Vacuum pump problem

Vacuum Pump problem.

I run a Morroso evac pump. I have the valve cover baffled as well as one can on a BB. On my one motor (451), pushrod oiled, I pick up very little oil in the catch can (a couple tb spoons). In my other motor (512), shaft fed, I pick up aprox 6 OZ of oil every run. B-1 heads on both. I run a pressure valve at apprx 15-20 lbs. Is there a way to control this better? Is there a better way to baffle these valve covers?

Whats in there now for baffles.. is it one on
each valve cover.. pic would be great

I'll send you a pic tomorrow, but it's a simple metal sheet arched over the hole.

It sounds like you need to restrict the oiling to the rockers on the shaft mounted motor
I have a Victor headed motor with shaft rockers and a Gee Zee vacuum pump that only pulls 5.0 inches at RPM and it gets mostly condensation in it with the baffle under the pickup and bypass fittings around 8 inches long with multiple 3/8 holes drill in it.
My next motor will have a Moroso 4 vane vauum pump with Jesel paired shaft rocker system that pushrod and spray bar oiling, hopefully I can figure out a system to help pull air only out of the motor with minimum oil

Where is your connection located at? Though my heads are -1, they have no baffle. Maybe 6 oz in 25 passes.
Doug

Sounds like the stock baffle.. not very good..
2 vents on the covers lowers the speed of the
air(you would like slow moving air so the oil
doent get up in the tube.. slow air is good)

Make sure no vacuum leaks. Six ounces of oil is huge. my moroso 3 vane on my BB sucked that much oil for months until I found my front crank seal ripped.
replaced seal no more oil in puke take.

This is the second motor built with those rockers, same as a year ago with different bottom end

Do you have a picture of a baffle you use?

No pic.. just in the engine but the last one
was basically a baffle inside a baffle(like
2 Cs put together.. one inside the other and
welded in.. also it makes a difference where
they are mounted.. I like to put them over the
wide rocker hold downs

Make sure the dash 12 bung is facing forward in the car and high as you can on the valve cover

First as pointed out make sure you do not have an air leak somewhere. If air can get it you will pull a lot of oil. On a B1 deal there are on a lot of deals WAY to much oil in the heads due to poor drainback. As for placement I have found in the center of the valve cover works best and I prefer the Star baffle on the inside. Another solution that worked well in our dragster with B1's was using the Moroso baffled locking breather at the pickup for the vaccum pump. It gets it high off the cover. We draw next to no oil with that set up. Its not particularly sexy but it seems to do the job.

I used the Moroso 22635 Positive Seal Vented fitting in my valve covers with no baffles. Hardly sucked any oil what so ever with 11 dyno hits.

Dvw... What is between your valve cover and pump on the fenderwell? Is that your pressure regulator?

Howard
Mrsmallblock

A cast burn down breather has a Z baffle inside and can be bolted on top of the valve cover. I've yet to find anything as effective at this job as them.
Goodvibes, and rbs has them and they come with the base gasket, and the outlet is threaded for an oring AN. They look a bit out of place on anything but a hemi, but work like magic.

http://www.rbssuperchargers.com/Products/Burn_Down_Breather_Set_Polished_Thread_In_Hose--2600-0008

Yes it's a regulator. The entire set up is from GZ
Doug

In order for oil to flow into the vacuum pump there has to be either air or piston blowby. If it doesn’t have either then there is no way for the oil to “move” into the pump. I use an electric vacuum pump and a blowby meter to check every engine before we start it on the dyno.

I can tell you that stock style BBM rear seal leaks air bad under a vacuum. The front does also but not as much. My 512 B-1, it had 6 inches at idle and 12 during a pull with lots of oil pouring into the vacuum pump. (a dyno pull takes longer then I am under power at the track). Knowing I had air going by the rear seal, I changed it out to a double lip design, went to 11 inches at idle and 17 during the pull and NO oil. (the engine was not unbolted from the dyno)

I would suggest finding a way to pull a vacuum on the engine without it running and using smoke or your hearing to find the air leaks.

One other thing, I don’t run a baffle inside my valve covers.

Joe

[quote=sr4440]

I can tell you that stock style BBM rear seal leaks air bad under a vacuum. The front does also but not as much. My 512 B-1, it had 6 inches at idle and 12 during a pull with lots of oil pouring into the vacuum pump. (a dyno pull takes longer then I am under power at the track). Knowing I had air going by the rear seal, I changed it out to a double lip design, went to 11 inches at idle and 17 during the pull and NO oil.
Joe
[/quote}
Joe do you have a part number for this seal. Darren, AL do yo run your rear main seal installed backwards? If so does it seep at all?
Doug

I would like to know about both also

It's the high $ double lip seal from fastfish. My cheap ass thought if i put a new stock seal in it would fix the issue, it didn't.

http://www.fastfishautoparts.com/Performance-Engine-Seals.html

Joe

Putting the rear main in backwards works well at increasing vacuum, as long as your rear cap has good drain out. I've done it on several builds with great results as long as you always run a pump. The last one I did was an indy aluminum hemi block, and the thing leaked like there was no seal in it. Turned out the oil from the bearing was shooting past it.