Anyone ever seen these heads. Speedmaster

I was checking through Jegs and I came upon these. Very interesting.
But both valves were not available. Anyone ever know anything about these.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/746/PCE281.1728/10002/-1

Ted

They are also known as Procomp heads before the name change.

I bought a pair directly from the "manufacturer" (undoubtedly somewhere in China) a couple of months ago, for just $502 shipped. I also asked about them here on Moparts, and there's a pretty good thread.

1. Yes, it's the latest version of the Procomp/Speedmaster clone of the early 75 cc chamber Edelbrock Victor, with their CNC-ported option.

2. Dwayne Porter (fast68plymouth) has a fairly recent thread about a set he prepped, which I'd recommend searching for should you have more-than-casual interest in them. Like anything, you need to be aware of the good and the bad, since you really do get what you pay for.

3. You don't want Procomp/Speedmaster valves, anyway. The Edelbrock Victor 2.20" intake x 1.81" exhaust valves are much higher quality and can be purchased in sets of 8 each separately for a reasonable price (figure about $300 +/- for a full compliment of valves).

4. Keep in mind that these heads require offset intake rockers, too. I think the minimum that works is .600", with some brands having a bit more or less than that. IIRC, the Procomps also require a good bit of clearancing for the intake pushrods, too.

IHTH...

Do a little research on the part number you’re looking at.
Jegs has it listed as a “cnc” head, but on the speedmaster site, that part number is for an “as cast” head.
I’m guessing they mean “cnc machined”........ not “cnc ported”.

At the Jegs price, that’s pretty cheap money, but they’ll take a little work to before they could be run, and as Brad stated, they take non-std intake rockers.

I’d stay clear of the speedmaster/procomp valves.

BIG difference between the two; I didn't pick up on that.

I remember this mag article had those heads with ton$$ of work done to them.

Fun reading but most will definitely not climb to that level.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-get-755hp-from-your-wedge-mopar/

There are some threads I started within the last few(?) years that cover some porting & flow test results that might be of interest. "The Search function is your friend."

The good news is those heads are cheap. The bad news that they won't be so cheap by the time you get them working correct. But they sure are cheap!

Seriously if you are really interested in those heads then the best thing to do is to contact Porter Racing Heads and get a quote for what those heads will be finished and ready to bolt on an engine. With rocker arms, valves, springs, seals, machine work and assembly you're probably looking at something in the $4000 range. That will tell you the true price of those heads.

If you already have a set of good rocker arms then the TF heads would most likely be cheaper in the long run. And the TF heads will probably make more power.

If you have nothing, then you have to buy rockers, head bolts, etc for whatever heads you’re going to use, and Hughes sells rockers for these heads for similar money as the HS rockers for many other heads, so that’s more or less a wash.

If you bought the bare heads from Jegs for $725/pr....... and used decent quality parts in them, and the basic labor operations on them to make them usable, along with a mild bowl blend....... you’d have around $1900 into a set of assembled/ready to bolt on heads.

For that kind of money, there are what I would consider “better” options out there.

I just don't understand why guys have to buy the cheapest of the cheap for what is something so important in making big power from an engine. I truly understand budgets but man is this a bad place to cheap out. Good-luck.

They are only "cheap" if you can do most of the work yourself. That still doesn't make up for the quality of the materials.

A lot of guys over on Abodys only we’re buying small block Speedmaster heads over the weekend. eBay list had them 35% off.

I'll admit I'm one of those who ordered a pair of the smallblock heads. I'm also very aware that I might/will have to do work/spend more money/time on these heads.
I will disassemble them completely before use and will correct any issues I might find.
But for me, the heads will end up on a daily driven car with mild performance. No 'racing' camshaft with matching springrates or anything.

I have been eyeballing (your findings on) the Sidewinder SB-heads for a while and am really interested in them. But the total costs on my doorstep didn't jive with the purpose of the engine they would end up on.

Also, and it's not that I don't trust the judgement of the pro enginebuilders over here ofcourse, but where are all those pics/threads/experiences of peeps who bought these cheap heads and where valves/guides or anything else has failed?

I hope for everyone that QC, etc., has improved to where that type of incident is truly isolated.

However, there have been legit issues in the past (whether posted on here or not). David Vizard mentioned having received a set of BB Chevy Procomp heads some time back at the same time as a friend who was a pro engine builder. Vizard said before he ever started working on his set, the other guy said the heads he dynoed dropped a valve seat insert or two, at which point DV turned his into shop door stops, IIRC.

Nothing is "bullet proof"... but some products are less "bullet proof" than others.

I wonder what happened to doctor J or whatever his name was that always pushed these heads.

I bought a set of the Air Wolf heads from Dr J., and from what I heard from everyone else, they were basically the Pro Comp casting with his CNC port put on them. No idea if the guides or seats were upgraded. The selling point for me was a 220CC intake port without offset rockers. With a 4.125 stroke 428 Bloomer short block I knew I needed port volume.

My cooling system is lacking in the Valiant, and on the street this engine is almost always 210 or hotter, yet I've completed 5 drag weeks without a single issue. Two times NA 10.39-128 best, three times with nitrous, 9.43-139 best. So, if these castings are indeed Pro Comps I'd say they are good pieces. If anyone was likely to drop a seat it would be me, the way I've treated these things!

I really wanted CNC ported Indy 360-1s, but when I heard guys talking about buying three heads to get two that would hold water it scared me off! These were testimonials from guys who loved their 360-1s, and they would smile and say, "Once you get them lined out and not leaking water they are awesome"! No Thanks!

If you don't mind my asking...why did using an offset rocker bother you?

As for the particular heads in question at the beginning of this thread....... if the budget is the primary concern......Jegs is selling the assembled version of this head for under $1000.

If someone were looking to truely keep the costs down, you could buy those, only correct any issues you may find, and after the spring rates have been verified....... select a cam that would be suitable for use with them........ and off you go.

I’m sure you would still be able to build a 550hp+ 493/505 without any trouble.

Like with anything......... it just depends on what your needs are, and just making sure you’re buying parts that are suitable for your goals.

Billy do you know who has the CNC program for these heads? I would assume that they are the same as a procomp head which my local machine shop has sold piles of and has had no issues.

Last year Black Friday sale was almost funny how cheap those heads were direct from speedmaster. I have a pair of stealths and trick flows. I didn’t have the need for another set of heads. I did do a lot of reading on them at the time though.

Marty,
This is the part that is so aggravating. Dr. J, Bryce Mulvey, was the guy who made the 220 CNC program. After he went through a divorce, lost his business, and screwed over a bunch of people, (I think he now works at CP pistons) no one attempted to buy the program. The Procomp heads are 171cc as cast, and there is a 191cc CNC port available, but nothing close to what Bryce was doing.



Madscientist,
The Drag Week thing is much like an endurance type situation. So a dependable valve train is a must. When I look at guys with big roller cams and Aluminum Rockers such as Indy, T&D, or Harlan Sharp, the rockers they always break are the offset intake rockers.

The Crane Golds I re-used on my engine have been in service since the late nineties. As are the 1 7/8 headers. I chose a mild 300/600 flat tappet cam, and beehive springs.

I don't think it's an exaggeration to say that this simple, lightweight valvetrain saved me twenty-five hundred bucks over a big roller cam, big spring pressure, offset rocker, custom header top-end. I'm certainly giving up power, but I feel the savings and the reliability are worth the trade-off.

I remember Dr J complaining that Edelbrock wouldn’t remove the water cooling passage on the bottom of the intake runner. Speedmaster did so you would t be able to run his cnc pattern on Edelbrock heads without hitting water.

Billy do you know who has the CNC program for these heads? I would assume that they are the same as a procomp head which my local machine shop has sold piles of and has had no issues. [/quote]

Marty,
This is the part that is so aggravating. Dr. J, Bryce Mulvey, was the guy who made the 220 CNC program. After he went through a divorce, lost his business, and screwed over a bunch of people, (I think he now works at CP pistons) no one attempted to buy the program. The Procomp heads are 171cc as cast, and there is a 191cc CNC port available, but nothing close to what Bryce was doing

If you ever hear of a set for sale let me know, I’m starting a 340 stroker build for my purple beater for the next time we do Drag Week. The goal is to run 10”s n/a ... we have some of the promax heads at the local machine shop that I want to get flowed and see how they do.

Any have these heads? Any opinions on them?
https://promaxxperformance.com/product/shocker-185-mopar-cnc/

Local shop is building a 360 with a 4 inch crank with a set should be on the Dyno early year...the heads look good. I posted a few pictures on for A bodies only. I might get them flowed if I get the chance.