I do go back to the dragstrip, all I have to do is just take off the little aluminum top off of each filter and will be wide open
great tip on making the bell end ! that's one reason i have so many small chunks of "stuff" scattered around. you never know when something needs a fabbing "shape". you may only use it once, but when you do, and it's successful, [as in your bell end fabrication] then it has been worthwhile hoarding that item for it's "intended" purpose.
Having the filter in place may actually help with keeping the siphoning affect minimized compared to them being open on the top.
Worth a test imo.
Nice job on the stacks.
I’ll be interested to hear if there’s any seat of the pants difference from behind the wheel.
Thanks guys, I should see some LB/HR of fuel changes in the tuning of the main fuel table, my car wont hook on the street to see if the converter launch [flash] changes, will have to see that at the track in my data log & the time slip, will take the car out today & see how it drives on the street. Dwayne I agree on the filters, I can remove just the alum tops & the filter stays on the ram tube & would block the siphoning, like you said it is all worth testing at the track.will keep Y'all posted.
Went out for a short drive, had to wait for the cop to turn left & I went to the right on the highway 529, nailed it in 2nd gear up to 6100rpm seems to pull about the same, track time will be the tell, drivabilty is much better with the longer runner, the ECU did add about 11% more fuel in the WOT fuel cells 5000 rpm to 6100 rpm The length of the intake runner was 17" went to 24" to help lower RPM for a better 60' time at the track
I think I would try leaning it down at light part throttle cruise under 2500 RPM to 14.8 AFR or even leaner 12.4 to 13.2 it great for best power at WOT or more pedal pressures but less fuel AFR at light throttle high manifold pressure seems to be better to me
I think I would try leaning it down at light part throttle cruise under 2500 RPM to 14.8 AFR or even leaner 12.4 to 13.2 it great for best power at WOT or more pedal pressures but less fuel AFR at light throttle high manifold pressure seems to be better to me
I have tried it leaner but it does not like it, makes it run a little warm, not bad but it is a good 10 degrees more , gas millage has been 14mpg on the road. I do appreciate the input Cab in the video it was running high 13'S low 14
Doing a Track rental this Saturday night @ Houston Raceway Park , the DA looks like it will be 1700ft from the forecast, I am bringing some different runner lengths to try out, the ones I made the 11.04 @ 123mph made for a total of 17", the ones on the car now make 24" & I have some for 19" , I will run these with the lids OFF the air filters ,I hope to make some tuning progress.
I would like o see you hit it from a in gear idle at the track to see if flashing the converter will help it 60 Ft. better Some cars like that and some don't
I would like o see you hit it from a in gear idle at the track to see if flashing the converter will help it 60 Ft. better Some cars like that and some don't
I think you are correct Cab, thinking 1200 rpm & let it eat. all loaded up & fixin to get on I-10 east to Baytown A/C blowin
Well,,, made the drive & I am about 99% sure the sprag in the Converter is broken,but I could be wrong, when leaving the car felt like it was in 3rd gear & at about 20 feet out the car would start pulling hard, 1.727 60 ft, no spinning, 11.21 @123.2 1700 da, looking at the data log it flashed to 3500 at the leave, normal has been 4800. & even normal driving the car feels sluggish & the cruise rpm is up by about 250 rpm, still had a great time & the weather was nice, so now I am done until I can fix it & also have to wait for fall weather, Summer is now here starting next week, Thanks to everyone for the input & keeping up with my silly drag racing efforts. converter was $1300, I think I know how it broke, I hit it hard on a slick street & it spun hard & it bit & I lifted, same as when the trans sprag gets wadded up.
Well I made a mistake, I dropped the Trans pan & it was clean but the fluid & filter needed changed, about 5k miles on it & it seemed very thin, with that done it tightened the converter stall a little, after my last passes at the track i could not find my on track data logs on my computer, well I recently found them, here is what I did wrong, I had installed longer runners & driving on the street it felt great, but it would spin the tires A LOT, so when I went to the track it would hook GREAT, & now the computer efi, was using fuel map cells that it had never used on the street because of tire spin, so at about 20' out it went VERY lean over 22 to 1 AFR to about the 60', USER ERROR LOL, I had all those fuel map cells limited to only adding 10% more fuel & it need more like 30 % in those cells, with that all said I have NOW changed the gear from 3.54 to a 4.10, am going to try & go to the track August 15, they will be running at night, so hopefully I can deal with the heat, looking at last year in August the DA was 3000ft, you can see, the left & right o2 sensors followed the TPS all the way off the screen lean. it was so lean it didnt hurt the motor.
Charlie...... sounds like not having that “10” under your belt has been nagging away at you.
Hopefully the tune and the gears will get you there.
You THINK LOL , its all I live for :), its funny how that happens even for an old man like me, when I 1st started this project I thought, if it runs High 11's thats all I will need I will be happy with that, its just a street car, well when you run an 11.04 whatcha gonna do LMBO, last time out with the bad tune it ran 123. mph 1700ft DA, I will keep Y'all posted , also this new gear REALLY tightened up the converter just driving around slow.
I pulled over to take a picture,, 10,000 miles on this since I put it all together, One engine refresh @ the 5k mark for a bad camshaft & tool steel lifter combination, now a Hydro Roller, so now 5k on this set up, so far so good, just drained the oil & filter change looks very good, clean filter & it had 1kmiles of use.
Have you done the rolling high gear stall test with the 4.10’s yet?
No I went out today to try but the holiday weekend traffic is REALLY bad, all my test & tune roads are under construction, I will keep you in the loop, Have a GREAT 4th
Have you done the rolling high gear stall test with the 4.10’s yet?
No I went out today to try but the holiday weekend traffic is REALLY bad, all my test & tune roads are under construction, I will keep you in the loop, Have a GREAT 4th
I went looking for a safe road to get stupid on & found one this is the 1st time I did this in high gear went to 4900ish , I also did 1st gear from a 5 mph roll & it went to 5100ish just like normal, doing this also made some big changes in the tuning on the fuel map. all & all the converter feels like its working good, The DA is 3300ft right now ,,, HOT!!!! good thing this junker has A/C
Even in Chicago it's hot and my black Charger was also telling me that at every stop light today watchin the temp gauge rise! Luckily it cools back down when moving.
Maybe try it a few more times if you can before going to the track to give the EFI more time to learn it? (I don’t know if that’s how it works or not)
Yes that is what it does, you are correct I need to drive it & load it up. with this 4.1 gear on the street it does not BLOW the tires off as bad, they still spin but more controlled, you can see on the 2nd Data log when I nailed it in 1st gear the rpm went 6k The red line just for .5 second & then the car hooked & the rpm came down to 5100 ish.
Well it was time to replace the MT Street R Drag Radials, 6k miles on them & they had become egg shaped, I guess I should have been lifting the rear when parked in the garage, especially after a long drive in the summer when they get VERY hot, I went with the same 325-50-15 but in the Hoosier brand DR, they seem VERY soft to the fingernail, so now waiting on a cool weather Track rental day, it is still pretty warm [HOT] here in Southeast Texas, so the next time out will be testing the new 4.10 gears,, it had 3.54 & the new Hoosier's.
I also made a rear upper shock x member change, I bought a upper from RMS, that they use with the Street lynx 4 link set up, it is made to go in front of the Diff, I ordered mine without the upper arm welded tabs, turn it around backwards & install it in between the factory x member & it stands the shocks up more vertical. I had to remove my tail pipes for clearance, will have to do some modifications to the pipes , but will run with dumps for now, it is surprisingly quiet without them
The reason I run them is for street strip use, for the track I have the shocks with 5 psi & 1/2 round of preload on the Caltrac bars, then for street driving I bring the pressure up to 15 psi & it unloads the Caltracs for street use, I REALLY want some Double adjustable coil overs with a VERY soft spring to accomplish my set up, BUT $700.00 for shocks is not in the budget, the air shocks seem to work good though, we will see how good with the 4.1 gear next time out.
You might add some double adjustable shocks to your list of things to try. I know my car even when it 60d slower than it does now had way to much separation when I tried to run with those when I broke one of my rancho shocks.
Edit I just saw your other post. You might look into the Viking double adjustable shocks. I know mine were way less than $700 and I have been real happy with them.
You might add some double adjustable shocks to your list of things to try. I know my car even when it 60d slower than it does now had way to much separation when I tried to run with those when I broke one of my rancho shocks.
Edit I just saw your other post. You might look into the Viking double adjustable shocks. I know mine were way less than $700 and I have been real happy with them.
that is my next thing, saving up for them , I appreciate the advise
Talked to the Austin who runs the track HRP, looks like November for some more Track rentals, on another note, I REALLY love 69 Charger Daytona's & have planned on building mine as a restomod CLONE, I saved for over 4 years for this wing. it is Hollow aluminum casting like the original Daytona wings,, no flimsy fiberglass here, made my Dane & Justin Gjesdal, he has built quite a few Daytona clones, next will be the nose & then the window, but that will not be anytime soon.
what are you going to do about the rear window ? my one buddy found a perfect vega hatch with the glass and all the trim for only $50 at a swap meet this summer for his clone. he couldn't believe his eyes when he saw it sitting there.
what are you going to do about the rear window ? my one buddy found a perfect vega hatch with the glass and all the trim for only $50 at a swap meet this summer for his clone. he couldn't believe his eyes when he saw it sitting there.
Not sure yet on the rear window, If & when I do it I think I will make a steel window plug & get a Lexan Daytona window , The nose will come 1st & will get a Janak one, all this will have to wait for awhile, as you would understand, I need some things done & modified on my house, or sell this one & get one built with the things I NEED to make my life more tolerable, the struggle is real LOL, hear is a Picture of Brain Damage escaping with the new wing. Hope all is going well for you !!!!
Well ,, went to the track on Friday the 13th , track rental $200 bucks & was only able to do one run,,, not bad about 20 cars, no road closures or detours this time so it was only 126 mile round trip, weather was nice 1550 DA, want to just make an easy 1st pass with the new 4.10 gear, car leaves very nice & smooth, I get just past the 1/8 & it starts laying down & burpin & fartin, click it into Overdrive thinking I was floating the valves, that was not the case, me & my FUEL VOLUME problems LOL!!!! VERY glad I have a Data log system, lookin at the fuel cells the ECU was adding 80% + fuel & all I had to do was look at the log for the fuel pressure & THERE it was, went from 55 psi to 30 to 20 to 6 psi & soon as I lifted it went right back to 55 psi, I will do the same volume test that Dwayne had me do last time I had problems when it had a Carburetor, I REALLY think my Fuel filter cant keep up, I ordered a new large 460GPH EFI filter & will do a 55 psi volume test as it sits now & then with the new filter,, my pump is a in tank 450 LPH pump, good for over 1k hp, sorry it took awhile for me to post about this, but I was so fed up with everything, I drove home, parked in the garage closed the door & haven't looked at the car since,,,, GRRRRRRRRR
I don’t run EFI, but it would seem to me that if there was enough of a restriction in the filter to cause the pressure to drop to 8 psi, the pressure would start to fall off pretty much right after going to WOT. Is that how it looks on the data log?
I don’t run EFI, but it would seem to me that if there was enough of a restriction in the filter to cause the pressure to drop to 8 psi, the pressure would start to fall off pretty much right after going to WOT. Is that how it looks on the data log?
No, it waited till just after the 330 to start fluctuating & then by the 1/8 it was REALLY dropping , soon as I lifted its a stable 55 psi
I don’t run EFI, but it would seem to me that if there was enough of a restriction in the filter to cause the pressure to drop to 8 psi, the pressure would start to fall off pretty much right after going to WOT. Is that how it looks on the data log?
Quote
Its a 115 GPH @ 55 psi so 430ish LPH
700hp at a bsfc of .50 is about 58GPH(350LPH).
so I should be good if there is no restrictions in the lines or filter. I think the volume @ pressure test that you had me do last time when it was carbed is the only way to figure this thing out.
I learned the hard way with the 10 micron filters for EFI, they clog easier than the old 40 micron morroso I used to run with a carb. I run a Robb MC filter with a sintered brass element. I have mine setup to where I can turn it around and back flush it if it gives me trouble. That has gotten me through a test and tune before.
The fuel filter is an item I need to make easier to service. I like this one, but it looks so nice I feel it needs to be visible, $300 it tough to swallow for a fuel filter though.
I learned the hard way with the 10 micron filters for EFI, they clog easier than the old 40 micron morroso I used to run with a carb. I run a Robb MC filter with a sintered brass element. I have mine setup to where I can turn it around and back flush it if it gives me trouble. That has gotten me through a test and tune before.
The fuel filter is an item I need to make easier to service. I like this one, but it looks so nice I feel it needs to be visible, $300 it tough to swallow for a fuel filter though.
a question i have wanted to ask, but haven't yet, what would happen if i installed a late model FI can filter [such as a minivan uses in the supply line after the tank] in a carb'd application ? i can't state an exact application, but with the master catalogs i have, i could likely come up with an application that has a 3/8" [or metric equivalent] in and out. this would be for an intank pump [aeromotive 340lph] feeding a tick over 500hp. the reasoning behind this would be "any parts store" availability, along with an economically priced item. thoughts on this ? [TIA ! ]
a question i have wanted to ask, but haven't yet, what would happen if i installed a late model FI can filter [such as a minivan uses in the supply line after the tank] in a carb'd application ? i can't state an exact application, but with the master catalogs i have, i could likely come up with an application that has a 3/8" [or metric equivalent] in and out. this would be for an intank pump [aeromotive 340lph] feeding a tick over 500hp. the reasoning behind this would be "any parts store" availability, along with an economically priced item. thoughts on this ? [TIA ! ]
Thats what I have now , I had this also when it had a Carb, I forget the application for the filter, but it is the same one That Tanks Inc sells as an inline
thanks Charlie ! that will save a couple of bucks for docs, medicine, and hospital visits. i'll just have to hit the books to find something. there has been an old fram "chrome can" filter [new in the box] sitting on the shelf for years, but i don't like those things. never really have. it came with a bunch of other swap meet "stuff" probably 30 or more years ago. i just haven't gotten around to tossing it yet.
I think the volume @ pressure test that you had me do last time when it was carbed is the only way to figure this thing out.
I agree. And I think you should do it before you change any parts.
Ok guys here is what I found, correct my math if its off, My Car is named "BRAIN DAMAGE " for a reason, LOL, This test was @ 12.5 volts, running voltage is 14 volts so the pump output is more when the car is running, all that said, with the set up before any mods done it took 40 seconds @ 47 psi to flow 1 Gallon so that is 90 GPH ,,, with the new HIGH FLOW filter it took 37 seconds per gallon so, 97GPH, thats plenty of fuel for my low HP engine, BUT here is what I found, to do the test I unplug the fuel pump relay & bypass it & LOW & BEHOLD I found melted terminals on the electrical plug, so I ordered a 65 amp continuous Duty solenoid that will be mounted in the trunk right off the battery triggered by the old Fuel pump voltage supply wire, that will reduce resistance in the pump circuit because everything is right there ie Battery & in tank pump, Thanks for all the help
Does the system normally operate at 47psi? In other words....... that’s the system pressure while you’re driving, and just as importantly...... tuning?
I’m sure the melted terminal aren’t a sign that everything was happy.
Does the system normally operate at 47psi? In other words....... that’s the system pressure while you’re driving, and just as importantly...... tuning?
I’m sure the melted terminal aren’t a sign that everything was happy.
I run it @ 55 psi for everything, the difference in volume from 47 psi & 55 was about 1 PPH difference I checked it at 40,47, 55 psi just to see the difference in volume.
Of course...... even the test with the old filter in place showed fuel flow well above what is required for your power level(90GPH/540PPH)........ so I wonder if the wiring couldn’t keep up with the draw.
I don’t know what pump you’re running, but the higher PPH Walbros mention they have high current draw at high pressure/high flow....... so the wiring needs to be up to the task.
Do you have the regulator before or after the fuel rail?
Of course...... even the test with the old filter in place showed fuel flow well above what is required for your power level(90GPH/540PPH)........ so I wonder if the wiring couldn’t keep up with the draw.
I don’t know what pump you’re running, but the higher PPH Walbros mention they have high current draw at high pressure/high flow....... so the wiring needs to be up to the task.
Do you have the regulator before or after the fuel rail?
Here is the pump & yes it draws a lot of amps,also the higher the pressure the more amps draw, The return regulator is after the fuel rails FUELPUMPLINK
" I unplug the fuel pump relay & bypass it & LOW & BEHOLD I found melted terminals on the electrical plug"
what gauge wire are you using, and was the terminal connection to the wire a good one ? was the relay a lower amp/parts store relay that may have been part of the melted terminals ?
" I unplug the fuel pump relay & bypass it & LOW & BEHOLD I found melted terminals on the electrical plug"
what gauge wire are you using, and was the terminal connection to the wire a good one ? was the relay a lower amp/parts store relay that may have been part of the melted terminals ?
I used Bosch 30 amp relay & the pigtail is 12G connected to a 10g to go all the way to the tank. the plastic wire holder melted a little around the connectors,
We use their single stage nitrous board. I makes wiring so easy!
Yes it is all nice and all priced fair, a hard combo to find these days lol.
I wish I had known about these, I have relays all over my car, ,AC heater blower fan, AC compressor, ignition Charging system, low headlights, high headlights,FUEL PUMP,Holley DASH, I thought i was getting quality relays from Bosch when I did these, BUT I now have had 3 relay,Harness failures, looks like I need to change ALL of my relays , Thanks again
if all your relays were 30amp, would going to 40amp along with 10ga inputs help any ? unless of course the item needed larger [60-80amp] ones. i will be re-wiring a bunch of stuff on my charger using relays, and was figuring a buss bar fed with 4 or 6ga, then to the relays with at least 10ga feed. however, i was thinking of using bosch style or new mopar style relays. [like found on 2012 and newer vehicles]
if all your relays were 30amp, would going to 40amp along with 10ga inputs help any ? unless of course the item needed larger [60-80amp] ones. i will be re-wiring a bunch of stuff on my charger using relays, and was figuring a buss bar fed with 4 or 6ga, then to the relays with at least 10ga feed. however, i was thinking of using bosch style or new mopar style relays. [like found on 2012 and newer vehicles]
I think the larger wire & better relay would fix the issue, I am GUN SHY with the Bosch ones now, as money permits I will change all of them to these https://leashelectronics.com/products/single-70amp-relay-module & put a fuse size applicable to the application
Charlie....... any chassis dynos near you that you could test the car on without having to make the trek to the track to see if the problem is solved after the relay upgrade?
Charlie....... any chassis dynos near you that you could test the car on without having to make the trek to the track to see if the problem is solved after the relay upgrade?
Great minds think alike mine is just a little slower LOL GREAT idea Dwayne !!! , yes a guy that we used to street race with in the 80's, Bumbera's performance has a Mustang Chassis dyno that I will GLADLY pay them to make some pulls & see what happens, he is about 15 minuets away,, the drive to the track is hard on me so knowing the car is fixed will make the trek a little bit more bearable, as always I will keep y'all in the loop.
if all your relays were 30amp, would going to 40amp along with 10ga inputs help any ? unless of course the item needed larger [60-80amp] ones. i will be re-wiring a bunch of stuff on my charger using relays, and was figuring a buss bar fed with 4 or 6ga, then to the relays with at least 10ga feed. however, i was thinking of using bosch style or new mopar style relays. [like found on 2012 and newer vehicles]
I think the larger wire & better relay would fix the issue, I am GUN SHY with the Bosch ones now, as money permits I will change all of them to these https://leashelectronics.com/products/single-70amp-relay-module & put a fuse size applicable to the application
Just a note on the leash board that kind of applies to your relay problem. The relays on all of his boards are potted and not removable, you can send them to him and he will change them if they are bad. He said he has seen way way more problems with the connection with the relay and not the relay itself. That is why his boards do not have removable relays, one less thing to worry about.
if all your relays were 30amp, would going to 40amp along with 10ga inputs help any ? unless of course the item needed larger [60-80amp] ones. i will be re-wiring a bunch of stuff on my charger using relays, and was figuring a buss bar fed with 4 or 6ga, then to the relays with at least 10ga feed. however, i was thinking of using bosch style or new mopar style relays. [like found on 2012 and newer vehicles]
I think the larger wire & better relay would fix the issue, I am GUN SHY with the Bosch ones now, as money permits I will change all of them to these https://leashelectronics.com/products/single-70amp-relay-module & put a fuse size applicable to the application
Just a note on the leash board that kind of applies to your relay problem. The relays on all of his boards are potted and not removable, you can send them to him and he will change them if they are bad. He said he has seen way way more problems with the connection with the relay and not the relay itself. That is why his boards do not have removable relays, one less thing to worry about.
Thanks for the info, I will just order an extra assembly & keep it in my center console, I drive this car everywhere & it TRULY is a test bed for parts failure LOL, most of the problems I have had would not have happened if it was a RACE car only , things get hot, wiring ,,ect,, Thanks again
if all your relays were 30amp, would going to 40amp along with 10ga inputs help any ? unless of course the item needed larger [60-80amp] ones. i will be re-wiring a bunch of stuff on my charger using relays, and was figuring a buss bar fed with 4 or 6ga, then to the relays with at least 10ga feed. however, i was thinking of using bosch style or new mopar style relays. [like found on 2012 and newer vehicles]
I think the larger wire & better relay would fix the issue, I am GUN SHY with the Bosch ones now, as money permits I will change all of them to these https://leashelectronics.com/products/single-70amp-relay-module & put a fuse size applicable to the application
Just a note on the leash board that kind of applies to your relay problem. The relays on all of his boards are potted and not removable, you can send them to him and he will change them if they are bad. He said he has seen way way more problems with the connection with the relay and not the relay itself. That is why his boards do not have removable relays, one less thing to worry about.
Thanks for the info, I will just order an extra assembly & keep it in my center console, I drive this car everywhere & it TRULY is a test bed for parts failure LOL, most of the problems I have had would not have happened if it was a RACE car only , things get hot, wiring ,,ect,, Thanks again
I know what you mean, since I drive mine a good amount also anything I do to it has reliability and ease of service behind it. Since I try to do Drag week when I can I always look at things from a "side of the highway" perspective when it comes to repairs. There isn't a whole lot that can take my car down on the road. Two fuel pumps, two fans, spare power circuits, 8 coils etc. But it only has one rear main seal and that is why it had to have its first tow truck ride several months ago
can't wait until it's done and you go down the track and report in !
Now come visit Arizona!
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