INDY VS WORLD ALUMINUM BLOCKS?

Recently there have been both Indy and world aluminum blocks for sale in the race parts section. When you consider the machining costs the price is about the same. So what I need is real recommendations on which one is better and why? I know of some good shops that work on Indy Aluminum blocks but are there good shops in the Midwest that have experience with world blocks?
Thanks! John

I am looking for an aluminum 4.5 bore Hemi block but there is so much bad info on all of them out there it has me gun shy. So I am curious what kind of responses you get to this thread.

-Dave

I like the Indy block over the World. The Indy main bulkheads are much more robust. I think when World bores the casting for the sleeves they go too far down. IIRC one member here had a World iron block that was cut through in that area.

They have their differences. I've had 3 World blocks. One blew up worse than anything I have seen N/A. It didn't have anything to do with the block but it did. One I have have now and it has 5 rebuilds on it and has been flawless. The other is steel and not valid for this thread.
The World used to come already with bushed lifter bores, pushrod oiling, clearanced for 4.5 stroke, and outside of a little grinding for pushrod clearance is ready to go save the deck checking, mocking up, etc.
The Indy is all about upgrades and is hard to get to the lifter as there are only small holes for the oil to drain back. It may be stronger though.
That's my opinion, I've had 2 KB's too and would rather have one of those, but that's for another thread.

I bought my World block from a well known Hemi builder. I paid him to prep the block since I ordered the CP pistons with the block it seemed logical to me. I then paid another shop to hone the lifter bores because they were to small to even put a lifter in, another procedure I had already paid for. Also to align hone the mains, as they were out. Then check the deck height and so on. I thought I was buying a block ready to assemble and it was far from that.
The World Hemi block that I bought requires a different head gasket than what I was told. Mopar Rich got me straightened out on that after I had problems with the wrong gaskets.
Other than these issues , which I blame the original dealer for, all has been good with this block.

Mark

I like the Indy better...At least they don't drill the head deck holes into the water jackets. And I will tell you what, dealing with World for customer service, at least my experience, rivals that of Indy....Maybe others had better, but that convinced me right there.

I have World, Indy and KB block engines at our place. They all have pluses and minuses. I have not had any issues with the blocks once they are prepped properly to be used. IMO they all SUCK at customer service period!!! I have had 7 aluminum blocks over the years and have not had one yet that didn't have some issues...

IMO the Indy block does have a slightly better main support area, however they are BY FAR the thinnest in the area between the bores, like tin foil thin. KB's have the least amount of issues IF you can get one and IF it was machined properly. My current one was not done as ordered and when it was sent back to be corrected it was worse. I have not dealt with the "new company" hopefully things are better. I will be buying another new block sometime next year and IF the KB deal is sorted out will go that way.

One last tidbit currently the World aluminum block I have is the one making the most power. It is my Predator engine and so far after we changed a lot of stuff it seems fine. The current KB block is making just over 1000 and the Indy is an 850hp piece.

My World is currently back at World for inspection. I had an oiling issue which ended up in the loss of 4 rods, 2 pistons and 2 bores on the first pass. It appears to me to be a machining error but, I could be wrong. My fingers are crossed on the customer service. Waiting to hear back. The only other issue was there was a lot of clearancing needed for the pushrods with the offset rockers. Also, be careful of the height of the lifter bore bushings. I had a learning experience with those.

Thanks for all the replies from actual users of these blocks!
Here is what I have learned:
1) Both Indy and World have very poor customer service!
2) If buying one of these second hand customer service will not exist!
3) Both Indy and World need expensive machining to be ready to assemble!
4) Now I have heard of oiling problems with both which make me worried
the most!
I would like to hear and learn more!
Thanks! MJ

If you buy a new block, do not buy direct. Buy from one of their suppliers. Some of the Moparts members are suppliers of blocks and heads.

I have a world aluminum block with a 572 B1 combo assembled roughly 4 years ago. Shortblock was machined and assembled at Ohio Crankshaft bought as a package. Motor was pulled apart before the long block was assembled and the short block checked out fine by my builder. For head gaskets Cometic MLS gaskets fit with out issue. Can't say how it runs as it has never been fired. Its also for sale as I decided on another direction for my car.

Jack440 would be curious to hear what exactly was the oiling issue with your block if you care to share..Or what you think may have been the issue. As the one on my Predator engine had an issue as well. Which I documented here when we were screwing it together.

Al, what is suspected is that in the front of the block at the oil pump is an auxiliary fitting to run an oil line from there to a pickup in the side of the oil pan if you wish. I used an internal pickup. What we found is that when the bore was machined for that aux port to connect with the intake side of the oil pump it broke into the distributor drive gear bore which caused air to get into the system. This was found after it heated rods number 3,4,5 & 6 but the mains were fine. It's still a lot of theory other then we do know of the intersecting bores. We're waiting on World's inspection report. I don't want to sound like I'm bashing World in any way.

I don't have any experience with the World block but I can tell you the Indy block sucks big time. Your life will be miserable.

Why are the drainbacks so small on the Indy blocks?

Nobody knows that. Why won't a starter fit on an Indy block without you doing a lot of grinding? And guess when you will find that out. Russ can't make changes because he thinks he's the smartest person in the world and his stuff can't be improved. He feels that you are a complete DA.

You might just want to take a drive up to Best Machine in the Detroit area and talk to those guys. They can answer your questions and get you set up with a block. I wouldn't even consider buying an aluminum block direct from Indy. Let someone like Best run interference for you. They deal with Indy all the time and know who to talk to and what to order. They also know how to fix the block so it will actually work.

^^^^ This

Second that to BEST.
They have been dealing directly with Indy for some time now and like Andy said, they are aces in correcting the issues from the Mother ship and figuring out the kinks in existing motor packages using the light alloy blocks.
Chuck and Pete know the right stuff.

Yes, Best Machine is the first and last place you need to go...period.

And another vote for Best!! They just did my 572 and it is a work of art and runs even better then I expected!

I have only had a world products alumnium block, It has Edelbrock Victor JR. heads. race in Nostalgia Super Stock, makes 720 HP Only things I did in prep was hone the lifter bores, and bore to fit my pistons. been using it for 7 years, freshened once and it looked like new when I took it apart. Best investemnt I ever made for my race car. I cracked a stock iron block on average every two years. Never blew one up, but always found cracks on rebuilding.

We do use the Indy block a lot and they workout just fine, We would never use a aluminum world block. The thickness between the sleeves would be all the same between the blocks based on bore spacing. The only difference would be sleeve thickness and we use the thicker sleeve option on most high HP builds. The thick sleeve on the Indy leaves .160 between the sleeves and the std sleeve has .320. Not tin foil by the miss informed tech guy. If anyone compared the two blocks in person and used them to build engines and inspected them after running them you would pick the Indy block hands down. Our highest HP engines have been with Indy blocks, the new KB may change that though, but that's a different story.

Pete,
Thanks for participating on this topic!
Some have recommended you here as well as my current engine builder who has left the trade. You are also located within my driving range which is another plus. This all started when one of each of the blocks mentioned came up for sale. Thankfully I have learned a lot and need to call you some time and find out what it will cost to get an Indy aluminum block prepped and ready for assembly.
Thanks to all!
MJ

You are welcome, we are a Indy dealer and can get you the block, finish machine it and have it ready for you to assemble. Give a call anytime and we can go over the options for the block and cost for everything.

I have an indy block, collecting pieces to put it together. What should I look for? Any special prep work, or trouble areas to be concerned with? I was going to drill the drain holes bigger. What else?

There are no problem areas with the Indy block, we open up the valley drain holes on most and the normal stuff you do or check on a block, verify main bore size, deck, bore/hone with plate, etc. We do bush a lot of them for pushrod oiling also, good luck with your project.

Guess I need to clarify since I am the "misinformed tech" person. The area I refer to is the are supporting the sleeve, or the water jacket area, I said nothing about the sleeve thickness. I have had the unfortunate instance of having dealt with two blocks with damaged sleeves. One KB and one Indy. The water jacket area on the Indy is extremely thin, at least on my older Indy block. So thin in fact we could not get it welded to repair the area. I have a pic somewhere but in my block it was approx. .020" thick. Maybe I got a bad block, maybe its better now but it was so thin it could not be repaired by welding it back up. I lost a sleeve on a KB block and it also went through the water jacket area that supports the sleeve. It was repairable and that area while not exactly thick was .090" and we were able to weld it back up and use the block again.

So I will continue to share what I have personally found using these blocks. Instead of spreading misinformation on the net....

Wouldn't the sleeve seal the water jacket in that area when installed? Did you scrap the block because of this?

It might seal it off yes. I seem to recall back in the day the KB stuff was wet sleeved and was notorious for leaking?!? That area supplies some support for the sleeve as well. The KB block block got repaired and are in use now. It was fairly straight forward, welded in the piece that was broken out and it runs with block sealer just to make sure. The Indy ended up getting partially filled and the sleeve epoxied in and uses block sealer. It has been sitting ever since. Just have not put it back to use. I just don't feel right selling it to someone as an unknown deal. Will likely end up in a street car project for me at some point.


Both of them I purchased from people as complete engines, one brand new the other used. The Indy block engine was used and we ran it to finish a season, well it didn't quite make it and came apart. Likely was just older than advertised. The KB block was a new engine that was only run on the dyno when purchased, built by a recognizable builder. He missed something on assembly that ended up destroying the engine. Morale of the story buyer beware..Anything I buy now complete will be taken apart and thoroughly looked over before it is put into service.

Ive built, and ran the 3 mentioned here. What al is saying about cylinder support in the indy is the same we've seen, and the sleeves move around, and power suffers. They seem to be ok at 1000hp if the bore is no bigger than 4.53. More bore, or more power, and it starts. Also better bush the lifters.

The world has the weakest web of all.

The KB is the toughest by far, and the best oiling as made, but you still need to work on it.

Repairing the paper thin sleeve supports we've done several times by milling out the whole thing, and welding a plate in so you're welding on the ends where it's thick, then boring the sleeve holes again. Trying to weld up between, or on the fronts is a crap shoot as to whether or not it'll hold.

indy block in mine for about 3 yrs no problems so far got mine from BOB GEORGE !!! WE WILL PUT IT TO THE TEST NEXT YEAR !!! i have a f-2 procharger on it hope to make 1200 - 1400 hp !!!

The two latest indy block motors I built follow the same trend I've seen for a very long time. The first was a millennium head hemi that made as I recall 1180, while on the dyno power started falling off. Couldn't find a thing wrong, but decided to pull it apart and see. Found 3 cylinders way out of round. Re honed it, and power came right back, for 2 pulls, and back down it went, but not as far as before.

The second was a nitrous motor, that from the looks of it probably made 750-800NA, with a 350 shot in the fogger. When I tore it down to build it some cylinders were so out of round they had galled up the pistons in places. one cylinder was .007 out of round. The worst out of round I've ever seen save an explosion. I re built it as an NA single 4, and made 970. Power was stable when it came off the dyno.

All the indy blocks I've done have been fine at or around 1000, much more, and they've all suffered. That's just my experience with them.

All the indy blocks I've done have been fine at or around 1000, much more, and they've all suffered. That's just my experience with them.
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What have you seen from the World blocks in similar circumstances?

Thanks,
Mark

Happy Thanksgiving !

I bought two aluminum worlds that had known issues with rear seal alignment. After fixing that, one became a street hemi that only made 700. The other was 588 done for nitrous, that hasn't been sprayed yet. The motor made 915 na and has 2 kits on it. I suspect from what the web is like in the block, the second kit, if ever used will cause some issues with the block.

When you compare all the available aluminum blocks, a KB is by far the toughest one out there. The deck, and valley support is un matched, and the web is thick, and well supported.

Since they all cost about the same when you're finished, for me the KB is the way to go. Having to bet money on what will take the most power without failing in some way, the KB would be first, then the indy, then the world.