Engine Run Stand

Just curious what you guys are using for engine run stands. Looking for something less than $500 that is halfway decent and will hold a 440. I have all gauges, radiator, ignition, etc. Just need something to break motors in before they go into the car. Any help is appreciated

there just was a thread on a cheapie (maybe HF iirc), not sure how complete it was but several had bought it & seemed to be OK with it for what it is.

Robert, you may be thinking of this one???? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobile-Engine-Testing-Station/51985964

I think it was a cheaper price then.

Could have been this larin brand for 339.00 from wally.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobile-Engine-Testing-Station/51985964

treed ya by one minute. lol

I did see the Wal Mart one, but was curious if anyone has used it. I like the price on it but wasn't sure if it would fit a 440 on it.

I also looked at this one from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-918015

Anybody use that one?

I made mine out of 2x12s. Worked great, did everything I needed it to do. It's just a rectangle to set the engine on, similar to how crate engines are usually shipped. But if you need it to look impressive, it sure won't do that.

I built the base out of leftover 2” by 3” frame rail and used old roll bar tubing for upright rad supports and front engine mounts. Used an old adjustable reliever hitch for rear mount, made it adjustable for length. Fronts are also adjustable. Used casters off of the toolbox that is in my trailer. Built it in one weekend, only had to by $25.00 worth of steel, had gauges, radiator, ignition, etc laying around. Has had dozens of engines run on it. If I can remember how to put pics on here I’ll see if I can post it.

The "homemade" stand sounds like a good idea, especially with the price that some of these stands are going for. I may end up going that route. Pics would probably help if you get a chance to post them. Thanks for the comments

I also built my own. I have run 511 inch engines down to 273's on it. I will look for my pics of it.

How to break in an engine on a stand: you can't.

I just use the K member sitting on a truck tire. Mount the radiator to a couple of vertical 2x4s. I have pre-run quite a few engines over the years like that. No problems.

You can break in cam/lifters on the stand, which is my primary consideration. That and insure there are no leaks before installing in the car. It's silly I know.

I have the Summit one. Held my 500 with filled block very nice. Ran up with no problems at all. Tray holds battery and gas can. Mounted ignition, fuel pump and filter on lower support. Glad I got the gauge kit, too.

I borrow one that looks a lot like that one, it works fine

I was wondering about that too, if it would put enough load on the rings by gunning it repeatedly but there'd be no trans load.

I've never seen anyone ever fire up a new engine and immediately take it out on the road to load it. You warm it up, bleed the cooling system, check temp and oil pressure, check the timing and idle, listen for noises, check for leaks. Usually takes about an hour or so. So what's the difference if I run it on my stand? If I have to tear into anything, I don't have to worry about scratching the paint on the fenders.

I don't have a lot of extra space, and a stand alone engine run stand takes up a lot of room to store. I made brackets to mount the engine on the legs of a cherry picker out of some scrap I had laying around. The brackets take up almost no room to store. I made up a panel with a couple switches, a Chrysler ecu, and a starter relay, and I had an extra set of gauges sitting around to monitor temperature and oil pressure. It works great.

I used to do that. Put the engine it , hook everything up, top off the fluids and fire it up. I lived in town so I drove out to the expressway , there was 3 mile stretch to the next exit. I would do 3 blast up to about 100 and down and take the exit back to the house. Then checked everything over , never had a leak . Changed the oil and was ready for the track.

Do you go to the Pate swap meet in Ft Worth at the end of April? I am going to take a run stand to sell, also there is a vendor that builds and sells them for that price range

Creative and efficient,great job there!

I stand corrected. 1.
But for any real budget bracket racer, all that's normally done is test run the engine, in the car, in the driveway. Yank if necessary. Race when ready.

Mrrandyj you are certainly willing to fab up/sell another set of em correct! EDIT on a side note here is a good article on ring breakin. www.mototuneusa.com then scroll down to & click on "breakin secrets". A motorcycle site but the principle is the same. Their take is that you get ONE chance to do a proper (ring) breakin that will properly load the rings & give "excellent" leakdown numbers as opposed to "good" leakdown numbers & that seating in over time is bogus. their take: goose it hard/repeately during breakin & seperately I am a believer in the BRM dingle berry hone for the final hone finish. BRM wants you to bore to size then flexhone & I disagree on that & feel that a "normal" bore on a grasshopper then rigid hone of the correct grit THEN a final brief dingle berry hone.

I guess the OP should have refrained from using “break in” in his text, even tho title says “run in”. As others have said, breaking in cams, timing, valve and carb adjustments are much easier, not to mention any kind of leaks. And there is nothing sweeter than having someone spend half a day installing their engine in a car, then firing it up in a couple of cranks and having a nice smooth running engine immediately. The older I get, the less time I’d like to spend fixing something in a full bodied car, that could have been much easier on the stand. The references to break in procedures are interesting tho. Just my thoughts.

MRRANDYJ. THAT IS BRILLIANT.

Absolutely love it. You could easily mount exhaust and mufflers.

Gotta say, I may steal that idea for my next "I wanna fab something" kinda weekend. 👍

Found some old pics of it. I have since added a 5 gal fuel cell. It breaks down and stands up against the wall. I can also mount a 5.9 cummins on it.

Here's the engine stand I slapped together quick 'n' dirty on an existing cart to check a 360 for leaks and a little tuning;

I had exhaust hooked up when I ran it. I had an old 2 1/2" set of headpipes and mufflers that I quickly put on when needed.

Here is a picture of mine.

Another.

I'd love one of those... but it would just give another reason for some of my neighbors to hate me.

I have talked to all my neighbors, most of them come to watch, pretty good people. I try not to run anything after about 7pm and not early in the am. I have slip on mufflers for some of the headers, but this set, off of my Avenger, have to big of collectors.

I'm gonna grab my chop saw/bench grinder/drill press & my scrap metal & get after it. Good pics!

Here's my test stand. Fits BB Mopar only...all I've ever had on it. Cobbled together w/ scrap pile metal, looks rough as he11, but it works great.
Awesome for breaking in flat tappet cams and for engines that need the heads torqued again after a few heat cycles.
Used an old 4 speed bellhousing and flywheel, old radiator, a couple gauges, extra ignition box, a couple toggle switches, etc.
Very simple, very rough, but very functional.

Nice job! Simple and effective.