Cam timing

My last freshen 6 years ago was because the carbs I was using were too small and the "lean is mean" proved itself again and I melted a piston.
Time was short and the wallet was fat and was persuaded to use a guy out of my state of NY. Another stuck in prison waiting for my engine to be done,finally picked it up and went on the dyno.Made several conservative pulls and it made 910 HP w/855 ftlbs. I got lucky as it lasted 5 years before I missed the tune and melted 4 pistons.
When we disassembled the engine,CR and cam timing were checked to see where it was assembled.The CR was supposed to be 8.5:1,,,it was 7.44:1.
The cam was installed 6* advanced.I would think if a cam were that far advanced on a NA engine it would fall over by 5k rpm,but with the roots boost it covered it up.
So 1st I ask how having the cam so far advanced effect performance?

Cam card

On N/A motors advancing the cam makes more power below 5000 RPM, running it straight up will lessen the low end power and move the peak HP up several hundred RPM. Every N/A motor I've tested LSA ran faster at the track advanced than straight up or retarded I haven't been able to test a blown motor at the track on the LSA
Normally usually doesn't always work on every motor, especially blown motors that make a hoop of power
Both of the Roots 10:71 blown 426 hemi motors I built, one 499 C.I.(4375x4.150 stroke) and the other one was 4.250 bore x 4.375 stroke had the cams installed 1 and 2 degrees advanced with a cam similar to yours.
The 499 motor had a KB aluminum block with 8.2 to 1 compression and it made 960 HP with 12.0 Lbs. of boost at 6500 RPM on a DTS engine dyno at 800 ft. elevation on 110 octane race gas with a 3000 CFM Bug Catcher hat and EFI. The other motor was a Mopar Mega iron block with Stage V street heads mildly CNC ported with dual 1050 Dominator blower carbs. from the Carb. shop, that motor had 9.3 to 1 compression ratio and it made 927 HP at 7300 RPM peak HP on CA 91 octane pump swill with 7.0 lbs. of boost, that cam was advanced two degrees. We switch the pulleys around from 12% under drive to 13% over drive and retarded the timing from 33 degrees to 25 degrees, that change made 12.0 Lbs. of boost and it made 1027 HP at 6500 RPM on 110 octane race gas before going into detonation I should have retarded it back to 20 degrees or maybe even less
The first cam was ground on 110 LSA and the second was ground on 112 LSA, I think CRS now
it might be worth moving your intake lobe center to 111 to 110 degrees after top dead center, instead of at 106 or 107

He is trying to to cover up wrong parts by
advancing it so much.. and the low CR.. its
closing the valve early to bring up the CR

That is what we were thinking but wanted to post it here for more opinions.
It went high 9's @ 3900 lbs but was not consistent.Finished it up late this season and only made it to the track 2 times. Made 5 passes to find the timing sweet spot on pump gas,4 lbs and went 9.7 @ 146 and 3700 lbs.At 6 lbs it went 9.3 @ 147 with tailpipes.Cam is now 2* advanced with a pair of old fueler heads on now compared to the virgin iron pair I took off.

Well,I didn't get the response I was looking for.Either way most of this I have to figure out myself.The pump gas tune is 13% underdriven and gives me 4 lbs of boost. Changed top pulley 4 times and went to 6% overdriven and was only 6 lbs of boost.It is responding to add'l boost very well and all my increments get better with every change.
All my numbers are new best times and faster than ever before .I like when the track official warns me to get "this" or slow down .So this winter I will change the fuel cell and install a chute.I'm confident in the spring I will crack the 150 mph and go in the 8's

Are you going to try a tighter lash?What lash gap do you use?

24 TO 25

If the cam timing was the issue, I would expect to see the exhaust temps go high. The couple carb fed blown engines I have dyno'ed fuel supply was always an issue. On a hard pull it would run the bowls dry. In looking at your dyno sheet, you did not get the info needed to properly tune the engine, I would have wanted O2 readings, exhaust temps, fuel flow, fuel pressure, BSFC, etc. Its great to know HP and Torque, set the timing, look for leaks, but if you are paying for dyno time you need all the info the dyno can give you to make it worth your money.

I never liked taking timing out of the Ign,more so with less CR.You are on pump and me on 110 changes things tho.

The cam was 6* advanced last round,now it's 2*.I made 5 hits to find the timing sweetspot of 26* at 4 lbs on pump gas.

Well did it do any better??

I'm thinking that with your soft 60fts you would want the cam where it was at. I know at 4000# your 60,s are kick ass. But in relation to the overall ET they are soft, but that is common with blown/turboed engines. From your prior numbers, I think your cam timing was fine, just apply more boost.

So what did you find with the new cam timing and ignition timing??

With the cam advanced were you spinning off
the line.. by retarting it you pulled the
low end torque out of it(some of the low
end torque)

x2

Last year the car was almost 3900 with me in.With all the changes and Jenny Craig whispering in my ear that "light is might" The net loss so far is 200#. So with all the changes and upgrades I can't say for sure how the cam timing effected the performance.When we disassembled the engine,the CR and cam installation was measured.The 8.5:1 that I was told I had was only 7.44:1 and the cam was 6* advanced.Comp told me that a max of 2* was ok.
Now the CR is 9:1 and I finally used a set of old Dart dual plug heads that came out of the Direct connection book from the early 80's.The heads were ported By Steve Sanchez at Total Flow also in the early 80's.
The SV1 carbs are going back to Patrick as he wants to add a 3rd circuit to eliminate the the lean spike at the hit.It seems the flow is lazy at 13% UD,but as I changed to smaller pulleys up top it starts waking up.The 60's went from high 1.48 down to 1.42 with only 2 lbs more for a total of 6 lbs.

Set the engine back a few inches as well.Installed a midplate and "J" bars which made a major difference at the top end!Modifying the the front 2 header tubes around the steering box was a PIA!!
Nothed the "K" like doug,but did it in the car so it's not as pretty as DVWs car.Thanks doug for the coaching,as well as all the others that provided me with great info!

I think your chasing too many issues at once..
correct one at a time then move to the next..
start on the power or start on the traction..
I would start on traction first.. you cant
do it all at once

Totally understood.Car was hooking on 10.5ws so the 1st thing we did was find the timing sweetspot on pump.That was 5 passes.After getting the data from the last 10 laps and working on the afrs and plug readings,in the spring we will see how the addition of the 3rd circuit helps.

Once you get it perfect, what will you do for the rest of your life
Buy and use the biggest bottom pulley you can, can you say 200 tooth on the bottom and 25 tooth on top with straight methanol alcohol
Talk about traction problems with that set up

Al,
Why was 2-3 shift much lower rpm than 7k at 1-2? Does it have to do with higher boost level at that point, so you shift lower? Also do you foot brake or transbrake?
Good progress your making. I like the eng setback you did

Biggest pulley is a 71 tooth,so that will go on top with a 49 bottom for pumpgas.For my bday I will buy a set of pulleys
I foot brake and hammer down,come out just off idle