Anyone running MT Bias Ply Drag Tires with Rallye Wheels?

I am looking at buy some MT Bias ply street slicks (26 X 10.50-15LT) which require tubes. I currently have tubeless drag radials that are worn out but I have a 4 speed car so am switching to bias ply. The bias ply tubes require a 5/8" valve stem hole which is larger than stock. Any way around this or do I need to just drill out the VS holes on my Rallye wheels?

I run a 28x10.5 stiff on a 12 inch wheel with no tubes.
I go 5.40's in the 1/8th

I was told they tubes are required so I'm not sure about the tubeless route, any negatives?

I'm thinking you should bead-lock them instead : )

How fast is the car?

It's a low 11's street/strip car on SS springs, probably going to a full Cal Trac setup with thier mono spring.

I run M/T dot slicks on my car 28x13.50. Running 11.40s. S/S springs. Except I running tubes on aluminum wheels. Had to drill out the wheels.

Ton's of people run them tubeless but being a four speed the extra stiffness probably isn't a bad idea. If you do run tubes I would be inclinded to glue or screw the tires to the rims, any movement with a tube can cause issues with the valve stem. I would try no tubes first.

I have m/t slicks on stock rims, you will need to drill out valve stem. With a 4 sp run a stiff sidewall slick and skip the tubes. M/T are notoriously for leaking air thru sidewalks, so prep them to prevent air leakage. Usually dawn soap on the inside.

He is right about that, I had a pair that you could drive to the track, race, drive to dinner, and drive home on just fine. But as soon as you closed the garage door and hit the light switch it seemed they went flat.

Originally Posted By nss guy
I have m/t slicks on stock rims, you will need to drill out valve stem. With a 4 sp run a stiff sidewall slick and skip the tubes. M/T are notoriously for leaking air thru sidewalks, so prep them to prevent air leakage. Usually dawn soap on the inside.


He is right about that, I had a pair that you could drive to the track, race, drive to dinner, and drive home on just fine. But as soon as you closed the garage door and hit the light switch it seemed they went flat.
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Ok, but if I skip the tubes why would I need to drill out the VS hole with a 4 step? Stock VS should work without tubes right? In any event, I just want them to be safe, car is mostly street driven.

Scott you don’t need to run tubes. I have a set of 28 x11.50x15 et street r on my hemi Cuda.

I bought them from Larry Hodge racing tire. He is a full time racer and said I didn’t need them. The trick is to spray the rim with hairspray when mounting the tire. It glues the bead to the rim. I didn’t believe it but trusted him and it worked.

Mike

Unless you're gonna use rim screws to hold the tire to the rim, don't use tubes.

The tubes will help at the hit. However with dish soap properly applied to the inner sidewall they won't leak. Mine are still holding air. 5 months with out filling them.
Doug

Ok, so dish soap or hair spray...Better send the wife to the store LOL!

I'm going to test tubes w/o rim screws. I marked my last pair of slicks. They moved only 1/2",(and that was right away). They were glued with purple Permatex. Car has been 1.240 60ft

Doug

Not the same tire, but my brother has Hoosier Quick Time Pros on aluminum rims without tubes and they hold air just fine. He put rims screws in on the outside only thinking they would spin when aired down, but later found out the back end of the car would wiggle around too much with low tire pressure so he keeps the pressure closer to what he runs when street driving.

If you did need rim screws you could do them on the backsides so nobody sees them and still be able to mount the trim rings.