jammed up- 8.75/742 case

hey guys- I'm jammed top here- rear end builder reports a problem with my moser axle lengths, thinks the housing was cut wrong.

72 duster, spring perch's moved to frame rails- anyone know what the the lengths should be on each side from pinion centerline with a 3.5 wheel back space?

Thanks- jammed up, costing more time.

The wheel back spacing or the spring perch location doesn't have anything to do with the axle or housing length. Is the housing stock or has it been shortened? You need to measure what it is and compare against what a stock housing is. Maybe you just got the wrong axles.

its a cut down housing that came with the car.
My problem is I can't mock anything up in car to measure from.
I have the measurements on stock housing width- but we don't know the pinion centerline within a stock housing.
if I had that, I can determine if housing was narrowed wrongly or- wrong axles.
I have another set of Strange axles as well- 35 spline, but again, not sure what stock pinion centerline to housing width is on dusters.
The Strange axles I have are only 1/2 inch studs, my Moser's are 5/8.

using this calculator, it looks like factory offset is 1-3/16"...

http://www.doctordiff.com/axle-calculator/

Take a tape measure and measure from the axle flange surface into the bare housing to the center of it(eyeball it ) , if your using a spool. If your using a posi unit measure the width of inside the posi on the splines on each side to determine how far apart the axles end will be in that posi unit installed and then install the axles in the bare housing and see how much width is in between the axle ends
I have had to cut some off the splined axles ends off when switching axles from one housing to another to make sure the axles didn't butt up against each other in the housing using the same spool in both housings
8 3/4 axes are the same length on both sides, do NOT swap a used axle from the passenger side to the drivers side, DO NOT reverse them from one side to the other
Most Mopar Dana 60 axles are shorter on the passenger side than the driver side in cars, vans and pickups
Did you mark or do you know how to tell which axle was used on the drivers side and passenger side If not try and figure that out when you reuse them and install them on the correct, original sides
Good luck on figuring these issues out

That is for figuring the stock Mopar pinion shaft offset

Stock engine location is 1 3/16" - 1 1/4" offset which is where the pinion should be in relation to the CL of the car IF the engine/trans is in OE location. Straight edge across both housing ends to the pinion CL. The difference in dimension from one side to the other divided by 2 is the pinion offset. Rear end guys should have a tool to do this easily without the center section.

Axle length is determined by wheel location and backspace, pinion offset and posi or spool being used and who's posi or spool it is. Using non-OE housing ends, brake kits, etc., can effect axle stick out which can change housing length as well. Figure in the thickness of the brake drum or hat to get it on point.

Thanks guys- your incredibly helpful.

It appears whoever cut down this housing got it badly wrong , as in , 1 1/2 wrong on both ends leaving me with one axle only in 1/2 of an inch into spool on one side, too far into spool on the other.
One perch was crooked , housing ends didn’t let axles centerline to spool.
I just got another housing , new perch’s and ends, cut housing and it was built from there.
Hopefully get to start mocking up tomorrow or Monday at the latest.

It’s just been one thing after another .
Tubs weren’t really correct , frame was tweaked a bit so, glad I had put it on frame table.
Once I media blasted the bottom of car and stripped/ sanded outside- found quite a few poorly done repairs/ body work.
A sticker covered a small rock chip/ very slight crack in windshield - have to recheck rulebook on that.
Trunk pan had to go, build new one, got tank mount / pump mount built .
Some parts came in wrong which, happens sometimes but not often.
Just been one hang up after another and I like schedules / progress markers - just been a step forward, another back.

Hopefully we can mock up engine/ trans to rear - get motor plate tabs welded and start making some decent progress.
Again- you guys have been invaluable .

Anyone here have experience with older 1050 dominators ?
Best rebuild kit, metering blocks?
I can’t remember carb number right now- 1050, pressed in high speed air bleeds etc.

Anyway- thanks for helping me get the math figured out.

Unfortunately, there are many cars and parts floating around out there that have been worked on by folks who just don't have a clue. I see it all the time. I feel your frustration.

What questions do you have on the Dominator carb. ?
Look at the top of the air horn for four small (1/16 ?)stamped in numbers, that will be the list number, which I need to answer any questions on the original parts and configuration
I have used a bunch of the different version of that carb., some work better on single four barrel BB Mopars motors than others do foot braking

Thanks Cm- Yep, seems to be a norm in a lot of areas- tradecraft seems to have taken a big hit these days.


Cab< here are the Dom numbers:

L8896

2536

12R-8795B

3 boosters seem quite loose.

Thanks Cab

Think this should be its own thread?