Headers for A body

What is everyone using for headers on an A body with alterkation frontend and RB block and 440-1 heads TTI says they have nothing.

Not sure what's currently available that will work with the AlretK, but 10 years ago I could not find any that fit. Had custom stainless headers made.

I know of someone who also had a set made that is wanting to sell them. He's changing to Predator heads.
His are coated mild steel step headers (i think 2 1/8- 2 1/4..not positive), 4" collectors. Chris Duncan Race Cars built his and mine.

PM me if you are interested and i can send you the contact info

Made my own for my W-9 headed deal with the AlterKtion in an early A body.
Stahl used to sell kits , so I got the 1 7/8" kit , SPD for the flanges and paid to have them coated.
I had to be close to 800.00 in them when finished , and somewhere north of 40 hours.
If I had to do it again , I'd give serious thought to farming them out.
For the time and money , I know I could have had a set done in stainless.

What year A body?
Do you want chassis or fenderwell type headers?

Since AlterK gets everything out of the way, it pretty much eliminates the reason for fenderwells. It also eliminates the reason to use headers designed around thoughts of K members and steering linkage. I had custom headers made for my W8 mill, but they were patterned somewhat to the headman hustlers we ran with our iron head mill. Take advantage of the new free space

What type of header are you looking for? With no torsion bars and no steering box in the way they should be fairly easy to fabricate. Or buy some shelf headers and move a couple of tubes around. Just depends on what size and length of pipes you need if you'll be able to modify a set or if you need full custom.

Not always true, depending on tube size.
The rack & pinion steering location places the steering linkage right in the way, as usual.
I chose to have the rear tube wrap around the frame for starter access. If it were inside the frame, starter removal/installation would be impossible with the headers in place.
The passenger side is tight, but under chassis headers are very doable on that side.
And anyone who is anal about "equal tube length" headers should forget about having any made for this setup.

These headers are 2 1/4". Only regrets are not using thicker flanges, and maybe should have gone with step headers instead of straight tube. This pic is over 10 years old, and partial inner fenderwells have been installed, brake lines moved, and front end rewired since then.

The more recent pic clearly shows the steering linkage...and Andy's stout plate being mocked up. A steering linkage stabilizer is in the plans.

Yeah, 2 1/4 would be tough to stuff in there but most people don't need that big of a tube. My old 514 race engine made 900 hp with the 2" headers that PipeMax recommended. On that engine a 2 inch to 2 1/8 might have picked up a little bit of top end power but it didn't need 2 1/4. Most big block bracket type engines are going to be happy with 1 7/8 stepped to 2 inch. Not a lot of guys with 800 or 900 hp engines out there.

I purchased a LEGO headers kit and built a set of headers. It was time consuming but way better and faster with the LEGO kit.

Looks like you did a great job on those headers.

Thanks, getting a hemi in a gremlin takes a little creativity and lots of but at the end of the day it is about the same width as a Dart in the engine bay.

My 500 in the Demon has 2 1/4 header tubes with one on the pass and three on the driver side through the fenderwell. They fit a lot easier with the HDK coil-over lower LCAs but I need to replace them because they are thin and old, dented, and the 4 1/2 collectors I don't need under the car. The tall RB 540/440-1 with proparts headers interfered with the snout bars and torsion bars, maybe because of the 500 motor plate I was trying to still use which may have relocated the motor. The torsion bars are gone for now and both BBs use the same hole dimension for the drag link, thus locating the motors... This is a street car, which around here means it can be driven to the track, even with a chute.

I am thinking a Gen III. Smaller motor, more in tune with the times.