Street/Strip Combos

Lets use 4 rather plentiful motors- 318, 360, 383 and 440. Keeping it simple, all A-B body styles with average weight of 3500 lbs. Allowing for a 904/727 trans(comes with the car), 8 3/4/Dana 60( comes with), lets get some suggestions for complete motor and converter combo. Keep the rear gear at 4.10 or smaller(numerically). Tracks have or are flirting with 12.50 and 11.50 index racing, so let pick an index and see what combos are doable. Combo should be able to live for 3 years and N/A. Let's keep the total budget under 7K.

I had plenty of suggestions...until you mentioned $7k.

Fathers Roadrunner:

440
4.36 bore ICON
6.76 rod SCAT
3.75 stroke OEM
.565/.585 flat tappet COMP
440 source head
Flow 278/200
Holley SD
AED 850
1-7/8 Hooker

3” exhaust to the bumper
3 chamber flowmaster
9” convertor
3.23 gear
9x28 PBR
Power steering
Clutch fan
Front sway bar
Chrome ignition
Flat hood
91 pump gas

3900 pounds

11.91@113 best

Cross the stripe @ 5400 rpm
Cruises’ @ 3000 RPM @ 70 mph

7K? I would guess that the poster is doing a lot of work themselves.

Older ‘73 Duster @ low 12’s.
360/.030
KB-107 set at zero deck
OOTB Edelbrock heads, RPM-AG, 750 AFB
Comp Cams 294s, Pro Magnum roller rockers, Smith bros. P-rods
Hooked super comps into 2-1/2 pipe, Hooker Max Flow mufflers.
OE 4spd, 4.10’s, 275/60/15’s, S/S springs

Well I'd have to figure that the average member can do some work but not all.If I throw out 10K then the hole gets bigger and more $$$$ suggestions are posted. For a bit of more clarity, I'd figure that you have the car with one of the mentioned motors. So, you can go the full build route or take what you have and improve on it. Remember 12.50/11.50 index. Run what ya brung, just tweaked to get to the index. This is why I spec'd the N/A.

Flat top 440, e street heads, .550 solid cam, rpm intake, 850/950 carb, 1-7/8 headers....... 525-ish hp.

In any 1/2 way decent B body under 3700lbs race weight with a decent converter, 4.10's and good tires....... That's 11's all day long.

For an A body I'd do a 408/416, the new TF heads, victor intake, QFT "850" carb, .550-.570 solid cam, 9.5 converter.

Doing them for 7k, you'd be doing plenty of it yourself.

You plan the build, it just costs what it costs.

My combo fits this bill. Engine was built for under 6k, throw in another grand for a basic 727 with a decent converter, and you basically have my setup. If aesthetics weren't important, you certainly could start cutting weight out of the car and I'm sure you could get it down near the 10's, if not into. My tubby street car packs 3800+ lbs down the track though.

Basics:
400 / 451; crank and block sourced off of Craigslist cheap. Block decked for "zero" & align honed
Scat Rods
Iconn pistons (flat with 5cc valve reliefs - 10.5:1 at zero deck)
440source stealth heads - no work / OTB, other than swapped locks retainers and springs.
Engle Solid flat tappet can - 252* / .573; square on 109 cl.
RPM intake with 4150 carb (currently a 1000cfm annular HP Holley)
MSD digital 6+ box, with Mallory elec. dizzy. (Digital box gives me a 2-step and high-end limiter)
Hooker Comp Headers
727 w/ T/A valve body
Lupo Dynamic converter - custom built 9-1/2"
4.10 gears on a spool in an 8-3/4"

I like the 451 over the 440 for a couple of reasons: lighter rotating assembly helps make power AND lives longer. Low deck block is lighter, fits better in the car. Maximum bore helps the same heads breath just a little better.

There's probably a dozen different ways to skin the OP's cat, but this one works for me.

I did the B-body combo that he listed but bumped up the cubes to 505 since I needed a crank anyway. I built the entire drivetrain myself save for block machining and narrowing of the Dana. I have $7500 just in the engine and that is starting with an $80 block! You could probably knock $1000-$1500 off if you didn't do cnc porting or roller cam.

Overall, it makes for a very reliable, fast combo that doesn't require expensive fuel.

A body, 5.9 magnum using a crosswind intake, reground cam, stock valve train, .030 stock weight replacement pistons, use la water pump etc. La distributer. Back cut intake valves, bowl port. 2800 stall 11 inch converter (cheap!) Used carb, 1 5/8 headers.

For an A-body. I'm expecting high 11's in 100% street trim with a 3.23 gear and 10" converter, stock stroke OE crank.

These prices reflect retail over the counter, of which many times we don't have to pay, right? Swap meets, classified ads, ebay, etc...

446", KB pistons, Un-ported/milled/2.08.1.74 valve 452 heads, cc's out to 9.5 CR, comp custom ground .540 solid cam, M1 single plane, 750 holley, 2" headers.

727 w/3800 conv
D60 4.10 w/29.5" tire

64 Plymouth approx. 3800# w/driver & 150 ballast in trunk.
Has run 11.44 @ 116 mph

Is there something specific on how to build that motor(heads,cam,intake carb)to give the converter builder something to work with if you are using a BB with 3.55 gear. Can you get the same with a SB with a 3.55?

I build as I want it, and have a good converter guy that can match a converter to the combo and my goals.

I'm sure most reputable converter guys, (Lupo, Ultimate, T/A) can get the most out of any combo for your specific goals.

Yeah, even my best budget projections for my last few builds have been "blowed up" by the reality of all the other stuff that I didn't anticipate needing or happening, or parts and/or labor costs that were simply more expensive than I'd expected.

I know how cheap I could build but a big block or small block to go the times listed. My preference for this build would start with a 360 block for budget and ease of working and fitting in the engine bay. My Sons 360 just went 6.54 (approximate 10.30's 1/4 mile) with a .030 over 360, flat-top pistons, a used 120 dollar roller cam, and ported Edelbrock heads. He had an issue at Norwalk (Sunday night) and pulled the head, sent it out, and it was back running on Wednesday. Not a cakewalk on an A body but sure easier than a big block in one.

383 block/turned down 440 crank, RPM heads (untouched), RPM intake, ross flat tops, manley rods, solid ft (porter racing heads spec), 373 gears, tko transmission, holley 830 11.60s to 70s (66 belv vert 3950 lbs)

same engine, new cam (dwayne PRH) specd, heads ported by PRH, beehive springs, still schubecks, 4.10 gears, jerico trans, best 11.09, normally 11.20s

Buddy's 65 Belvedere (totally stock, full interior no bar or frame connectors). 8 3/4 4.10, 9x28 slick, good converter. 440+.030, stock rods with new bolts, Speed pro heavy pistons, 10-1 measured, used Eddy RPM's, Mopar .557 solid, aluminum rockers, 1 3/4 headers. It uses a low rise Weiand 2x4 with 2 600 Eddys. My bet is a Performer RPM and 850 Holley would be quicker. 11.30's@117. it's gone hundreds of passes with next to no maintenance. Runs on pump 93
Doug

I think Ron's (383man) old combo is about as good of an example as you could find.

90 Dakota 3500 lbs with driver
408 cid Magnum
R/T heads
Air Gap intake
HP 750
UltraDyne .242/.248 @ .050 .600 lift
10.3 compression
727 w/ manual v/b
9.5" 4600 stall converter
3.73 gears
275 Pro drag radials
11.09 @ 120 mph in good air

My 67 Belvedere has a 3.55 geared 8 3/4, with a tight 10 inch converter that only stalls about 2700. 1 3/4 headers with 2 1/2 inch exhaust out the back. Raced and driven on the same 255/60/15 MT Drag Radials.

The 440 features old school TRW flat tops on stock rods. The block and crank are stock, but feature studs in both the mains and heads. I use the modern ported stealth heads with the as supplied valve springs because it only has the old Comp magnum hyd. 270/470 cam. Since the cam is so small, I just re-used the stock rockers and pushrods (definitely helps with the budget). Cometic head gaskets, M-1 intake with 750 double pumper. 440 source 7 qt pan and pick-up with a melling HV pump. MP electronic distributor fired by an MSD digital 6.

The car will run 12.50s at 107-8 NA. I've done quite a bit of 11.50 index racing with it because I have a big shot plate on it( reason for the cometic gaskets). Best on the bottle is 11.31-122.5

Billy's combination above, while certainly not identical, has some similarities to an earlier evolution of my Challenger that had 3.55s, a stock 2200-stall OEM converter, a little hydraulic cam, and ran a best of 12.55 at 109+ MPH.

A lot more changed to get into the low 11s, though. That's probably another story...

440 blk bored 60 over stock crank, rods, KB flat tops stock heads,2" hooker headers,10" 3800 converter,456's 29"tire.
11.30's@117-18.

Years ago before I discovered the bad-ass BB, my stock stroke factory headed 360 went a best of 11.88 @ 114 at Palmdale and drove it daily. Would of been faster if I knew then what I know today but we learn as we go.........26x10 Hoosiers, 3.91's 10" 3000+ vert, solid Isky cam etc........

Thank you for the kind words. I was thinking the same as I did all the work myself other then the block machine work and the milling of the heads.
It was a .030 over 440 with stock crank and recon stock rods. I used KB Quench pad pistons with the 906 heads I used that I ported myself. Comp was at 10.0. Ran the MP .557 cam and Isky iron rockers. Holley Street Dominator intake and a Holley 850 DP. Mallory dist and the MP orange ECU. Hedman 1-3/4 headers and 3" exh. 727 with a 9.5 converter and 4.30's on a 30 x 9 tire. I had under 7k in it as other then parts and machine work I did all the work myself which saved much money.
Best et was 11.49 @ 116 on SS springs and 3725 lbs in my 63 Sport Fury. And that was through the exh on pump. Normally ran 11.50's to 11.80's depending on weather. Ron

A/MP, don't be afraid to look for good deals on a used short block, or maybe even a long block, especially if it's from a reputable seller.
I've had 2 different cars that ran 9's in the 1/4 mile, simply because I found good deals on short blocks. Add Edelbrock heads and a very affordable solid camshaft and you're flying on the cheap.

The more cubes you can find or afford, the easier it is to go fast.
My current combo is extremely fun, I found a great deal on a 500" stroker kit for a 400 block, found an affordable guy to assemble the short block, got a great deal on used heads and intake and carb. Drove to the track last Saturday, ran 10.69 and drove it home, total blast. Very mild car with low compression, small headers, 3.23 highway gears, never runs hot. I could go as fast or faster with less cubes, but I'd more than likely need more gear, compression etc.

I'm still wanting to build a stroker small block someday soon, which would probably be best for the times you're looking to run(or even stock stroke), and would be a lot easier for fitment and maintenance.
Good luck with your project!