trans slipping, Go back w/727 or glide?

Well, after a few runs with the new motor the trans started sliding on the 2-3 shift. I made it to the finals Sat nite (finished runner up) but the motor flared on the 2-3 shift. Since putting the new motor in it the 2-3 shift has been a bit soft.
Anyway, now I gotta build a trans. I'm running a 470 w/stealth heads and turning 6.06 on a 600' track.(about 10.20 in the full 1/4)2800# Dakota

I have a spare 727 out of a motorhome that should have the 5 disk clutch in it. Should I put a 727 together with a few good parts or go with a glide, witch means modifiy cross member, new drive shaft, adapter kit, shifter, converter?

P.S. I had a 1.341 60ft Sat nite so its leaving hard for my et.

Personally, I would stay W/ the 727. Probably cheaper and with less down time.

Would be alot cheaper to just rebuild what you have
(or the other 727) you would most likely loose some on
your 60' if you changed over to the glide... unless
you have a wheel stand problem

I'm sure you know this, but give the converter a good flush before you put it back in your rebuilt 727

Thanks guys. Thats what I wanted to do but all my Chevy racing buddys about had me brain washed into putting a glide in it.

727 it is!

I would build a glide....As a matter of fact I just built one for my BB Dart project........

I had a 88 Dakota 360 CID Alky small block that ran 9.77 best and without a doubt the powerglide swap was the best thing I ever did to it......

I have that same glide thats 10 years old fresh and ready to go behind my 7.50 dragster when Ryan gets the engine finished for it.....

No way can anyone on here tell me a 727 is any stronger then a glide if both are done properly......

If your running a turbo action v/b change it. The griner flows more fluid to the high gear clutches. I was burning up high gear until i was told about this fix, no more problems for me.

727 all the way, A & A parts best there is, look me up i build alot and know some cool tricks.

Your 60 foot times will likely slow to about 1.38-1.40 range, depending on rear gear choice. Worse if you miss on converter selection. There are many pro/cons to either choice.
Considering you have stealth heads, instead of Edelbrocks or Indys, I'm gonna guess the budget is tight, and to do the PG swap right will easily set you back 2 grand, and that's a basic sportsman glide. On the other hand, a top of the line Griner Brake with LB apply for the 727 is 700$.

How many runs on the 727? Without a brake, we used to run basically stock 727s with transgo FM shift kits at that Hp/Weight level for 3 or 4 hundred passes between clutch replacements.

I like the 727, but for your application with a light vehicle and only running to 600 ft, the PG would make sense. The 1.76/1.80 first gear and all the gear you want in the back (5.13?) since you don't have to worry about running the 1/4 mile. But then it will overrev if you race at another track (1/4 mile).

A simple 727 freshen up with a good valve body is all you need, IMO. And that would be a good low dollar approach.

Thanks for all the help. I've got over 300 passes on the old motor with this trans. running 4.56 gears on a 32" tire. My cheateth vb does not have low band apply but I'm very careful to not roll the tires in first, start my burnout in 2nd and nobody else drives the truck.

I guess I'll save the expense of going with a glide and take the best hard parts from both trans I have, get some good clutches and bands and put in a bolt in spag. Any thing else?

One thing i learned, once metal filings show up anywhere that they can get back into the trans fluid system, you need to either change coolers or add a filter between cooler and trans. Stuff just never comes loose during a flush and cleanup completely, and cost me another build at one time.