Holley Secondary Linkage 20-122

I've been messing around with my Holley 850 DP. I can't seem to get the secondary throttle blades to open all the way. They are close but not quite straight up and down like the primary throttle blades.

Car is a 1967 Satellite originally came with a 318 with a 440 now with RPM intake, AR tall throttle bracket, 1/2" spacer and Holley 850 DP. I've tried the original 318 throttle cable and a Slant 6 throttle cable PN ATP Y155 but still had the same problem.

Has anyone here messed around with using the Holley secondary linkage PN 20-122 to fix this problem?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-122

I've also read about people taking out the original linkage rod and heating it up and bending it to solve the problem.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

You don't need to heat the OE Holley rod to bend it. I've squeezed them with pliers.

If you want to control the opening of th secondaries you can use the part you posted from summit. It's what I use. I go back and forth between staged secondary opening and 1:1 opening. I'm leaning to 1:1 opening.

I also believe you can get that part cheaper from BLP but prices may have changed since I bought mine.

Yes, it's about $15 cheaper. Thanks!

http://blp.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_86&products_id=310

I've got OEM links and BLP & Holley adjustable links on various baseplates. There is NO functional difference once the adjustment is correct.

I adjusted the OEM links on two different baseplate setups recently... seriously, it's five minutes of your time (max), even if you have a couple of trial-and-error fittings.

All true but the adjustable one has the cool factor!! I did have a hard time getting the Holley link to go 1:1 but the adjustable one it was much easier.

The adjustable one may have the "cool factor", but it's also gonna cost about $25 shipped. IF you can get the link tweaked correctly for your linkage, use the $25 you save for high-quality gaskets that can hold up to multiple jet changes, etc., when dialing in the carb.

BTW, I had a new BLP link kit in my parts stash when I decided to adjust the two baseplates' OEM links as mentioned above. The adjustments simply weren't that far off, so PLR (Path of Least Resistance) was to grab some hand tools and tweak the links' lengths.

Unless you're changing between progressive to 1-to-1, you only need to set the link's length one time.

I agree, easy to bend even on the carb w/out removing it and it's free.........The blp stuff is very nice but not always needed.......