Time for a new oxy sensor...............

Anyone have a part # for the Bosch that is proper for the Innovate LM-1 by chance..........

mine is a LM-2 which my understanding is that the only difference is your's is a 1 channel and mine is a 2 channel so this is the number's I found in my instruction manual,,Innovate number is 3737 and the other option is a volkswagen part number 021-906-262-B

Want something I can buy locally if possible............

you may be able to take the VW number and hav a competent auto parts store cross reference it, probably be a lot less expensive than a VW dealer, make sure you take the old one with you.

Is there such a thing as a competent Auto Parts store these days

there are still a few around, but around here it's usually the ones that have the old guy's running them that have been around for decades, like the Farmers insurance add,, 'we know a few things because we have seen a few things" LOL

I called Auto-zone and they have the VW part # sensor so need to see if the connector is the same.............

Bosch #17205

Dom,

What’s wrong with your current sensor?

Amazon and Rockauto are usually a lot cheaper. And even if you can't wait for them, your parts store might price match them.

Put some propane heat to ot to clean it up

Get this crap, it's been reading all over the place and dancing around so being 10 years old I put a new one in and same thing. I was considering an alt. upgrade here soon as well because at the track it couldn't keep up w/the lights on and the voltage was low in the 13's but when I fired it up w/the second battery and oxy sensor installed today, my volt gauge was showing 15.10 volts and the same tested at the batts. in the trunk. I looked at the afr gauge and it was damn near solid at 13.6-13.8 but then when I turned off the headlights it was all over the place.......light back on, solid afr readings, lights off, all over the place. So I'm going to start by removing the 2nd batt. and see if anything changes but I ASSume there's a short or bad ground in the headlight switch or maybe 15 volts is too much for the gauge and the lights drop the load........just guessing here and as some know, my electrical skills are NOT worth a damn...............

I am pretty sure it's a 17014 with a "rounded" end






the Bosch #17205 connector is square




Joe

Don't have a part # but it's like the top one...........

Electrical problems are not fun. You will figure it out Until then however.................

Just isolated the 2nd battery and that wasn't it which makes sense, same w/the oxy sensor so maybe the alt's bad out of no where or who knows but ya, fun stuff and a big weakness for me.............

Dom, i would call Innovate about that. I noticed your gauge read out jumping all over on your vids and thought maybe it was your cam over lap as my gauge does not do that. stays fairly steady.

Can you "free air" calibrate the sensor? if you can, then the sensor is not bad.

the 17014 sensor is the one used with the LM-1 and 2. I have 10 of them on the dyno and use adapters to go from customers lm-1 sensors to my Daytona controllers.

Good luck!

I free air calibrated it no problem but my alt is now putting out 15.1-15.2 volts and the gauge is going crazy, turn on the headlights and it smooths out so I was thinking the sensor was reacting to too much voltage.......... I will see about hot rodding my alt. or getting a better(more voltage)model and go from there........ I will also check and add grounds and see what that does as well........

Dom does the o2 sensor cable run near the alt output wire?
Or is o2 near your volt/amp gauge?
Is o2 bung in the collector? Are you running open headers or closed with 3' or more past the sensor?

Mine in the collector at idle was useless. WO going down the track was better, but not as steady as now. I have the bung 12" from the ex port in a tube, much steadier there.

Can you post a log for us to see?

Thanks, Don

The o2 sensor does not cross any wires and is isolated and worked fine even at idle till recently and now is spiked at 15.2 when before it would regulate from 13.5-14.7............

I know you are a carb guru, but is it possible the new main body is causing your tune to be leaner?

But if you run leaded fuel it will shorten the life of the sensors.

Keep us posted on what you find.
Don

No guru at all and I only run unleaded fuel but as soon as I get the new alt wired in, I will share the results..............

Thanks Dom. So what do you think about the billet MB?
Is it expensive?
What are the benefits?

Thanks, Don

The billet stuff is perfection in every sense being CNC'd instead of cast and the weight savings is up to around 3.8 lbs on 4150's not sure on the Dommys till I get one here..............