not your average carb lift plate post

I'm sure we've all read about the pros/cons of using a carb lift plate. I'm fine with using one.

Here's my question. OK to use a carb lift plate with a card adapter/spacer between the intake and lift plate? I'm wondering if I can use it on my 750 baseplate to dominator adapter? Bolting it to the spacer doesn't seem as strong as right to the intake.

This is how I have my Dom set up .. you can turn over the adapter
to run the 750.. if you want a spacer put it under the adapter.. this
is 2 intakes set up differently.. 1 is a W-9 and the other a W-5
EDIT
How tall is your spacer plate.. I have run a 2" tall spacer under the
adapter.. your not looking for strength .. your not lifting the engine
with it.. you can lift the engine going straight to the intake bolts(carb
bolts but I dont do that

I've seen it done but I wouldn't do it on my own engine. That aluminum casting isn't very thick and typically those cast adapters are made as cheap as possible using garbage grade material. You aren't talking about Boeing landing gear type of quality control. More likely, those cast adapters were made in a dirt floor shop in China. So no, I wouldn't mount a lift plate to a cast aluminum adapter even though the stress level is actually fairly low.

That material in the casting is far better than some of my SB stuff..
one of my W-5 intakes is a perfect example .. that thing was piss poor
and was returned

I don't even like lifting by the intake!! But if you must just take the adapter off and lift by the intake.

Yeah the adaptors are usually bottom grade material, I would work it without the adaptor.

seems like most are thinking not to lift from the spacer/adapter.

My reason of thinking about this was for between round engine swaps. I was thinking off having a carb / engine lift plate already bolted to my spare engine. I figure it might save a few minutes in an engine swap taking place at the racetrack I didn't have to unbolt carb adapters on the broken engine nor on the spare engine. And yes, I have swapped between rounds once- broke an engine in the first time trial at one of the 'small' races during million $$ bracket races so there were hours of time available to get the swap done.

I have 4 points that I use for swapping engines.. I use a engine
leveler with 4 chains 2 of the front points are on the motor plate..
I find it to be very quick.. I can have the engine and trans on the
ground in about 1 hour.. I have pulled a engine at the track but
now days I dont carry the engine crane anymore and save that
kind of stuff for back at home

You seem to have your mind made up so as long as you sleep well at night do it. What's the worst that can happen.

You could do what happened to me.. my engine lift gave way and the
engine and trans came down on the front of the car.. the cyl on the
lift bent due to the load.. now I have a bigger unit

There are 8 flanges on the adapter that seem to me would be weaker than the connecting points on either the intake or the lift plate. Given the potential of dropping the engine in the heat of battle, the cost of the few minutes to R and R the adapter seems insignificant.

Are mounting small lift brackets to the engines and having an adapter already on the replacement engine out of the question?

if having an adapter/spacer on your engine[s] is an absolute requisite, fab up some lift tabs and bolt them to your engine[s]. your weight penalty can't be more than one pound.

Me too