What battery and why, new build clean sheet of paper

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New build, clean sheet of paper. What battery (leaning towards Optima) group size? post configuration? And why

Will be trunk mounted and have master disconnect bracket already welded to cage. build is drag week type car and will have electric water pump, fuel pump, Dominator EFI, fans, AC, etc etc...and will run a 1 wire type alternator.

Looking for a clean, trouble free install and NHRA legal hold down system. Some of these aluminum hold downs I see for sale on line don't look sturdy enough to pass tech.

I would look at the 16v systems. Chris Alston Chassis Works has a nice battery box/hold down.

Rock Racing Batteries
http://rockracingbattery.com/home.php?cat=3

XS Power
http://4xspower.com/shop/product-category/14v16v-agm/

Chis Alston
https://www.cachassisworks.com/c-206-battery-boxes.aspx

The answer depends on what you are going to do with the car. Street or bracket vs. heads up. If weight matters, lithium is the way to go.

https://indurapower.com/product/series-220/

I am getting one of these for my new project. Not cheap but I have to keep the battery up front per class rules, so it makes sense for me.

Optima is easy, replacements are available on the road, there is many different hold down options available, and they work well. I run EFI, Two Electric fans, Electric water pump, two fuel pumps, and all the other street car crap. My Yellow top is 7 years old and has 5 drag weeks and lots of passes on it, it is doing great. I work for a battery company and I put a load test on it every year before I go on drag week and so far so good. I do load up a spare for drag week but have yet to need it.

If you go optima you will want a yellow or blue top. They are the same battery but different layouts and warranty. The yellow has top and side posts and the blue has an automotive post and a 5/16th stud because it is designed for marine use. While the batteries are the same under the cover they carry different warranties, the yellow has a 36 month free and the blue a 24 month.

The downside is of course the weight.

For battery in trunk I like AGM. Red top, blue top or other. Conventional batteries seem to eventually spill acid. Not good and expensive in the trunk. AGM seems trouble free in this respect (at least has been for me).

Carrying around a bunch of unnecessary weight is hard on parts.. I recently switched out my red tops.. to a pair of Antigravity 720's we took the car out for a weekend of racing.. and ended up running just a single battery. That only weighed 3 lb.. these batteries are amazing.. today I picked up a 780 to do some more testing. It weighs approximately 4 lb.. they get a little nervous because I don't have an alternator.. but so far so good

this is the temporary home.. it is sitting in the old red top footprint..

For your deal I would buy and use a group 27 RV/Marine battery,(conventional lead acid or AGM ) they can sit for long periods of time unused and still stay charged up

Nice find!

I was looking at this:
https://earthxbatteries.com/shop/etx1200

but the low reserve capacity had me concerned for something that will see street use. the Indura unit is almost 2x the capacity for the same price. LiFePO4 is definitely the way to go IMO

Tons of lithium batteries out there. HOWEVER the big issue with them is charging rate and maximum voltage. When they get over charged they tend to combust. The problem with your set up is the alternator. You will note they all have a maximum rate and voltage for charging. If you go this way make sure you alternator does not exceed these numbers. The fires that involve lithium batteries are usually caused by over charging them, either rate or voltage. Having said that just follow manufactures direction and they work very very well. Will crank the engine over effortlessly as well. But don't follow their instructions make sure you have good insurance. I run a single Lithium ion battery in my TS car. Cranks the thing over way better than the two 16V AGM's it reaplced. And weighs 8lbs as it is in a conventional group 24 sized case.

What brand/model do you use?

Is it 16V or no need for 16V with this setup?

Mine are 16v by preference. Since I switched to 16V years ago I would never go back. Car cools down so much faster this way. Mine is a Lithium Pro and a Go Lithium

Weight is not an issue for me, car will be heavy anyway since its not a gutted bracket car. Not really interested in the Lithium deal. I have had good luck in the past with Optima red tops so may just stick with what I know works. I am intrigued with the yellow top and its better warrantee and the dual top & side post. Holley insists on direct connection to the battery for the EFI main power harness and this way I can dedicate the side terminals for that and run the top posts to standard ground and main push/off disconnect to power rest of the car.

Had a bunch of different batteries over the years. Finally sticking with interstates. They have yet to let ne down

Optima. Because I was at the track one day and watched a guy crank a SBC that wouldn't start for 30 minutes. Plus, I hear they last forever.

Since weight isn't an issue, I'd say just go with the Yellow Top Optima. That is what I have in my Dart.

I sure miss the old Sears Platinum batteries. 200.00 on sale with a 5 year free replacement. Matt and I still have one in our race cars

Guess I should have added for what you are doing I to would steer clear of lithium stuff..IMO I see no issue with an Optima. I personally have a Napa battery in our Camaro. Been there for years and rarely does the car move but it always starts for its three drives a year

Go with the yellow over the red, the reds are designed for cranking only. The yellow is better suited for something that does some cycling like running fans and pumps with the engine not running.

MT5 49-H8

What would be the lightest setup for a 16V non- lith battery?