Street engine in Daytona - what will it run?

This is the street engine I am putting in the '93 Daytona I bought this year.
496 CID, 10.3 CR, unported 906 heads, M1 dominator intake, roller cam.
Not my design or build, but it was new and priced right. Bracket racing...

Dyno results yesterday:
571 lb-ft at 4700-4900 rpm
569 hp at 5600-5800 rpm

Car should be about 2730 pounds race ready.
What do you think it will run? 1/8 mile tracks around here...

9.80

6.30-6.40s in the 1/8th if everything is sorted out.

“In theory”...... about 6.20.

Just shows that cubes and a big cam can only take you so far when the intake flow is limited.
The tq number is really low for a 4.25 stroke(496 = 383 block +.060 with a 4.25 crank?)........ perhaps the cranking pressure is really just too low for the cam duration.

Seems like a set of TF270’s and a big intake would be worth about 100hp.

I can't say exactly, but I'm sure with your knowledge, it will be an overachiever. Good luck with it Jim!

Should be fast enough to have some fun. When you want to step it up just buy some Trick Flow heads and unleash the beast.......

Car is a lot heavier than I figured it would be.

This is an RB block, 4.15 Eagle crank, 4.36 bore engine (sheet says 4.363)

The weight-power equation I use for guessing shows 9.85 in the quarter mile, and 6.25 in the eighth.
With a powerglide and that torque number, I don't know how close that will be.
I also don't have any other engine dyno curves to compare, just using the peak HP number in the calculation.

This car was setup with a powerglide, and since it came with the shifter, driveshaft, trans crossmember, etc; I am going to buy a PG for it also. I decided to dyno the new build since I had no idea what power it would make, and wanted something to give the torque converter manufacturer to build one for me.

The engine only changed small amounts with spark advance changes, carb swap, jet changes, and carb spacers. That last run with adding the 1/2 open spacer under the 4 hole tapered 1", was the biggest change. It added 6 hp at peak, and about 10 at each rpm past peak. It also leaned the oxygen sensor reading from 11.7 to 12.5. The carb O2 was always pretty constant from 4000- 6400, but was amazing constant with that carb spacer combo. Basically 12.5 below torque peak, 12.4 around peak torque, and back to 12.5 approaching peak HP and higher.

Those heads must be a real restriction. And maybe that is why the engine was so insensitive to changes.?

I haven't weighed it yet, that is what the previous owner told me.
It has the factory steel doors, steel hatchback, rear bumper, factory dash (nice), etc. One of the heavier Daytona chassis cars I looked at.
But I liked the workmanship, all round tube, and even the paint scheme!

If I get bored with the track performance, the short block is a good starting point with crank, rods, pistons. Take off the 88cc heads, put some decent flowing aluminum 72cc heads, and presto... 12 CR. Even leave the cam alone.

with a 3-speed proper working converter, 5.98 1/8 9.59-142mph 1/4

I just read that was a PG.....+.10 in the 1/8 at least

9.70. Optimize the gear for 1/8 mile and you might sneak it into the 5s on a good day.

4 link?

With unported 906 heads, I will guess 10.10. Just a guess, lots of unknowns. Elevation etc. Just have fun !!!!!

I have a buddy with a daytona and it weighed 2140 i believe{not sure if it was with the driver}. Where did you get it dynoed? Also it will be very hard to get that good air that you had in Maryland. Jim you know it won't be long until you make some changes and put power in that thing! lol

had and 85 tube chassis Daytona with iron headed 451 .625 comp roller 850 carb 727 5500 stall converter 4.86 gear weighed 2400 with me in it best 1/4 9.80 142 best 1/8 6.30 110 60ft 1.36 14x32 tire leaving at 3400 on brake

I'm going to guess between 6.15 up to 6.30 in the 1/8 mile at or above 110 MPH

It is a full round tube chasis car.

4-link, with Ford 9" style rear (Strange center section), 4.56 gears and 33x15-15 slicks.
It was Dyno tested at Nesbitt Racing Engines near Burlington, NC.
They mentioned they have a bigger power absorber on their dyno since mostly they do 1200-1300 hp naturally aspirated engines. They even showed me the old absorber compared to the one on the dyno now.

After I find a PG trans and put the motor and trans in the car, I will put the scales under the tires to see the weight and distribution to baseline the 4-link. The previous owner was about my size/weight and he ran an iron BB mopar. He said the car should not need any chassis adjustment for me. This chart is just my estimate after measuring the 4-link holes. I will update it when it is weighed.

Jim
Very similar weight, and gear to my old Challenger. My old Eddie 440 had little less TQ and HP, but I finally managed a 9.96-134 playing with gear and converter mainly.

What I learned over the years with that combo:


You need a converter that will keep the engine in the meat of it's torque curve the longest.
I had an 8 inch 5500 stall that would flash to 5400 at the hit, and drop to 5250 on the shift to drive.
I had a 9 inch 5000 stall that would flash to 5100 at the hit, and drop to 5000 on the shift to drive.
The engine would go through the traps at 6400 regardless of whether it got there at 1150 feet or 1280 feet, that's all it had.
The 9 inch was a tenth or better than the 8 just about anywhere except Denver!

I preferred a low gear set glide...always better '60 than a 1.76

Great looking machine, the extra weight is fine since it makes for a nicer car.

Very cool car Jim!!

Great looking car, Jim! Ever consider short shifting it and run 10.00 so you can stay out of a fire suit?

Unported 906’s flow enough air for 570 hp?

Looks like a fun car. My old Daytona was the nicest driving car I’ve ever had and I miss it. Hopefully the new owner gets it out this year

Nice piece, Jim. I'd say 6.05-6.30 depending on actual weight of car, and what trans you go with. There was someone on here that has a real nice glide for sale. I was going to buy it, but backed out last minute. Have to slow down spending habits, since I'm getting ready to relocate, downsize. TCI housing and bell, Reid tail, brake, 5,800 converter.

Yes.
Part of my retirement "plan", was to just run 10.00.
We will see if I can stick to that low dollar, easy going, bracket racing.

But After selling the Dart turn key for $30k, I had the money for a good chassis that I won't "outgrow" from a power perspective.

Thanks.
I was thinking 4500-4900 stall. Easy to hook, and that is where the engine torque is.

I finally finished the Powerglide for the Daytona.
I was going to use the car's TCI midplate to adapt to the GM bellhousing, but changed to a JW ultrabell instead, minor delay.
I will still use the midplate, but just for chassis mounting, not an adapter.

I used a saws-all to initially cut off the transmission bellhousing.
Then cleaned it up and made the final clearance on my Bridgeport milling machine. A die grinder can be used instead, it isn't critical.

I started with a stock 1967 PG from a 1967 Camero 327 car. It has the 1.76 planetary gearset.
Here are some of the upgrades I put in the trans:

FTI-F2520 Input Shaft, 4340 Steel, Turbo Spline, Powerglide. Requires converter have stator centering bushing
FTI-F2543 Lightened Steel Clutch hub, for 6 to 8 clutches
ATI-205642 Steel drum assembly, 7 clutches (8.86 lbs) 0.065” thick, 8 steels 0.060” thick
ATI-205318 Super Servo gapless (hooked) twin rings, gasket, o-ring.
ATI-205750 PG - Springs – Heavy Duty for reverse piston release - Set (17)
SOX-28709 PG HD rear spring retainer
ATI-202100 Shifter Lever, 2-Piece, Steel, Zinc Finish, Chevy, Powerglide, Kit
ATI-206300 Transmission Gaskets, Transmission Overhaul, Seals, Filter. Teflon rings on input shaft & drum support
ATI-203050 ATI Compu-Flow Trans-Brake, external solenoid
FTI-F2553 Transmission Pan, Deep, Aluminum, Natural, 2 qt. Capacity Increase

There are some case mods for the transbrake and durability improvements for racing.
The JW bell is SFI rated for the flywheel/flexplate sheild, but I added a trans case shield to add SFI protection to the rest.

Good friend of mine had a very similar combo in a tube chassis Daytona. 499" RB, stock unported 346 heads, solid FT cam, M1 4500 and a 1050 and a 727 trans. Ran 6.50s in the 1/8.

Later on he bought some Indy SR heads for it. First pass off the trailer it went 6.teens w/ very low timing and no tuning. Should have been 5.9x capable but he sold it before ever running it again.

Time to bolt it to the engine and mount the combo in the car.
I had Lenny at Ultimate Converter Concepts in North Carolina build me a 9.5" converter with stator upgrade and mechanical diode for durability.
A few braided lines to fit and make, etc. I upgraded the car's fuel lines to a return regulator, also have another filter for past the pump.
Getting close now.

Just putting some Indy or Trick Flow heads on will bump the CR from 10.3 to high 11's, and improve power with no other changes.
A future upgrade if I get tired of running 6.20-6.40 (9.80-10.00) and want 5 second 1/8ths, and low 9's quarter mile.