Would you run a solid roller with ductile rockers?

I am currently building a 408 w2 engine that’s gonna be a pump gas mostly street some strip. I already have bushed ductile rockers and want to run a solid roller.
If it’s not recommended to run a roller with them I plan to run a solid flat tappet since another 1000+ for rocker arms won’t justify the cost. I plan to run something around
250-255@050 and .600 valve lift.
What are your opinions?

I ran a set of unbushed rockers on my 440 years ago with a 695 mushroom tapping cam for years. Strip only car but we raced 2-3 times a week.

Seems to me it will be about the intensity of the lobes, and how much they stress the rockers, not what type of lifter they use. A street roller would probably be easier on the rockers than a race flat tappet. My geuss is an endurance roller lobe would be worth looking at, and find some of the OLD big name engine builders from the 60s or early 70s, as they probably tried everything. I know for instance that Crane Gold rockers will stand up to a .750 lift superstock roller, at least for a while. I broke the crank before i put many runs on that setup.

Your on the margin.. do you know the max lift
of the cam

“I wouldn’t”, but I’m sure many have.

Pbody- I plan to run something that is approximately.400 lobe lift.

At about .400 lift I would.. sweep is minimal
if its set up right.. assuming this is some
street grind cam

I ran a roller with them for many passes on a 440. Never an issue.
Doug

That rocker is better than most of the junk that was sold out there.

If it's bushed, make sure it has full oil and keep idle oil pressure and flow up. I've run .750 net rollers and 340 on the seat with those rockers.

If you break that rocker, it's a geometry issue, or some other problem like a binding issue.

I'd pay to run those before I'd use a set of HS rockers for free.

Careful inspection for minor surface imperfections. If any catch your fingernail (high precision instrument) just blend them into the casting with a fine stone until you can't feel it. Especially careful of lower surface of valve-side lever.
Any sign of relieving, machining for spring or retainer OD?
If you're really nervous, cryo treatment may make you feel better.
Yes, I'd run them.

Whatever I run will be a street type roller. I wasn’t so much worried about durability of the rocker, but wear and tear on the guides and valve tips etc. The last street roller I ran was 200 seat pressure and 560 open, although it probably never saw 560 with only .580 lift.

If the geometry is correct, the guides won't wear out. That rocker is highly underrated. To you have the econo head or the are you using offset blocks and shafts?

Should work fine for you since I doubt that you put very many miles on the combination.

I bought a good used set from Andy for my 451 with .654 mushroom (272@.050) and 140#/430# springs. I expect they will last a good long time too

Many,many , many SS Mopar racers used them for years and years.
I'm sure there a decent piece to start with for the W2 so I wouldn't hesitate at all on using them
John Dieanna used them on his old M.P and later Comp Eliminator W2 motors, he let the clutch out at 8200 and shifted it around 8800 RPM As far as I know he never broke one either

These are the w2 race head.

Then you should have offset stands and shafts. Make sure the stem height is correct. Then you adjust the stand height to correct the geometry.

If you get that right, those rockers are good to at least 8800 RPM with the spring loads I posted earlier.