Using a box truck as a race car hauler???

Anybody ever use a box truck for a race car hauler? I sold my enclosed trailer and believe I can purchase a box truck and install a shower and toilet and register it as an RV to get lower RV insurance. The cost is about the same as the new enclosed trailer. What’s the downside is that you see?

Not so easy to get a existing commercial truck registered as a RV.

The bed of your trailer is 4 feet off the ground.

The suspension on the truck is built for lot's of weight, the ride will be very rough inside the box unless you run it at max capacity. Even then the ride will suck.

Even though you might get lucky and be able to get RV plates for it and max it out with the nicest RV stuff, it will still look like a truck and the DOT will look at you all the more because you will be a hi-bred.

Why do you think it will be less insurance cost since it is a truck?

I think you will have more trouble finding insurance for it since it is a truck and you say it is a RV...coming from someone whom has had a truck RV for 16 years now.

The upside is you will have HD RV and race trailer...I like that part!
This chassis was built at freightliner as a RV chassis from new and has different features than a commercial truck to help it ride better for one.

The ride and HD factor is workable, getting past the DOT as a motor home shouldn't be ruffer than converting a school bus just not sure about the insurance.

I see the height of the box as the biggest draw back. I did see a fellow use one a few years ago and he got around that problem by installing a hyd ram to the front of the truck. It was on a rotating mount, so that when he got to the track, he would pull a pin, rotate the ram vertical and raise the front of the truck 3-4 feet in the air, unload the car and set the truck back on the ground. He could also use it to help level the truck somewhat. If I remember correctly, he used a ram off of some type of heavy machinery (dozer maybe?) and the pump & controls off of a wood splitter. Worked pretty good.

Brian

I agree, but one item not yet mentioned, what GVW are we talking and/or air brakes? Those details will complicate your plans and on the road enforcement scrutiny, especially when outside your home state.

You thinking is fairly sound, but the constantly tightening DOT regulations may make you wish you had non descript tag along behind a PU..

I’ve been looking and thinking for a while.I was told to register it as an RV I will need 4 things which include shower, toilet, electrical and plumbing. I will ad RV windows and wrap it so it looks like full body paint. This truck has a 4400# lift gate that I will use slide in ramps to extend the so the rear tires can sit on. It is also on air ride. It also has a passenger side door with steps to get in and out of so your not climbing in and out of the 4’ high box. Great input keep the info coming.

If it is registered as a motorhome, then the weight don't mater.

Anything goes if it has motorhome plates.

But like I said, I think many are under estimating being able to get those plates and the cost of insurance?

I agree with the opinions given so far. I drive a box truck a few days a week at my job. The ride is rough, ( make sure truck you are looking at least has an air ride seat) , maintenance is a lot more in a truck that size, depending on GVW you will have to pull in to open DOT scales for weight, also depending on GVW you may need a CDL in N.J. its over 26,000 lbs. Depending on height you have to be aware of bridge heights.( P.S. the body on the truck in the picture looks high) DOT officers are always doing spot checks and you could be targeted, also I know around here you have to follow truck routes as some streets and roads have weight limits the list goes on and on….

One time with my poor wife we detoured off the interstate around a major accident. She points to the right and says that was the truck route...me keeps going cause the car GPS had said so. Got to a low overpass RR and had to backup that red rigg and a 49' race trailer for 3 blocks in a small town. Embarrassing! Should listened to her and got a truck GPS right after that. We treat ours like a truck when we travel in it which has been a lot.

I see you are in Texas , any vehicle 26,001 gvwr or over , you will need a class B license ( even for a motorhome ).

That high deck is going to be rough to load/unload, imho.


Paul

Pretty sure that truck above is rated at 25999 lbs just under the CDL requirement. That truck appears to be a med moving truck. 250-300hp

The 26000 or more CDL is a federal law, same in every state.

If I recall correctly when the factory teams had box trucks they had ramps inside the truck box that angled the race car up rather steeply.

In Florida, DOT goes by the highest weight for enforcement/penalty, or as it weighs as it sits, as it is registered, or what the OEM door tag states, meaning, you can not register it under weight, other then for the tag costs.

In Florida I got a lot of DMV static trying to register a box truck to RV status, and decided not to continue the mods, as the it was not certain it RV status would be given.

I have been looking for that type of hauler but they are kind of rare. They seem to be more popular in Europe.

That high deck is the killer.. I made up a
flat bed version and got rid of it in short
time.. if your car is low you will need some
real long ramps

One of the differences is the location of the truck frames, there are differences. That hauler above has low and narrow frame like a motorhome unlike a truck chassis.

It's a tempting idea, but the Oleyniks we used had beavertails and much lower rear sill (floor) height; yet the ramps still had to be at least 8 feet long and positively lock into the sill.
Very tough deal to modify the rear rails & floor to make a beavertail out of a "normal" box truck.
I've seen some moving vans that sit lower, but still iffy on load height and then there's the wheelwells.
Medium-duty truck maintenance is not like working on a pickup; stuff might last longer, but it's half again as large and seems like triple the weight!
We'd get a million miles or so out of a GMC 6500, but any wheel/tire/suspension/brake/drivetrain maintenance was a back-breaker.

The best deal for this style is the 26' U Haul truck. Lower than any box truck and most can drop down several inches in the rear. All aluminum floor. Modern GM V8 with auto/OD. I saw a racer from the west coast do this. He opted out of the sides and roll up door. Used the frame for the roll up door as an attachment for his crane.

Many early touring semi and professional SS and Pro Stock racers used box truck for hauling there cars
No reason why you can't, Bob Mazolini used one for a short while back in the early 1980s, I think. Same thing on John Dianna, Bob "bucks up" Lambeck, Paul Rossi, Butch Leal and many other racers from division Seven

same here thought it would be cool to make one of these into a hauler

I don't like towing with a trailer. I have an open trailer(budgetary constraints). I've looked at all the permutations and a truck with a trailer is the only solution other than flat towing(remember those MW free towing hubs, I love them). Maintenance on a box truck as a hauler is much more expensive. The gas and insurance and the local or state police looking for $omething($). They are easier to park and they are easier on the road since you don't have that trailer behind you and idiots all around you. And of course it is a dedicated vehicle. You can unhook a trailer and then pick up a washer or parts or whatever.

But the U hauls do not have flat floors, they have internal wheel wells, and they are IMO kinda of sissy trucks? Not sure what the real advantage is.

Linky -> Bill Jenkins car hauler box truck on bring a trailer in 2007

I believe this was also owned by Steve Snyder of Elkhart Indiana at one time and used to haul his 62 Pontiac Catalina.

Probably 24" from the ground and it drops another 10. The wheelwells are only 5" tall. Lower shorter ramps.

What is the disadvantage of just using a 4400# lift gate for the car and a walk through door on the side?

The further you have the deck out in-order to have your car sit on it the load on the hydraulics will exceed the lift capability.

I got my box truck/hauler home after a 1500 mile drive. It’s a little under powered with a 5.9 Cummins but some 75hp injectors will help. It drove like a dream and for $20k I couldn’t replace my enclosed trailer for the price. Hopefully now the lift gate will lift my car. It’s a 4400# lift gate but 1/2 the car will be on extended ramps!

A just drove a mid 70's 400 sbc enclosed car hauler. They are all stick and the ratio spread of the trans is horrible. Hard to get up to speed and 60 mph is the max. I've been in the $250 K haulers, 75 mph, and after that I never wanted to pull a trailer. Reality check...I don't have that kind of money. There has to be some kind of happy medium.

Yes,the Oleyniks built most of the haulers back in the day including the 77 S&M hauler now owned by a close friend.The 413 has been replaced with a Cummings out of a pickup along with the dash being grafted into the cab.The 2 speed rear is disconnected but I could not keep up to it with my 2010 Hino rollback.So maybe more boost or a gear change could help that issue.
One other thing,air brakes are an endorsement only on a CDL.......

I think you're going to be disappointed with that lift gate plan. Take a look at how the gate works on a stacker trailer as that's where you're going to end up I think.

The rest of the plan sounds good. If Texas won't let you register it as a motorhome after the required components are installed and I seriously doubt they won't, find a state that will.

What year is the truck? Those 75 hp injectors are usually a 12 Valve deal which is 98 and older. If it's got a common rail injected engine, 2003 or newer IIRC, more power is a Bullydog tuner or preferred brand away. No hardware changes unless you're planning to get silly. The 98.5 - 2002 24V with the VP44 pump doesn't have as much tuner support but 75-100 hp can be had with an Edge EZ box and no hardware changes.

What trans and rear axle ratio?

Kevin

This was $20k and I figured I may have another $15k in when I’m done with bathroom and kitchenette, insulation and AC.

It’s a 2000. There are a lot of injector choices out there and I still may go with a tuner. I may need to get creative with the lift gate .

Do be cautious with the liftgate idea. With all due respect, I'd suggest some professional advice to determine if it would be cost effective, if even safely possible.

Neat truck but, I think you are going to run into problems with your plan

What's the actual weight of your car? I think the liftgate issue is the weakest part of your plan. I work on a number of those things, and they're designed for load center much shorter(closer to the truck) than a car. Pallets and the like.

Is it air ride? I would look at ramps, as opposed to the liftgate unless your car is under 3000lbs or so, you're just asking for catastrophic fail otherwise. S/F....Ken M

Thanks for all the input. Worse case I have a line of a full lift gate made to lift car. We will see how it all goes... Maybe I should test it with my wife’s car when she is not home. Lol 😂

THERE'S an idea!!! Lol

Kevin

Does it have a Jake Brake on the truck now? If not I would add it for safely stopping it
I agree on not using that lift gate to support the car while traveling
I've owned and used a bunch of different car trailesr and car hauler trucks from one ton crew cabs with open beds and ramps to a early Dodge D500 with a flat head six and a two speed rear axle that ended up with a 392 Hemi in it, which helped that old rascal a bunch
I wrecked (totaled) a friends car on a borrowed open trailer that total the Hemi GTX NHRA stocker and hurt the trailer and my 1/2 ton Ford pickup due to not having enough stopping power to avoid a dog running out in front of the truck on the way to the races, the dog got hung up the right front wheel well and jerk the steering wheel out of my hand which resulted in jack knifing the car and trailer Multiple mistakes compounded and ruined our day
I've not towed anything with a 1/2 ton pickup since, that accident happened in 1973

JCC
you would just build ramps over the wheel wells. Saw that in a hauler that Mr. 4 Speed Herb McCandless had back in 72 for his Pro Stock Demon. The car was not hauled Flat, It was on a tilt like on an open Ramp Truck.

I will be putting a jake brake on it. It does have new brakes and drums all the way around and the brakes are air brakes. Safety will always be first. I will always own a newer 3/4 or 1 ton truck. I have a new 3500 dually with 1500 miles on it to tow if needed. I really bought the truck because I think it will be cool/convenient when done. To be honest with all my time being taken with businesses and with young kids I may not race for a few years anyways. It will be fun to tinker on and make just the way I want it when time allows.

Google is your friend, check out Kentucky High Tech race transporter lift gates and Feather lite race transporters . By the way I think your truck will make a great hauler. You'll make money by not having to buy trailer tires over and over. 3-4 thousand pounds in the back of that truck, piece of cake. And for maintenance , I would think changing the fluids once year unless your a pro racer who drives coast to coast multiple times per year you'll be all set.

How long is the box and how long is your car??? Where will the abode and other necessities go

Thanks

It is a 25’ box with a 4’ overcab. Bed above the cab, shower and toilet in a small bathroom in the left front corner of the box. Small kitchenette next to bathroom and stairs on far right for cabover bed. 22’ of floor space left. Hot water heater/plumbing, electrical, generator in boxes on driver side of truck. Tool boxes, jack, and chairs and BBQ in right side under boxes and a split Air unit mount on top of cab with air damn around it. 11/2” foam insulation in walls and 2” in roof. Not sure if I’m going to put a Gemini stacker lift in it. The inside is 9’ so I will need to do some further investigation. Either way it will get finished out like a toy hauler with windows interior paneling and outlets to run higher end air mattresses. The unit will have carbon air filtration and ozone to remove any gas, oil and car odors. Once I figure out the lift works for me or not I found 13’ long aluminum ramps 10k axle capacity to possibly extend the lift gate. The cab will be updated with Nav, 13” dvd TVs and black zebra wood overlay on dash and doors and new carpet. Seats are clean and perfect with dr seatair ride. We will see how it turns out.

Keep us updated on this venture!

No matter how robust a truck may be, its handling is effected by weight distribution, anything high up, and to the rear of the rear axle, with high side walls, gets real squirrelly in high winds and/or rough roads. Air ride does not help unless you have rear swaybars. A car lifter rail gate is heavy by itself, and unfortunately, all the weight is at the very rear, and above the floor. maybe in your conversion to a RV, you can add up front a cast iron bath tub for balance.

This load balance issue is very difficult to correct after the fact. The pictured truck already has significant rear overhang, IMO.

I think I would try to locate a used cheep small travel trailer to pull out the items you need , toilet , holding tank, fresh water tank etc. Hopefully the tanks will fit in the underbody storage compartments.

I agree on the balance of weight. The holding tanks and other things will be mounted as far forward as possible.i have access to large scales and it will be taken in to consideration. Not sure on the lift inside yet. Thanks for the input.

No matter how robust a truck may be, its handling is effected by weight distribution, anything high up, and to the rear of the rear axle, with high side walls, gets real squirrelly in high winds and/or rough roads. Air ride does not help unless you have rear swaybars. A car lifter rail gate is heavy by itself, and unfortunately, all the weight is at the very rear, and above the floor. maybe in your conversion to a RV, you can add up front a cast iron bath tub for balance.

This load balance issue is very difficult to correct after the fact. The pictured truck already has significant rear overhang, IMO.
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These are great ideas! Thanks. Not wanting to use low end items so I’m buying all new. Ronco plastics in Ca can make any size/shape tank I need. I will be using a porcelain RV toilet and a full massage shower enclosure. This should keep the wife and kids comfortable and happy. I sold a 42’ diesel pusher not long ago so my wife will need some comfort.

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That is a 6500 series GMC which should be rated for a 5 ton payload. It will haul a 3000 odd lb race car around like it isn't there. The centre of gravity of a car is probably no higher than a pallet of beer and probably doesn't weigh any more that 2 pallets.

Kevin

Over on the truck conversion forums, there is a concern about getting too much weight on the front axle (over weight capacity). The consensus there is to move as much weight rearward as possible. Lots of weight carrying capability back there.

Just to clarify, my concern mentioned about was not the amount of weight, its the balance between the rear and the front axle, AND if a lot of that weight is rear of rear axle, its not fun to drive. I believe others that have driven poorly balanced load straight trucks can confirm. I also believe a "stacker" puts a car lot higher then ground stacked normal pallet loads, if I understand the correct use here of a car hauler "stacker".

I would weigh the truck now and get the front axle and rear axle weights and write them down so you can use that information on where to install the fresh water, grey and black water tank locations
I was thinking the ten lug wheels where for a higher GVW truck, what is the max GVWR of your truck now?

The rear axle will be rated at 20,000 lbs, the front will be 12,000 lbs. That's 32,000 lbs gross weight. I'm pretty sure he intends to haul the car on the floor of the box.

Kevin

How do you know the above mentioned info, I didn't see the OP share it.

It could be spec'd lighter but 10 stud hubs usually indicate a 12/20 combo. Air ride suspension is only available on 19,000 lb axles and bigger so I think it's safe to assume it's more than sufficient.

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/191/2008_MD_ConventionalCab2.pdf


Kevin

As long as you mention the assume part for the OP, it makes sense, however my experience with custom ordered trucks, you can order nearly anything custom, and GVW will be limited by the weakest link of the build specs, be that tires, brakes, drivetrain, axles, frame rails (alloy/size), suspension, rims, tires, etc. I am sure there are plenty of combinations the OEM will not build. But if the customer wants a 26K GVW with big brakes rated for much higher GVW, they likely can build it, for example. The OP's truck might be custom spec'd, and as I touched on before, needs to be careful he doesn't build himself into an expensive corner that is not suitable for his needs.

The OP can verify what he has by checking the decal on the door post. It will show axle weight ratings, registered gross weight etc.

Kevin

We just bought a 2018 F-750 at work. for $120 ford takes takes the 33,000 GVW sticker off and slaps one on that says 25,999lbs to keep you out of CDL territory. So there is no telling how his truck is rated, i agree it should be sufficient though.

Never heard of that option before. Sounds strange. Also a loophole to escape excise taxes, that would likely close in the future.

edit:
In this case I believe "heavy" means over 55K GVW?,

https://www.ttnews.com/articles/senate-bill-would-repeal-federal-excise-tax-heavy-truck-sales

This truck does not have a air ride chassis. It is very stable with a little cross winds and in turns. It feels much more stable than my 42’ diesel pusher motorhome I had. It does have air brakes and an air ride seat. Being a F750 it is a heavy duty chassis for a medium duty truck . The GVW is 26,000 lbs on the door and that’s one of the reasons I bought it. Company do conversions all the time and register trucks as RVs. I’m not to concerned about weight since the max I will add will be under 10k when it is outfitted with my car in it. The attached picture may help some of you concerned about licensing.

Does anyone have a trailer or truck with an car Liftgate? If so, are you happy with it and what brand is it? I will start researching this also as an alternative. I don’t mind on spending $10-15k if my truck turns out the way I want.

I can't give you a reference but I would look for something that would normally go on the back of a stacker trailer or semi. Some of the high end trailer manufactures may be able to give you a recommendation.

Sorry if this is a duplicate recommendation I did not look at all the posts above.

These 13’ ramps work great! I think this will be the perfect hauler!!! Can’t wait to do the rest of the conversion of the RV features.

Just to be on the safe side, have you considered some type of support leg in the middle of the ramps?

A properly located "escape" door might be useful, but that's a good drop.

Is that interior at least as wide as a regular car trailer?

Yes I’m going to add a security leg and the truck is getting a 10,000 lbs winch. Even with my previous enclosed trailer I used a winch. I feel it is a much safer and controllable load. Being 6’3” 300 lbs never gave me much option to load my cars with cages in an enclosed anyway! Lol

When I hauled all over the country with a 44' 4-car stacker we researched it quite a lot. We came to the conclusion that a fold down door with a winch was the best set-up. If you have a hydraulic lift gate and it breaks down, your cars are NOT coming out of the trailer! With a door, if the winch breaks, you can still get the door down and go to anywhere and buy a new winch.

I cant tell by the pic, but how does the ramps secure to the tailgate/door?

I drilled a hole in the ramp in the door and welded a half inch coarse thread nut on the backside of the door. A bolt will go through the ramp and door. I plan to drill more holes and weld more nuts to the door so the width of the ramps can easily adjust in and out. The ramps slide very easy in and out of the truck.

I'm surprised no one here has bought this yet.
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/dodge/d700/2136092.html

I own a box truck car hauler(and it is for sale), but these things are not very user friendly