Anyone use Milodon BB dipstick?

If so, how's it work? Got pics, especially if you're using it with headers? Thanks - Brad

I use the lokar stick http://www.lokar.com/engine-dipsticks.html

A-Body, 400, TTI’s and Milodon dipstick. It positively stays down with multiple o-rings. Comes out the front away from the heat.

I bought this one from Year One. They had the best price believe it or not.

Works great. You can see it sticking up by the #1 plug wire. Only thing I had to do was make my own fill lines on dip stick.

Mike

Its funny, none of my cars have a dipstick.....

I appreciate the replies. Still not sure that's what I want to use, though.

I t's easy to install and use, looks clean. I like it.

Mark

What is the problem you are trying to solve? Do you need a locking dipstick to pass tech?

I use the Milodon stick on my hemi. It was the only one I could get to fit w/ my headers. It's hidden behind the motorplate so you can't see it in any of the engine pics I have on my computer.

Never understood why you wouldn't want a dipstick...even on a race engine. Makes it quick and easy to check the oil level and to see if you have water and oil mixing. I get that it's one less place to leak oil and/or vacuum, but they aren't hard to seal. And the old saying that "if you need to check it, you need to change it"...yeah, I don't buy that. Most people change oil way more often than needed.

No tech requirement, but I'd like to use something more secure (o-ring seal in handle) than stock.

The Milodon looks perfect on paper (or still in the package), but the examples I've seen of how people have routed it for a BB w/ headers don't show what I was hoping. Someone else mentioned to me not using one because of how close it was to the headers, and I have the same concern. I don't like the idea of routing it forwards towards the fan, either. Funny(?) how it seems to be a really good choice for a Gen II Hemi, though.

Guess I'll keep looking for options.

I admit I haven't used the Milodon.
It just seems fancier than I need.

I have had the best luck bending the tube where desired, and then dealing with the bracket second.

On my Wedge I bent the tube towards the inner fender and then straight up to put it where I wanted.
After that I welded an extension (piece of metal with a hole drilled in it) to the existing bracket, so it
would bolt to the motor mount like a stock one. If a guy didn't have a welder, the extension bracket
could be bolted or riveted instead. I'll jam my phone down there and take pics if it will help.

On my Hemi I noticed all the "$pecial" parts out there were for stock exhaust manfolds.
So I took a wedge stick, bent it as needed, cut the bracket off and relocated it.
It's pretty close, I will probably need to either shorten it or bend it a little more once it's installed in the chassis.

Brad...I used a stock dipstick for an HP application on every BB wedge and header combo I ever had in my cuda.
Stock heads and Edelbrock RPM heads w/ Hooker 1 7/8" headers and the 2" 5209 super comps.
Also Indy SR heads w/ the TTI 2" to 2 1/8" step headers.

I've always used a stock one, too, w/ a variety of "custom" bends to fit whatever the headers happened to require.

Stock one here. A body. You just have to be patient. But legit when done

Another option, Sorry I don't have a pic with the headers on (can get one if needed)...may not work for you, but did for me. You could use a truck type 90* fitting in the oil pan,... locate the fitting wherever for or aft in the pan that would help dodge your header issue. Run a short steel flared tubing then a union to the Milodon.

The reason I went this route was the motor I have was already built and not drilled for a dipstick. I could've built a jig to drill it, but I have a lot going on in that area anyway with the main oil lines, pre-oiler lines, and a remote water drain hose. My dipstick can just hug the block behind all that. Chose not to come out between 1 and 3 primaries because it makes it so much easier to swing the wrench for the header bolts without the stick, and don't have to remove the stick to remove the headers.

Figured the union might leak a little being the Milodon's lower tubing was a tad smaller than the steel tubing but not a drop yet,...but I only have 48 miles on it so far.

Interesting approach, but not something I see myself doing.

I'm going to put the headers on the engine while it's still on the stand and go from there. Thanks for everyone's replies.