priming a 383

Going to prime oil system on a 383. At what point in crank position does it oil rockers?

preoil at TDC #6 compression (zero on the tab) then turn the dampener back CW 3/4 of a turn (to #8 TDC) & preoil again & get (to) that point by cutting a strip of paper 17.082" & use it as ruler around the dampener. EDIT meant to say CCW

Thanks

I'm lower tech than that.

I turn the motor over a few degrees at a time while running the drill.
After I get oil coming out of the rockers on the first side, I put that valve cover on......then keep priming and turning until it flows from the other side.
Put that valve cover on...... Done.

That is want I have done in the past also. But I guess I'm to much of a hurry seems like I have to crank it around a bunch of times to find the right spot. I need to slow down

Me too, that way you get all the rods oiled on motors that don't have full groove main bearings

I learned something today

when you are an old codger like me and lazy. I take all the spark plugs out and use the starter. Just turn it over till you have oil pressure. Walla, everything has oil.

I recently had an issue with that. I drained the old oil and left the plug out for about a month. Put plug back in with new filter and oil. Rolled engine for about 2 minutes 10 or 15 seconds at a time. Would not prime. Pulled distributor and primed it with a priming rod and instantly had pressure. Never had that issue before. Not sure whats up with that.

I would guess that it would be the 10 or 15 seconds. Just as its starting to prime it is shut off and drains back. Just a guess of course. I like doing it this way because everything gets oiled.

I've always been scared to grind on a starter, even with the spark plugs out, long enough to make oil pressure on any Mopar V8 including the early Firepower Hemi to the LA SB

Spinning it w/ the starter defeats the purpose of priming the oiling system. The whole idea is to get oil where it needs to be without spinning anything...then crank it.

From what I've seen everyone drills the oil holes in the same exact location so you can just crank then engine over to TDC on #6 and that oils one side. Then you have to spin it until the next oil hole comes around and that oils the other side. Every engine I've ever done has worked that way so all of the cam cores must be drilled the same.

I want to make a note of this for future reference ... I think you meant to say turn back (CCW) 3/4 of a turn on the crank to get to compression stroke on #8. Going CW for 3/4 turn on the crank (270 degrees) from TDC #6 would bring you to TDC on #2. Or am I missing something? Good info if you are oiling the rockers using the timing port drilled through the camshaft journal.

Exactly.

Correct

The oil passage in the cam is pointed at a 45 degree angle to oil the passenger side. Then that passage has to rotate 225 degrees in order to line up with the driver side oiling hole. To rotate the cam 225 degrees the crank has to rotate 450 degrees. (1 full turn of 360 plus another 90 degrees.)

Or you can go backwards 135 cam degrees which is 270 degrees (3/4 turn) at the crank. I always turn the engine forward 450 degrees but turning it CCW would also work.

There isn't any reason for people to slowly turn the crank while they wonder where the oiling hole is. The oil hole lines up at TDC and the rotation between the passenger side and the driver side is fixed.

should have been more specific. I agree, I wouldn't use starter to prime a fresh motor. Mine had been sitting for about a month. And put in a new Clear view oil filter system. I pulled the plugs, hit the starter. And had oil pressure within 20 seconds.

My next I am gonna leave the (shortblock) #8 piston at TDC then when together preoil then go CW 3/4 turn to TDC on the tab & preoil again then back up slightly to 15 BTDC & set/time the intergear/dist with the rotor under #6.