Am I dyslexic? Shifter adjustment question

EDIT:
Problem found...

the first portion of the Morse cable came out of the second portion and was riding on the threaded rod allowing the cable to flex....

Good cable on top, bad cable on the bottom.

all the way forward is high gear, always use neutral as my alignment point and check park and high gear to make sure the cable end slips in the arm on the tranny freely in all 3 spots.

Wouldn't it be easier to put the trans in park and the shifter in park and adjust the cable so it fits without binding
I'm a stick guy so it seems too easy to me.

Gus

So all the way forward is 3rd...3 clicks back is neutral..?
Don't know why this is kicking my butt this time.

yep,or you can do as Gus said and use park and check it in neutral then high, I do this to make sure the arm ratio is correct through out the full travel of the linkage, if it is the one that came with the shifter it should be correct.

No change on the shifter...
If I disconnect the cable from the arm on the valve body, it shifts like a breeze.
If I cycle through the shift points on the transmission using the 3" arm on the transmission, again, no issues.
But no matter what I do, or how I hook it up, when I shift from 3rd back to park and pull the locator out of the shift lever I'm a half inch off and two more shifts left on the arm.

did you buy a VB with clean neutral??

Not unless John Cope sent me one by mistake.

Something doesn't sound right. Never had one that far off. I start in neutral and check every gear detent.

I start in neutral and just check every gear after that.
I did just F up on my adj. and burned up 2nd gear band and 6 clutches .
So this time I triple checked it .

I'll pull the valve body tomorrow, probably the 6th time it's been out, but I've had nothing but problems on install.

Check the rooster tail. Compare it to the other vb.

I'm with rick.... assuming you are using the same lever. measure the shift points. something like bolting the valve body to a square of plywood so they are both referenced in the same position. put a longer pointer on the shift arm and mark the points between the two. go through the sweep and mark positions. That sucks. assuming you are using the newer billet piece. does the rooster appear the same?

I'll have to pull the valve body, once again...Thankfully it's still dry.
I'm going to bolt the old manual body in and see how works with that, little frustrated, 2nd Mopar points race tonight, I'm the defending champion and I'm spending the evening at home.

is there a possability that the arm is turning on the post from the pinch bolt not tightening down properly or the split has butted together from overtightening and not tightening around the post and the flat enough to keep it from spinning a little?

Not likely due to the "D" shaped hole in the shift lever but one rare possibility is a loose shift shaft in the roostercomb. The shift shaft has splines and is staked in the roostercomb, sometimes the staking loosens and there is slop in the shaft.

With the shift lever installed on the VB, check for any lost motion (slop) in the lever between detents, especially when changing direction from forward to back.

I edited the first post...
Thanks guys, I figured it out.

Be careful, i have had my 904 out many times and my Turbo Action shifter adjustment has always been spot on, last time I rushed the installation to make the Bracket Finals towed over two hours away and broke the trans on the first time shot. I had the shifter so far out of adjustment that it burnt the trans and I ended up a spectator after racing all year to qualify for the team. After I had the trans repaired I must have checked the shifter a dozen times to make sure it was correct.

Glad to see you found the problem.

What did you find?

Check the first post. He updated it.

Doh, thanx.