What is the lightest 130+ amp Alternator on the market?

I'm getting ready to motorplate my red '66 Charger with an AR plate and ears. After reinstalling the engine about 8 bazillion times over the years my distaste for motor mounts has multiplied lol.

What are you folks running for a compact, high output (130+ amp) v drive pulley alternator? All I have at this point is a stock bolt pattern ATI damper so my options are completely open.

My intention is to eventually convert this car to a Holley Dominator ECU as it is street strip. Here is a list of the power accessories in the car for reference:

Aftermarket Power Windows
Electric 55GPM water pump
Holley Live Dash
Holley ECU (future)
Magnafuel 500
N20 solenoids, fuel/n20/purge
Line Lock/Two Step
MSD 7AL2
Lights!

I think that is it. I'd like to keep the option of adding the heater box and wiper motor back into the mix so overbuilding is okay.

Thoughts?

I can post a few pics but I'm sure you all know what a 511 in a red b body looks like!

Don't think the Magnafuel 500 will work. EFI requires 43 - 58 PSI and the 500 series is made for carbs. Put the EFI pump in now so you don't have to change it later.

Also, the 7AL2 is a noisy box that I call a "lightning generator". Unless you already own the 7AL2 I would strongly suggest a more modern ignition box, even CNP if you really want a noise free installation.

Hi Rich,

I'm getting away from the Magnafuel 500 and 7AL2 to go with CnP and a Dominator ECU, no distributor or MSD once we go EFI. We have been rocking the 7AL2 and 500 pump for a long time now so it's here already. It has always been pretty reliable FWIW.

We will install the Holley dash as a stand-alone and most likely the Dominator ECU for DAQ and N20 progressive. My plan is to get the car wired up with the Dominator and Live Dash and get it running on the MSD/Quickfuel combo.

Part of that plan is to get another 400-2 Indy manifold and have it ported and bung'd.


What do you like for a "clean" Alternator? I am in the telecom industry so DC power systems are a specialty of mine. It would be cool to get all of my non-efi wiring in the car the first time don't you think? An 8.50 cage makes these tasks a little harder once the dash, etc. is back in.

Let me sell you the Holley stuff. Check out my Mopar CNP stuff on my site under products.

I like the Denso alternators. One of my favorites is the race Powermaster 8142

130 amps is about the limit on a single V belt, and you have to have the belt really tight. Slippage and squealing can be a problem.

I would go with the 120 amp denso from a police duty Diplomat. Ive used these on 3 different cars without any issues. They are externally regulated. The stock voltage regulator on your car will control it perfectly, or later when you go with The Dominator system, you could control it with that. You could create a table to output higher or lower output in the advanced tables depending on any input the ecu can read.

That's the plan man. I'll take a look at the 8142. After talking with my old boss, a retired SCCA Trans Am racer, he said most of the cars he had worked on had Denso power. Very few still used the CS series GM alternators.

I'm really excited to get the Holley dash. '66 Charger gauge cluster has been a PITA for my entire ownership of the car. A couple of hard launches and the electroluminescent or whatever they are called lights would develop a circuit disruption due to dash flex (my hypothesis). Then of course you get shocked with 200+ VAC trying to sort the issue out. No more of that distraction to going fast lol.

I'll look into that. Must have been late like 87-89? Did they make a Dippy in 90? My last one was a Slinger Stinger lol. Thanks for the advice sir!

That was my next question! I was contemplating running a 4S pulley if I can find a single in the Mopar damper pattern.

I'd rather spend the time to set up a serpentine than deal with premature bearing failure due to over-tightening the belts to keep everything kosher. The local parts store guys used to groan when we brought in reman stockers that killed the bearings because we kept them TIGHT to keep the belts at RPM. Never had much of an issue until we exceeded 6500ish RPM now that I think about it.

Hard launches will take a toll on those rotating headlights, too.

Want to sell that MagnaFuel500 pump? If so let me know.

First mockup of Denso 136 Amp Dodge Truck alternator on the 400/500" stroker. back of pivot bolt is held with a tab welded to the valley tray hold down bar. Belt wraps a good amount of the pulley and is a fairly short belt, so no slippage and never has thrown a belt at 7,000+ RPM.

I might have a 300 if you can use it. My red car left-overs will migrate to the black 440 -1 powered, lenco 4-speed Charger over time. I was trying to keep that build old school with the t-ram, carbs, etc. Never thought I'd be calling my QF 1050-AN's old school but they are.

Does anyone have experience with the 440 source serpentine pulleys? I'd like to install the six rib setup on a Powermaster or Denso unit.

Question on the Powermaster stuff - is it made in the USA and do they make their own components? I'd lean that way over a 120A Denso as the units listed are Chinese reproductions. I didn't see any actual OEM Denso manufactured unit. I will definitely be going with an external regulator unless there is a reason not to. Is there one?

451Mopar, is that alternator internally or externally regulated? I prefer internally regulated just to clean up the wiring some, and not have to mount the external voltage regulator somewhere. I also prefer a 3 wire, not a one wire. They provide a dash light if desired, and an exciter wire at the alt, not having to sense the voltage drop at the battery.