150hp Nitrous set-up pluming/fuel pump/recommendations

Getting pieces together for putting a 150hp wet nitrous set-up on my daily driver ‘67 Barracuda 383 car. I’ve only had it to the track once, ran a 12.8 @ 108 & it’s a 383/727/4.10 with stock converter. Planning on going quite a bit to the track this summer & probably get a little looser converter.

I’m currently running a Holley 850 double pumper fed thru a Holley regulator from a Carter Street Super mechanical fuel pump(120 gph) & the stock 5/16” fuel line with a 3/8” sending unit in the tank already in the car. I have already bought a fine-lines 3/8” full length tank to pump fuel line. I am not wanting to get rid of the mechanical fuel pump because I’ve had better luck with them on daily drivers.

I’m not sure how much fuel the nitrous will need so I wasn’t sure if I should...

Run 3/8” all the way to the regulator then from the regulator run off 1side to the carb & off the other side run to the solenoid for the nitrous.

Or

Get a 1/2” sender to run a T then from that run the 3/8” to the carter pump then to the carb & run the existing 5/16” from the other side of the T to an electric fuel pump then to the solenoid for the nitrous.

Anyone have any advice for this set-up?

I'd rather ave the nitrous on another regulator. Like just a plain jane 2 port holley would feed plenty

I mounted a small JAZ jr. dragster fuel cell next to the radiator on the core support where the horns were to use as a supplemental fuel tank. I then mounted a cheapie electric K&N 5 psi fuel pump under it and plumbed it directly into the fuel solenoid. No regulator, no issues.

I made a larger holddown for the valley cover and mounted solenoids on it. The fuel line comes up behind the alternator and goes under the intake to feed fuel solenoid.

And another fuel pump

The circled area is the only visible part of the fuel line. No, the system isn't 100% hidden but most people never notice. I use a Leash Electronics single stage board mounted on the opposite side of the firewall from the solenoids. Greatly simplified wiring, has relays, fuses etc.

Leash board:

It is a pretty trick little piece and dirt cheap!

Your second option is better, but I don't like T's. I would aim at having a separate fuel system in place for the fuel noid alone with its own pump/reg/guage to monitor pressure. You need constant pressure all through the run, its fuel that makes the power not the N20, thats extra air.

On my 67 Plymouth Belvedere, I use an NOS Big Shot plate.
Stock P/U, and stock 5/16 fuel line.
Carter Mechanical fuel pump with 3/8 braided to a Y fitting.
One side of the Y, goes to the chrome feed line for the Holley 750 Double pumper, the other side goes to the NOS Cheater fuel solenoid.

Engine is a Stealth headed 440, best pass on motor is 12.53-109.
I have the plate jetted 76F and 73N, and it has ran a best of 11.27-124.

The old school jetting is a compromise for the fuel system, it puffs a little black smoke at the hit but clears up by half track.

The car had a Holley street mechanical pump on it when I first got it, and you could feel it "nose over" on the nitrous at about 1100 feet and I would lift off the nitrous button and run about 117, with the Carter it's never done that, even on 95 degree days at the track.

My brothers and I have ran similar setups with a Carter mechanical pump on 7 different Mopars, all your typical 12-14 second street car, and have always been able to pick up a second with out hurting anything. A plate, a T, two solenoids, a thirty amp relay and a button. Simple and easy.

Very clean install GY3...that Leash board looks like a nice addition.

Thanks!

They have a lot of other options. If I had it to do over again, I'd do the board that has a timer built in.

I plan on doing a 200 shot this upcoming season.

I'm a boost only guy the played with NOS for a little while but I'm confident that good enough could be better with a separate fuel pump and even separate fuel cell with higher octane!!

I too use a 5/16 main fuel line, Carter mechanical street/strip pump and 3/8 from the pump to carb. It handled my n/a engine fine but was pretty sure it would not supply the nitrous fuel solenoid what it needed. Arming switch is where the cigarette lighter used to be. I have a switch under the dash on the left side that activates the supplemental fuel pump.

Added cost,
Added weight,
Added complexity, more things to go wrong. (A separate fuel cell with higher octane only works if someone remembers to add the fuel...it HAS happened).

Sometimes good enough is good. For what you're trying to do. Now, if you want three stages and 400hp, that's a different story.

I'm not stating what is best or ideal, just stating what has worked, in personal experience, over and over.

when you say 150 hp, what jet are you talking about?
The main thing as already mentioned is to split your fuel line. One reg for the carb, one for the fuel solenoid. what your looking for with a plate is 4-5 psi flowing through a .073 nitrous jet. This is it, or whatever your plate manufacturer/tuner tells you to use. That simple. Either make, borrow or buy a fuel flow test gauge and check it. This would be in the supply line to the solenoid or off a port in the reg etc.

back in the 90's EVERY car with a powershot plate had a "T" in the fuel line to the solenoid and it worked fine ..LOL
Its when you get GREEDY that it don't work...LMAO !

I know myself...and I always want more!

Anyone running the Inovative Motorsports Power Safe gauge that incorporates bottle pressure, Fuel mixture & it shuts off the nitrous off if the O2 senses the muxture is off.

https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/psn1.php