RacePak user???

Pulled the trigger on a Sportsman RacePak. Wondering what everyone keeps track of? My main concern is engine RPM, and driveshaft RPM for clutch slippage.

I monitor both G meters voltage . Engine RPM drive shaft rpm. fuel pressure crankcase vacuum O2 s on both sides. And oil pressure.. seems like there's something else I'm. Forgetting

You will want everything. Sensors are addictive. And they are legit. When you have a transmission problem you will look at your pressure etc. I had 22 on the Avenger and wanted more. Now they have tire temp, track temp (I didn't have those). Here is a real life case of why you want sensors. My Neon had fuel pressure for the nitrous system. So if I would have looked at my graph I would have seen that the fuel solenoids weren't opening. There would have been a blip there (or should I say lack of one). I damaged my engine and the Racepak would have saved me.

Idiot me have had mine for over 4 years and never bought a new yoke so I can add my driveshaft sensor.

Oil pressure
Water temp
Trans temp
O2 sensor
Egt added last year
G force
Fuel pressure
May have to add some I forgot to list.

o2,intake air temp,drive shaft,boost and the rest is standard.

Stick car - RPM, input shaft speed, driveshaft speed, Gs are the main ones. I'd like to see shock travel as well.

Is the G meter already part of the RacePak? I like the idea of monitoring the oil pressure, and fuel pressure. Any extra advice is greatly appreciated.

All info is good info but shortly after I bought mine my oil pressure was jumping to 130 pounds PLUS during a pass. If not caught who knows what might have happened. A simple pump change fixed it.

. There are several ways of monitoring fuel pressure high pressure at the pump.low pressure after the regulator. I would recommend low pressure after the regulator providing you have a carburetor 0 to 15 psi. Sensor. My cars fuel pressure was all over the board at speed. the race pack really help us tune all the issues out of it car actually picked up quite a bit of ET after I got it squared away

RPM,water temp,OP are part of the basic logger.

I like having driveshaft or wheel speed data. I would also like a G force meter, that is one of things Scott Brown used to make such big strides with Capone on drag week. He changed his shift point based on data from the g-meter and picked up .1.

Are you running the dash unit Jeff?

No. Not much of a fan of that look. Trying to keep the car looking old school. I'll most likely hide the Racepack somewhere it's not too obvious, but yet I can access it easily.

Just something I will add. I bought the sportsman model and the display dash. About 1 1/2 years later my dash lights dimmed and are worthless. 2 years later I am still needing a flashlight to monitor my engine temps while in the staging lanes at night. If I remember right when I called I think he said it would be around 150-200.00 to repair it. I would never pay to hat much to repair it and I will not be putting the dash readout in my heads up car. I may try to fix it myself this winter while freshening the engine.

RacePak also has analog gauges which are pretty bitchen. No temp. or pressure sensors in the package. G's, rpm, driveshaft rpm and a 12V event. Most cars I've seen have them mounted flat about midway up in the car. I mounted mine flat and low in the car because my car is, well, low...Call Figspeed for good prices and on track knowledge on the sensors.

Prices are pretty price controlled so I bought my second one with a 10% off Summit coupon

I have the logger dash.

I just bought the IQ3 Logger Drag dash.

I liked that the SD card is handy to get to on the face.

It comes with oil pres. and water temp sensors.

You might consider an EFI controller to run your igntion system, it will also datalog anything and everything you could want and not be tied to special racepak $ensors.

Just sent mine in for backlight issue and I was told $60 plus shipping. Should be back this week.

M


For that I would consider it. I kinda like to tinker so not sure which way I will go. Kinda hate paying twice

On one car V500

oil temp
oil pressure
water temp
fuel pressure high
fuel pressure carb
fuel pressure nitrous X2
trans temp
trans pressure
voltage
crank case vac
DS speed
front and rear shock position/ and velocity
8 channel AF
8 EGT
nitrous pressure
G's
grid


another car, D logger dash

oil pressure
water temp
trans temp
trans pressure
voltage
fuel pressure carb
fuel pressure nitrous
1 channel AF
DS speed
rear shock position/velocity
nitrous pressure
crank case vac
G's
grid

I was just called and it is confirmed. $65 to repair. Having it sent back 2nd day for $20. They received it Wednesday of last week.

Here’s another issue I ran into once. I raced in the No Box Bonaza at Norwalk a few years ago and if you closely read the rules it says no data recorders. When I told him my RacePak dash was hooked to my data recorder it was needed to see my oil pressure, water temps, and other required info. He said I could not run the race. After some more calls I was told to remove the sd card and put a wire tie around it that could be inspected at any time. Gauges for me for now on.

Oh and I won’t pay them 85.00 to repair their junk. It should have been covered for the period I had it. I’ll fix it.

That rule kept me from using a Racepak. New for 2018 data recorders are now legal in Pro et.

copied from et section
COMPUTER
Prohibited. See General Regulations 9:1.
DATA RECORDER
Data recorders are permitted in Advanced E.T., Super Pro,
and Pro only. Data recorders (except for “playback”-type
tachometers) are prohibited in all other E.T. classes. See General
Regulations 9:2.

The data will spoil ya quick.

There are so many small things you'll find to hone in on.

I spent a lot of time working on stabilizing my fuel pressures. I went from 30 pounds on the high side, down to 18 high. To get there, I had to drill out the bypass, change springs, change return lines ect. End result is carb, and nitrous pressures that vary less than .25 pounds from line to stripe


Trying to get the car to go dead straight is another g meter function you can play with forever lol. I need to install steering input sensor so I can id the culprit in my mid track wanderings.

Being able to tie the Grid into the racepak is fantastic. I found a faulty WOT switch from the connection. I had this fluctuation going on, that was the switch dropping out for just a split second. When I laid the step retard on the graph I saw the trouble. Could have chased that for a while without the data.

IMO it depends on your goals and what you are trying to accomplish. For the bracket guy Oil press, fuel press, trans temp, water temp and vacuum would be all I would be concerned with. It comes with the G meters and voltage and driveshaft RPM. IMO driveshaft ROM and G meter will tell you a TON about how the car is working. Many people overlook the G meter and wheelspeed early in the run, it is the difference between and great running car and an average running one. As for engine vitals, engine vacuum will be your best friend here as far as ring seal and overall engine health. Oil pressure is nice the rest just seem to be stuff people want to see.

As for me I have a ton, never a thing as to much info...

For those running a Dana 60, how did you mount your drive shaft sensor?

I mounted mine to read the wheel studs, I am not sure if the racepak can give readings for this but my EFI can. Its just OK I liked it better when I had a sensor on the yoke with my 8.75 and I will be trying to do this for my Dana in the future.

My moser yoke for my 8.75 had a provision for a sensor ring, the moser yoke for my Dana did not, that is what you get for assuming lol.

I put the tone ring on my output shaft and drilled and tapped a hole in the tail shaft. Can swap between my 727 and 904. Not sure if you can do that on a manual trans.... but it’s an idea you can look into

I have a Mark Williams yoke on my Dana 60 right now, but it doesn't have room for a ring. The Strange Billet yoke does, and I'll be going with one of those. Wonder if drilling and tapping a couple 1/4-20 holes in the case would be OK?

I can't remember if there is room to do something like this on the Dana. I really want to change, haven't been real happy with the wheel stud reading because it has a blip in it likely from one of the studs being farther away than the others. The moser 5/8 studs aren't real consistent on the back side.

This is the motion race works kit for a ford 8.8