Pros and Cons of Engine/Motor plate

What are the pros/cons of using a Plate vs Schumacher Spool Type Mounts in a 2nd Gen Hemi application in a '69 B-Body?

My current parts list:
Gerst Suspension
TTi 2 1/4 Headers
Indy Maxx block and SR Heads

Thanks!!!

Can't state anything about spool mount but my A-body has had two "motor plates" the first being the old elephant ears style and now AndyF's motor plate.

I have a friend who used the Schumacher adapter mounts to put his 1966 Street 426 Hemi into a 1963 Dodge V8 K member in his B body instead of using the front motor plate, standard TTI B body Hemi headers wouldn't fit in it with those mounts
TTI does make a special set of Hemi headers for those mounts but why spend more on the adapter mounts and have to buy special headers
BTW, did I mention I like and use both elephant ears and front motor plates, especially with gen 2 Hemi motors in any Mopar body types

A motorplate is very convenient. It's a great place to mount things like the coil, vacuum pump, breather tank, alternator, etc. Much easier to unbolt than typical motor mounts...makes engine removal and installation much easier. Plus it frees up a bunch of room under the car when you get rid of the standard mounts and brackets on the K frame. MUCH better for header clearance...especially on a hemi.
It's probably stronger too now that you've tied it all in to the frame rails...acts as a stiffener b/t the front rails.

Haul car to REF in Kingman, have headers made that will FIT the car with the suspension mods you've made. You'll thank me later.... Seriously, you call Greg up, he'll set you a time slot, you get the car to him early in the am, and you'll pick your car up in the afternoon DONE!! Whether you coat them or not is up to you. I simply spray bombed mine as every set of coated headers I've owned looked like crap after a few times of engine r/r.

Just remember that a plate resists rotation ("roll") very well - it's in shear.
But weak w/r/t angularity ("yaw", lateral motion, like moving the tailshaft left-right).

I assume since you have the Maxx block that you're going to be making some power. Once you get up past 700 or 800 hp the stock type mounts really have a tough time holding the engine in place. You can use the stock mounts and add a torque strap but typically the serious guys just move to a plate.

I wouldn't use a plate on a daily driver type of car, but I would use a plate once you start making some serious power.

I use both a motor plate and a mid plate on
my Rampage but its a tube chassis car.. the
plates add to the rigidity to the chassis.. I
also have plates on the race car.. the Rampage
is a street rod.. it drives very nice on the road

Even with or without a mid plate in addition to your front plate. Don't forget to add the engine limiters for front to rear movement also.

Thanks Andy! Yes, Indy Maxx block a little north of the 800hp mark.

I'm going with the AR Engineering plate.

You'll still need some sort of fore/aft limiter. I use a setup similar to this...

Nice!

Why? I had elephant ears on a BB A-body on the street for more than 15 years and never had that setup.

I'm using a motor plate with a poly trans mount on the Duster. The late model spool mounts are rigid enough to serve as a fore aft limiter on a street car, especially if you go with a poly material.

I just used the stock rubber 1972 mount

I'll still use my limiters even with a stock
trans mount

It all depends on the application, Stick car needs a fore-aft for sure to keep the clutch linkage in check. I use Andy's plate and a fore-aft limiter with rod ends attached to the K-member back to the side bolt on the blow shield and it keeps my clutch adjustment constant.
I had a conversation with Herb McCandless about this and he told me the the block will have less stress if you use a motor plate something about the block being pulled on the skirt near the main centerline.

Gus

I run solid plate on front and a solid tranny mount on mine. Street driven with no issues. I got tired of ripping stock rubbers. Would be worse on tearing them up now with the blower on it.

Have you ever hooked it up at the track? Slipping and sliding on the street won't stress much.

B/c the plate or ears WILL flex fore/aft. How much depends on your trans mount and the power you're making. I use a poly mount. Stiffer than rubber, but still allows some movement.
Also, like I said above...slipping and sliding on the street doesn't stress things nearly as much as actually getting traction at the track.

Fore/Aft limiters are required!

I use the Jegs Panhard Bar Kit that they sell. BTW, buy the AR engineering motorplate, as the ears will stress the water pump gaskets.


Mark