Dry sump vs wet: School me

Haven't been here for awhile. Yet another new project in the works now.

I picked up a 500" KB Mopar aluminum block with original B1 heads. I'll have to rework some things from the previous use as a roundy-round motor. Originally was set up as with a dry sump oiling system and still has the oil pan. No pump, mount, drive system etc.

Converting this to a drag racing setup for a 70 Duster. Looks like I could go external wet or dry sump. I get the advantages of less oil in the motor with a dry sump, but is the benefit worth the potential $4k investment? Being an aftermarket block, I don't see any provisions for internal oiling which is fine. Shooting for 10.0 up here on the hill.

As a bracket racer no benefit. As a corner turner it was useful to control oil slosh in the turns. A proper baffled pan and an external pickup and your all set.

There are a lot of nice advantages to a dry sump system but they might not be worth the money and hassle for your car. You can get some of the same advantages with an external belt driven pump but you'll also have some of the same hassles. I have a couple of dry sump BB Mopar engines. It can be a hassle to put them all together but the engines have a much better chance of staying together when they are being fed high quality oil rather than foam.

Does Redline foam? One easy thing to think about is the oil level in the engine. I have never run a dipstick on my race engine. With a dry sump tank you will know exactly how much oil is in there. It also pulls vacuum which is great for these. You are half way there with the pan. Get the other parts and make it happen. My

Looking at how the pan is configured, everything is on the right side so I would have to probably add some fittings anyway. Not sure if having the kickout on the right side would make much difference if there was 2 outlets on the back.

What all is involved in designing a system that works? Looks to be confusing as to how many stages etc.

IMO for a bracket car it is NOT worth the expense in a Mopar block design. If you are looking every last little HP then its worth looking at. Otherwise the extra expense is better used elsewhere.

An RB based race motor for "circle track"... in which theater was that used? just curious

I don't think it would make enough of a HP difference for my goal. I figure if I ever want to change it later, I can add some boost to it.

Motor came from Ohio. Some dirt track car I guess.

A wet sump is close if the pan is deep enough that the crank is well above any oil level including high G and high negative G.
Really de-aerating oil requires a tall vertical tank, air comes out of suspension as it passes through. By comparison, a wet sump may only be a few inches deep and returned oil may reach the pickup in seconds, unless the pan is very baffled to form a labyrinth.

I think the main reason for running a dry sump for people like us is they look sexy. To me a lot of the fun of working on these cars is the beautiful parts we have to work with.

Hey, this is a family site, at least warn us first.

LS motor?

I only wish I could afford a dry sump pan for my Hemi, because if I could afford the dry sump, I could afford to finish my car...

I built a billet pan for my 470. It is sitting on the shelf if anyone really needs a super low profile dry sump pan for a wedge or Hemi.

Hemi

Never mind