MSD distributor timing curves

Reading the instructions on setting an advance curve for my 360, I'm at a loss with so many combos. Anybody using one that works best? My motor is a 10 to 1 360 with edelbrock heads. Drag race car only. I use a mixture of 110 and 93 pump gas. about 4 to 1 gallon ratio. Do I just pick one and test and tune the car to see what it likes? Just looking for a good baseline.

When i had a pump gas 408 in the car i used the silver and the lite blue spring together. Think the initial timing was about 20*. Depending on how big your cam is, you may be able to just lock out the timing. I tried both ways and couldn't tell much difference. If your cam is 270*@50 or larger on intake, I would just lock it out 34*-36* should work fine. You may need a start retard when locked out.

What I found was the bushings all allowed to much advance for the initial that my engine needed. My engine ran best with 34° total and liked 22° initial. If I set the total timing it wasn't happy at idle and if I set it at idle it had way to much total.

There was a member here that made custom bushings so I bought one and sanded it down to get the right amount of advance. It's been years ago and I can't remember who it was.

Locking out the distributor will make your car run more consistent.

Yur right and just reminded me i had to get the larger bushings thru FBO. With the larger bushing and the lite silver and blue springs a this curve works good. But again, if your cam is large giving low idle vacuum, locked out is best with a start retard.

I agree and probably will make it 60 foot faster

I have my 511 locked out. With any kind of significant cam over lap its best to just lockem out. My car is mostly street and i get better street manners with it locked out.

Crackedback is who you're looking for. I bought a 10* bushing from him. Works great for my 22 initial and 32 total on the 472 hemi... Or at least I'm somewhat sure that's what his name is?!?!?!?!?!

I believe you're correct.

I'm running with 24° initial and 36° total timing. 12.0:1 CR, Eddy Heads, 95 octane pump gas and 30% of ethanol.

When I ran on dyno, engine loved 26° initial and 38° total timing But last time that I ran at Track was very hot and I just keep 24° and 36°.

Yep,

Don at 4secondsflat (FBO) stocks them if you decided to go that route.

Most SB on gasoline don't need or like a lot of total advance, all the ones I've helped like 30 to 32 total. On your deal I would shoot for 14 to 18 at idle and 32 degrees total (make sure and test at 30 to 36 in two degrees increments due to the difference in timing marks on the balancer and timing covers and the differences in timing lights used on MSD ignitions to find out what your numbers need to be to run the fastest with your car ) above 1500 RPM
Good luck, let us know later what yours works the best with

I've fooled around making bushings and fooling around with curves on street driven stuff. Anything with a decent cam and converter, lock it out. Or just put a crank trigger on it. If you really need or want to control a timing curve, do it electronically.

Just make sure all the timing is in by 3,000rpm and check it at 3,000rpm or above. I wouldn't run more than about 34 total.

back in the day it was trial and error, now I use performance trend engine analizer software, it calculates an advace curve for what ever octane fuel you want to run. Like most programs garbage in garbage out, but if you take the time to be accurate with the info it works good. I just did a procharged 410 mopar with a fitech, calculted the advance curve with and with out boost imputed the numbers into the Fitech computer as a starting point for the ignition advance, it ran great. I am running 6 lbs of boost on pump gas. When I decide to change pulleys and good gas, will calculate again and see what happens.

Right. With light springs, it's in by 12-1500. My reasoning is most engines - that aren't bone stock - are above 3k before they move off the spot. Why not just lock it out, and take advantage of the improved and stable idle, throttle response and carb function? I'm talking carburated drag racing.

For the guys running 34-36° timing locked out are there any hot start issues? My car is a street/strip and I don't want to have to deal with hard hot starts.

What ignition are you running? Most of them have some kind of start retard, and most of them you can adjust the amount of retard.

Yep, I have the bushings in 10 and 14 degree sizes.

$10 each plus shipping

Thanks 70HemiShaker. Glad it worked as advertised for you.

IMO, let the engine tell you what it wants for idle timing. Even stock 340's like 14-16 which is way more than most people think considering the factory started at 10 and dialed it back later for emissions.

Simple test, get it warmed up and idling, twist the dist a smidge CCW, if it picked up RPM, the engine wants the timing. Reset idle speed and do it again. You'll find the happy place. It may not want to start with the point it's happiest, bit of a balancing act. Won't start dial it back to where it will when hot.

Locking it out is another consideration, make sure you have good battery cables...

On most MSD apps' try the black bushing with one lite silver and one of the light blue springs --This seems to work with almost anything or at least is the best starting point

I have a Digital 6 so I may give it a try this summer.

No hard starting issues here mid 9's street car 470 BB 12.1.1 comp..............