512 build

Finally going to build my 1st stroker motor this fall, and am getting a parts list ready. Plan is to build a 512 with 10.5:1 compression, use right around .600 lift solid flat tappet (try to cam it so I can shift around 6,000). Use my current heads (Trick Flow 240's) and will be using my TTI 1 3/4 headers (I'm sure it will choke it some, maybe update them down the road at some point). Trying to decide between doing a 400-512 or 440-512 build. Any suggestions on which block to use for how I'm plan on building it? Is there another stroker combo that would work better with the TF 240's?

We did the Rb/511/trick flow 240/2 inch tti- 650 hp.
See Dewayne for Cam, we also had him check the heads.
our compression is 10.74

440 Source lightweight stroker kit.
we have an M1 intake as well as the Trick flow, it was deep port matched by hughs.
holley ultra xp 950 ( that was a mistake, carb was bad out of the box etc), Had Jim Parr precision carbs build us an 850 thats flowing about 930cfm.
starts nice, idles nice for the cam , street/strip set up.
cam is 630/630 258/264@50 110 ( if memory serves, see Dewayne.

How quick is that combo and in what weight car?

AndyF has a 400 and 440 stroker piston selection chart in the tech section that is helpful.

I built a 505" based 440 and it works really well. That said, I would probably use the shorter, stiffer 400 block if I were to do it again and start from scratch. It helps with space if you are dumping it in a A body, too!

You won't go wrong with either choice IMO.

If you are starting from scratch then a low deck 470 or 512 is a good combo. The RB 505 is also a good choice with the longer 7.100 rods. It just depends on which parts you have.

I’m building a slightly milder 512 right now so I’m watching all the stroker threads on here with interest. I went with a 400 B block because it will be a slightly smaller package. The downside is that I have less selection of distributors and intakes but I’m doing an rpm intake so I was fine there. The early 400 blocks are supposed to have more meat in the journals but at my or your power levels I don’t think it matters as long as you have the block checked over.

I have Andy F’s book on my night stand- he aims his info at a slightly more maximum effort race build but it all applies to a milder build. He posts here regularly which is pretty cool and there are a lot of hardcore racers that have broken more blocks than I’ve seen at car shows so hopefully you will continue to get good info here.

Good luck!

Radar

Oh snap speak of the devil haha Andy posted while I was typing!

I have a 440-448 in the car now with a .557 cam, TF 240 heads, Victor intake. Has been a best of 10.49, but typically a 10.70's car. I have both 400 and 440 blocks. If I go the 400 route I'd need pushrods, intake and a distributor, which isn't a deal breaker. My gut tells me to go the 400 route since the blocks seem to be stronger than the 440, plus should be a little easier to work on in my duster. However at the same time, the 440 route would be a little cheaper and I would think that block would be fine for my power level, but I don't want to build it and down the road the block break and I'd second guess myself.

The distributor issue; isnt a big deal. Ive used RB distributors in all my LD's. Some diatributors my require the spacer to be opened up some but that's not usually a big deal.

Between the 2 blocks, and in an A body, I'd prefer the 400. An RB in there is tight. To me, though, an RB even in an early B is tight on the right side.

You can sell the 440 intake and distributor without any problem. If you go low deck I'd recommend the Trick Flow intake over the Victor. Will your headers work okay on a low deck? The low deck gives you a little more room for the carb under the scoop if that matters.

I went 440/496 in my GTX because I had a 440 block. Because I needed a better intake than factory it wasn't easy to make the stock hood work with my car. The air grabber didn't help. In hindsight I should have found a 400 to build. I'm planning a 512 build also for my other car and it will absolutely be a 400. Frank

Since you already have the RB intake and dist, and know how the RB package fits in your car, I’d just do a 505.

We have built and raced both the 440/512 & 400/512...The 400 based fits in the car way better. My first season on the 400/512, and we clicked off a 6.19 last weekend with it. Both run about the same ET in the 6.1's in the 1/8th....If I did it again, I might try the 440/543 kit they have....Cubes is king. All our builds are pump gas.

I am building a street/strip 69 GTX and want to go 10.30's so I figure I need about 700 hp. I am anal, and I did not want to put that much hp in a stock block so I bought a new RB "the block". It had some issues, but hopefully Bischoff (BES) has them solved. My motor is in finally assembly and will be done hopefully this week. I will report dyno results as soon as I have them.

I assume I will be at 3800/3900 lbs. I do have 30 inch street tires, too much gear (4.56) but I also have a Gear Vendors overdrive.

As I mentioned, the block is an aftermarket "the block". It is 0.030" over so it is a 505 with 4.25 inch stroke. The block can support a lot more overbore and can easily be a 540 cubic inch plus but I stayed conservative. I ended up with Trick Flow 270 heads and a Dwayne Porter solid roller. My goal is a real 700 hp - figure I need that to get so much weight down the track at 10.30's.

I went with the 440/493 combo in my 63 but I wanted to use the RB block in case I ever decide to go with the factory crossram. And I knew I was not going to make more then 650 hp. Many feel your pushing your luck to run an RB block when going over 650 to 700 hp and as you know the low deck is a bit stronger. Also I don't race my car alot as it would make a difference to me if my car was getting raced every weekend. You just have to weigh out what you have and what will work best. Either should be fine for what you want. Good luck with it. Ron