Cooling system plumbed with AN fittings

Who has done it and could you share some pics with me please.
Working on plumbing the radiator to the block using -16 hose and fittings. I have a general idea how I want to do it but looking for other ideas as well.

THANKS!!!

Several ways to do it. I make water manifold blocks that provide AN o-ring ports in and out of the block. That makes it easy to plumb a big block.

I think your going to want to go bigger than -16 fittings. maybe -24 or -32, might not get enough flow through the -16 line

Most dragsters use the -16...

I don't remember what size mine are, but here area few pics. Using a Shogun water manifold. Runs cool, and cools down fast. Stage at 130* - 135*, and cross finish line at 145* - 150*. 160*- 165* at trailer in pits.

I have been using this system since 2004. I wore out my 1st Shogun electric water pump last summer.

The shogun manifold uses #8 fittings. I used one, and line size was never a problem. (tried larger line size and higher pump capacity with different manifold configuration and no difference)

I have a standard cast aluminum water pump housing with a male -16 welded on the passenger side lower (inlet) my radiator has inlet and outlet on the passenger side (both -16) I have the bottom hose figured out using a 150 deg. sweep on the WP and a 90 deg. on the lower radiator

The upper I have a a 90 deg for the radiator and am working on what I need for the water outlet neck to get it around to the upper on the radiator. Wanted to use a T stat but I cant find a neck that has a -16 and accepts a T stat. I have a CVR swivel with a 90 that may work. Just looking at other options also.

Been running-12 lines since 03, and would never run a race car without AN fittings again. Can make a 1/4 mile pass, and drive the mile back to the pit and never get over 170.

check out autoplumb.com

I would look at Meziere. They are sexy and they sell fittings to go AN in any size you like.

https://www.meziere.com/Products/Cooling-System-Products/Pumps-Electric/Mopar.aspx

I have used their reservoir style and their remote. Love them.

Another vote for Meziere. Good products, outstanding customer service and support.

I use -16 lines for cooling.

I haven't ran this setup yet, but its dual -12 an hoses with a Meziere radiator mounted pump and Meziere adapters on the motor plate..

I run -20 on my 70 Challenger for the upper & lower rad hoses due to mine is driven on the street. The -12 like everyone has pictured for just a drag car.

-16 street car no problems.

When the turbo cars got popular there seemed to be a lot of local ones stuffing the walls do to putting coolant down. I know of more than one that blew up a coolant hose when head gaskets let loose etc. Thats when I decided to go AN even though I am NA.

I looked into this though I just have an electric WP, no remote, no motor plate. Just a nicer way execute the system and the fittings can help with routing issues. Would be cool though if some of the rad companies offered the choice of threaded fittings installed for inlet and outlet hoses instead of having them welded on. Large angled/swivel fittings can add up for sure though. Nice job Forest!

I use the Andy F water manifolds as shown above in Andy's post. 2- 12 an return lines off the top going to the top of the radiator, 2- 12an lines off the bottom going to the dual outlet pump and a 1 3/4" rubber hose feeding the remote.

Well this is how we ran the cooling lines. Had to use a couple 150 degree bends due to how close the radiator is to the engine. Should work fine.
We installed a bleeder valve in the top of the CVR water neck because this is the highest point in the system.

Thanks for all who posted photos and gave advice.

I took a picture of mine using -20 hose & fittings. The lower was not finished in this picture but is now. I like the look of the black hose & fittings even though it is a race/street car I was still going for that more of a Factory look.

We used -16 line and fittings. I do like the Black braid look. Wish our radiator had driver side in and out but it came with the car and is brand new so we made it work.

We went stainless braid on all the other lines. Stayed with Black fittings though.

I had the radiator custom made for my application.

This I like.

If the picture works this is what I did.
I had fittings welded to the motor plate and installed the AN adapters and plumbed the radiator mounted pump to the front of the radiator.
Not sure if it works yet should be on the track this year.

Digger73 (Mike)

...killer setup here Wondering if he'd still a member here

I am but I no longer have the car...

AN16 works fantastic for upper and lower radiator lines. I use 16 for the upper and lower radiator hoses and 12 for the lines from the water pump to the block. I run a remote mount Meziere pump. Many street driving miles as well as track passes with no issues ever.

The 150's work fine for me but I used Earl's 3/4 pushlock non-braided rubber on -12 ends at the radiator. NPT to barb with hose clamps buried beneath the accessories at the Indy rev motorplate SBC waterpump adapter. The inlet is a conventional -20 where I welded male fittings to the rad and and waterpump tube.

A remote mount pump is so much better. I keep saying I'll retrofit one to mine but for now I don't want to deal with the packaging changes and it'll be tight. When you have a Jesel timing belt, it makes the most sense but seeing the timing marks, priming the pump and service are some of the reasons as well.

I have won at many car shows and cruise nights for my plumbing and engine bay detailing. I didn't even know that was a thing until I won several times??? Lol.

We have done it on I think 6 of our cars so far. No issues at all. Usually use a radiator mounted pump but have also used remote pumps on the dragsters.