62-63 B body spring hanger dimensions.

I'm re-doing 63 Dodge that's had the springs moved in. Whoever did it originally had no idea where the original front spring eye belonged because there were multiple holes in the spring box. Long story short I need the dimension of the front spring hanger,specifically from the front mount to the center of the spring eye.

on my 63 Plymouth from the mounting face of the front little crossmember that the hanger bolts to is 2" to C/L of bolt and 2.5" from floor down to C/L of bolt

Thanks Hotmopr!

Dodge has a different dimension than Plymouth. Dodge is longer

by 2" ?

I have a front hanger from a 65 Dodge Coronet and I mocked it and my spring (20" front segment) in the car and it puts the rear end too far back. The hanger is 3 3/16" from front to center. I think the 2" dimension is correct.

My chart says 2.25 inch eye depth on a '63. For '63 I don't think there is a difference between Ply and Dodge. My info says the spring hanger length difference started in 1964. '62 and '63 use the same hanger. This is all according to info that I've collected over the years but I don't have access to factory blueprints so I could be wrong about some stuff.

Thanks guys! Going to use the 2 1/4" dimension.

1964 was the first year for the B bodies with the 22 inch long front segment on the leaf springs.

On the 64 Dodge only eh. I found out the hard way on my 64 belvedere when I put in hotchkis springs using the stock hangers. Andy's AR105 short hangers fixed that.

Yeah I learned a lot of this stuff the hard way too. Especially on the early B body cars. Mopar Performance never bothered to make hangers for the early B body cars so I had to find hangers in the yards and figure it out myself. I can't say I know it all but I did manage to piece together a pretty good collection of original hangers over the years so I can work from actual parts.

Glad you did! It took me a while to notice the ar105's. I have the B body springs instead of the E body springs you recommend in the description but eventually clued in. I still might put your shock plates in with the weldable shock mount...the shock travel is right on the edge of not being enough.

Yeah, the "u weld it" shock mounts solve a lot of problems by allowing the user to move the lower mount into the best location. I use them now on all of my stuff just so I can get a custom shock location. It is important to split the compression and extension travel correctly so the shock is always in the proper range.