when to replace torsion bars

I have the original 6cyl torsion bars in my A body barracuda and since i added the 511 they are loosing there tension. The pass side is adjusted to just about max and wont lift any higher with extra turns and now the dr side is needing more turns to keep car level. Looks like a winter project coming up. Which bars do i replace they with? Race or original replacement?

Someone on here had a set of race torsion bars for sale not that long ago. I don't know if they sold or not. I'm not sure how you'd even search to find them.

But I know I found them on here.

Firm Feel also sells torsion bars and I think they have some drag race bars. I know they make some fairly big road race stuff. I haven't been to his site in awhile.

I dont really know what im looking for. Should i be looking for a race 6cly bar? What size race bar should i be looking for? Any brand? I dont even know whats available.

I don't remember how they rate the race bars but I don't think it was by engine size.

Thinking about it I think AndyF has a tech page on his web site about torsion bars. You could also call Dick at Firm Feel.

I just jumped on the Firm Feel site real quick and they have an .820 diameter race bar and an .880 street/strip bar. It would be worth it to call Dick and see what he says. He's a sharp guy. And you could check with AndyF too.

I wouldn't use a skinny bar for a street car, there is just too much stress on the thin bar. It depends on how much track time you do and how sensitive the car is to a thicker bar up front. If it was me I'd use at least a SB bar and maybe a BB bar in a street strip type of car. The heavier bars will control the car better on the street although they might slow you down a bit at the track.

Even that .820 diameter race bar? I forget the diameter of the /6 bar off the top of my head. I hope the race bar isn't just a /6 bar with race added to it.

Race bar? What kind of racing? Drag racing usually wants a stock 6 cyl bar and 90/10 shocks so that the front end will come up and stay up for weight transfer....Road racing usually wants stiffer springs than stock and these will cost you ET on the drag strip.

Ok, i'll give them a call. I can take a look in Andys book as well. If the bars available are 6cly,SB,BB, i would probably go for the SB bar for street/strip then. I'm using tubular upper control arms with hyme joints and with 90/10's it was way too loose on the street so i put some 60/40's on it for now. Way better control.

Looks like the A body bar sizes are .810, .870, .890.

i would run .870 or .890 with a DA shock, loosen it up at the track...

.870 with a DA shock sounds like a great idea. I'll make some calls monday.

figure out what you have in there first to find a point of comparison.
i would prob step one size from what it has currently...

[img]https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/attachments/torsion-252520bars-jpg.282689/[/img]

I just measured .830 with my mic. so they are the original 6 cyl bars 51yrs old. I think its time.

You’re a Mopar guy.... why would you change them?

Because the front end is just about draggin on the ground.

Dave post what you find. I think my Dart needs bars too, the drivers side adjuster is ran way in and the passengers side not so much. Mine measure .850", 273 2bbl car now has a heavy a$$ R1 block in it.

When to change? When they break. /6 are not that light, it's real close to a 318. I've never heard of a TB twisting that far from normal use. TB are made different than valve or coil springs, almost like a drag axel. Check the sockets in the crossmember for rot or cracks. Use the 68-69 383 bar for a replacement.

Ok. I gave the dr side bar another full turn and i think it needs another half turn.

Why the 68/69 383 bar?

I ran my original slant 6 bars with iron head bb in my dart. I re did the front end again and just put a heavier slant six bar in, but now have aluminum head bb.

I would say it of course depends on if its a race or street car. Myself I still run the original bars in my 63. Its an original 383 car and to me they work fine on the street and work fine at the track. I don't think I would want to run the 6 cyl bars on a car that's basically a street car most of the time. Ron

383 is only what, 20 lbs less than a high block.

My BB added 80# to the car over the SB it replaced. Mostly street car, but i want suspension to work best possible at the track. So the 68/69 383 tb is the best option for this?

If you can find a set that's nice,? 340 should be ok, depends on how many miles where on them. My bars for the 69 440 are #895-894 (off build sheet) Can't remember the diameter right now. The SB bars are a dime a dozen, should be easy to find. If street-strip they would be best all around in my book. Aftermarket ones that size would be ok, nothing heavier, it would ride like a tank.

A torsion bar is a spring. Just as with coils, different spring rates (diameters) can be used to adjust how the suspension and how the car reacts in your particular situation. And springs wear out too. More so for a light spring required to store more energy.

I think the 340 bar would be an .870". I readjusted bars both sides again 1 more turn each. Will see if this holds for now.

Also on my sons 72 Dart it was a 318 AC car. We removed the AC and now have a 400 in it but the 400 has aluminum heads and intake and headers. I felt with the AC gone and the aluminum parts on the 400 it may be no heavier then when it had the 318 with AC. So it still has the 318 AC bars in it which have been in it with a bigblock (400) since 1997 with no problems. And it is a street car. Ron

Just sooke with matt at firm feel. He suggests .880 bars for best of both worlds. $325/pr, but out of stock right now. Who else should i call for opinions?

Well that sucks. How long before they get some in?

I think PST has torsion bars. I can't vouch for the quality though. Maybe someone else can.

He did say they might have them tomorrow. Hes gonna call me when they are available. He also said he sells alot of 1" bars for street cars that are not stiff at all. They also have a .820 but said it wouldnt last long.

http://www.manciniracing.com/mop890diambo.html

That bar from mancini might be fine, but i nolonger call mancini for advise on anything.

you can use that part number to search availability elsewhere. i found some .960 bars for my coronet using that method. only paid about ~$250 shipped if i recall correctly.

got them here, if you're in a hurry though, i'd just order from Jeg's...

https://www.moparonlineperformance.com/product-p/p5249150.htm

Always looking for a deal. Thanks

Just received a call back from matt@firm feel. They had to order the material for the .880 bars. Wont be available for another month.

$300 for bars! Glad I have about 10 sets.

Yep. I want brand new. Not used up bars that need to be changed again in another 2 or 3yrs. Magnumforce has .870 bars for $325 as well. Need to give them and hotchkiss a call yet. They are pricey new.

I forgot about Magnumforce.

Made some more calls today. Magnumforce recommended a 1.030 and a 1.080 bar. Hotchkis have a 1.1 bar. Not where i want to go. So i called calvert racing because i use caltrac bars and they recommend 340sb bars as a member here also recommended.

FWIW, OE sizes are 0.83, 0.85, 0.87 and 0.89 and have paint daubs in yellow, olive (green), blue and white, respectively. There's not a huge difference in stiffness between them. By far the most common are the 0.85" bars, which should work fine at the dragstrip. I saw a mention of a reconditioning service on the Firm Feel web site a while back. I don't know if that includes an annealing, resetting and heat treating. If they're damaged they're no good for their intended purpose.

There is a pair of the .870 340 bars used in the classifieds for $40. Still have paint no rust. Temping as i wanted brand new, but that price sure looks good to me.

Buy them and try them. New ones are more than $300 so at $40 you can't really go wrong. If they aren't quite right for your car you can always put them back up for sale. Someone with a small block car might need them.

40 bucks and a bit of shipping sounds like a good deal. I'd give that a whirl. You ain't out much if you don't like it and it gives you a starting point that isn't your old used bars.

Think i will Andy. Been thinking about it all morning. Ill give him a call.

If you don't i might have to.

I just bought them. $40 for the bars and $40 to ship, so $80. Better than $325+shipping

I received the $40 TB today. I bought the removal tool as well. Any tips on getting these installed? The old ones i had out once when i rebuilt the entire front suspension, but that was 1997. Probably start on this next week sometime. Thanks

pull clips from the rear of TB socket
pull the upper control arm bump stops off
unbolt lower shock mount
loosen the TB adjusters completely
back the lower control arm nut off most of the way
use a prybar to push the LCA towards the rear, do this by the pivot pin
the bar will slide back and you should be able to pull it out by hand, you can slide the bar all the way back through the TB crossmember

remember the bars are side specific
let the LCA hang all the way down and push the adjuster blade all the way down, then slide the bars in
reassemble, just snug the pivot pin bolt in the air, final torque when it's at ride height...

Your better off getting a set of used A-body bars..
they have already taken a set and wont drop
for quite some time.. any new bar that hasnt
been pre loaded will take a set

After the adjuster bolt and nut is out, pry down on the adjusting arm, this will relieve the tension, and it will slip right out.

Ok. Thanks guys. That info is appreciated. Mike, these are used 340 A body bars. 892/893. They are marked left and right. Would the driver side be the left?

Yes, drivers side is left.

When looking at odd and even parts just think of you in the
drivers seat

Gonna get started on this soon and looking at the bars, they have a slight twist. How do i identify the front and rear of the bars? Does it make any difference?

Yeah, thanks cab. Followed those directions except left the shocks bolted up and the pivot pin nut tight. Slid right out no problem. 2hr job. Its about time a project went straight forward without a ton of issues cropping up along the way. Thanks guys.