727 explosion at Milan last night....

photos by Mike Yoksich...'65 Belvedere. Nice car.

Ouch!

Damn...Hate to see that stuff happen

darn

Tex

Wow, is that a flame in the hoodscoop in the first pic?

Looks like you can see a little flame in the scoop on the first pic...Damn that hurts.

on another note how'd your carb test go?

Dang!

I hope he is okay.

How bad did it hurt the car?

Was there a shield or blanket? If so what brand and how well did it work.

Thanks!
Bill

Holy moly. That's scary. Hope he's ok. X2 on what kind of blanket or shield. Billet drum?

Been there done that, don't wish that luck on anyone

Hope he's ok. Bet it didn't have a rear band apply. Turbo action vb?

Only got to make 2 passes. We ran a baseline pass with the 750, then swapped on the 950 (off Tim's Challenger, with zero tuning, still has the stock jets in it) and it ran slightly faster then the well tuned 750, with a worse 60 foot time (track was getting cold and the street tire guys were tearing up the starting line).

It also didn't seem to run out of steam at the 1000 foot mark like it does with the 750. It was running a bit lean too, which I knew even before we checked the plugs as the temp spiked.

We were hoping to make a couple more passes after tuning it but there were a ton of oildowns last night.

Driver is okay. The car got a dent and is missing some paint on the passenger side. Guy said the slicks were brand new and shrapnel sliced the driver side one and ruined it. I don't know if he was running a shield or blanket or what kind of drum was in it.

Thanks!
If you find out any more please share with us.
Bill

Sure wish him well!! Wonder what failed??

quit spending money at the torque converter.... there are ways and means to eliminate this. we've seen it all before.

Looks like a fireball on the pass side as it's having a meltdown.

Man that sucks! Looks like he ran over a burning propane tank! That will cause a 45 minute delay for sure. Those pics are excellent by the way...

My friend knows Kelly pretty well. I saw pics yesterday of a 8"x 12" hole in the floor. Broke the snout off the converter and tore it right off the flex plate. Cut the headers up, broke the starter ear off the block. It had a blanket. He cut his leg slightly. His nephew had just bought the car from him.
Doug

Doug, I take it that it had a stock drum? Seeing this stuff makes me cringe

Glad to hear hes ok. Sorry to see a nice car like that get damaged. Thats a big hole in the floor. Scary. Glad i used an aluminum drum with rear band apply.

I looked at a new to the market SFI approved blanket being offered last week - covers the whole transmission including the bell housing - its being made specifically for the TF727 and is very well designed using ballistic grade fabrics - seeing these explosions reminds me - better safe than sorry!

It was rough. He had a blanket, but everything was mangled. Overhearing the guys talk, it broke the block, bent the framerail, bent the headers. You could see the floorpan bent well past the gas pedal mount.

Insult to injury, as was mentioned, the car was pushed back over the shrapnel which cut the slick.

Thanks for all the updates, sorry for all the damage, but glad all he had was a cut.

Bill

So what failed, the roller clutch allowing the drum to burst or the converter?


ETA...NVM, now that I see the pictures.

A few pics. In the 2nd pic you can see the sun sheet is expanded on the edge. That's where the high gear drum sets.
Doug

was he running a stock drum with a trans brake? - sure looks like that converter ballooned up. Glad he walked away that could have been real ugly..

Pretty violent.

glad hes ok, saw it happen at ubly once on a stock looking road runner, a girl was driving it and it let loose doing a burnout, she broke her foot and was back later wearing a cast.

Stock Drum...?
Sorta looks like on.

That's ugly!!

Pretty serious carnage to that floor pan.

Thats the worst ive seen, glad the guy is ok for sure.

I cant imagine being that close to that happening.

What converter is that?

First pic flame in scoop.
Second pic, smoke plume coming from hoodside on drivers side.

I wonder if more mayhem has happened here, perhaps started at the engine first.

Take a good look at the rear gear....

i had that happen before,typical 727

yes.... but was it because it was built like a "typical" 727.

OUCH!!!!!!!!! That's gonna leave a mark

Perfect illustration showing why not to run brake lines across the firewall





Witnessed a 727 trans explosion in an early '70s Newport at a demo derby. The blast bent the brake pedal at a 45 degree angle, and the steel bar had to be at least a 1/4" thick. The floor pan was a sight to see too. The driver actually walked away after 15 minutes on the ground holding his ankle.

I'm happy he's okay. Seeing these photos makes me feel good about the $600+ I spent on a steel drum.

Could the fluid vapors in the trans blow?

Im thinking im gonna keep my crt trans now and probably throw the blanket back on it just for good measure.

A local racer recently lost a sprag which wiped out the case and rear support. Disassembly found other distressed parts. I gave him a list of the minimum parts I would replace but he won't spend the money.

Sometimes an incident like this is the only way to make believers out of skeptics.

Well then he's asking for it. People have been blowing these things up for 50 years, at least. If you haven't gotten the memo by now, it's hard to feel bad for you when you shell one.

Yikes, would be a good time to list the parts needed to prevent this

Low band apply valve body.
Billet steel drum.
Bolt in sprag.

At least I hope that will, that's what I have.

i went with aluminum drum to prevent this!

Im going to stir the pot. Build a power glide using all the correct race parts. Problem solved.

That was my choice. I lost some ET but its way more consistent, cheaper, more options, and safer. I've since recovered most of the lost ET so its a win win.

I NEED a three speed, and it's a three speed 727 that blew up...info to help those of us running a 727 would be appreciated.
Thanks.

I saw a guy blow up a 727 in a 340 Barracuda dialed 13:70. Had a Cheetah with no LBA and no blanket. His trans builder had tried go talk him into a billet drum and a blanmet, but he claimed he couldn't afford it. When it blew up it broke his foot and he was off work over a month.

727 is no place to be "frugal", especially when good parts aren't that expensive.

The parts you mentioned are a good start. I replaced rollers and springs regularly as well.

Anything happens to the rear, driveshaft, spin the tires hard or anything like that, get the trans out and look at the roller clutch.

Put it in second before you even go into the water box.

I am going to call the builder of the trans that's in my 10.0 street Barracuda and find out whats in it.

You brought up a very good point about spinning hard. With radials now becoming so popular they either bite, or they don't. My Friend picked up .20 on radials a few weeks ago BUT during our Halloween Race I don't know what happened but he spun like a mad man during one time trial. And our track is known for good traction. If it was a 727 instead of a powerglide major damage could have happened inside the transmission.

Had a friends 1965 Belvedere puke its 727 on the street earlier this year. Could have been worse.

How hard was he spinning? I don’t have anything with a 727 in it now but you guys have me absolutely terrified. After reading this I wouldn’t want to do a burnout or burn rubber with one. I knew there were nono’s but I’d be really fun shy to have any fun lol

Don't worry.... the resident "I've used stock drums forever and everyone's doing it wrong...." will check In and make you feel all better again.

We learned all about this ordeal back in the pre internet days. 10 sec car, launched, broke rear gear, shocked sprag, and away she went. All 727's we've run since have had billet drums and blanket since witnessing this. For the price of the drum vs the possible damage it's a no brainer.

put a turbo 400 in it or powerglide,get away from a 727

Btw.... 904 trans doesn't have the mass of the 727. No worries there

Thank god he is ok. Cars can be replaced but we cant. Ron

Spin and shake will screw up ALL automatics. Every T/D and T/S guy I know has a spare glide or 400 or Lenco. Most Powerglide users I know have at least two others laying around. Buddy of mine running Super E back in the 90's went through at least two glides every race! Built right, used and maintained correctly, a 727 should handle any of our 6-900hp engines. I do have a picture of my buddy's '63 Belvedere that looks like it ran over a deer on the starting line. CSR shield barely dented the floor. There wasn't a piece bigger than your fist left. I'll try to find it and post it.

You should have posters made of all the 727 failures due to stock parts in high hp cars and hang them in your shop, I saved these pics on this thred and have some others i found.

Very easy. If it bothers you install a good aftermarket front drum. Problem solved. I personally have never hurt a drum, seen a few for sure. All the valve bodys and good low rollers mean nothing if they fail to hold and the drum and it over speeds. A stock drum may break at 10,000,12000, 15000 rpm? You don't know. If the low roller lets go it's engine RPM x 2.28 = drum rpm. Do the math. Goes without saying they should all have a shield/blanket/SFI case, your choice.
Doug

Has anyone ever seen someone blow up a front drum WITH an LBA valve body, using manual low?

Mike is the best track photographer. We are lucky to have him!

I have a 904 in my '65 Dart. I was going to ask if anyone has ever heard of a 904 blowing up?

It's kind of funny a year ago I posted the question about using a turbo 400 behind my big block and was told to stick with the 727 even by Monty.

What you got was an opinion and what works for others,Some don't mind doing more work and have the resources.

As J_Body said, the front drum is much smaller. When I was spraying my junk I asked my trans guy if I should put a blanket on it and was told no.

I talked to Rick Allison yrs ago & told me he never heard of a 904 drum explosion. If u use the proper parts in a race 727 everything will be fine. A shield is good insurance coz anything could happen.

My brother is running a push button 727 with all stock parts what all parts should he be looking to upgrade car runs mid to low 11s with a turbo action valve body

Well if anything good comes out of this it will be some upgraded transmission parts and hopefully some shields.

Bill

That is Any 727 users worst nightmare! I went through my 727 last year, didn’t have the funds for an aftermarket drum, but I do run an LBA valvebody, a bolt in sprag, and a blanket just in case. There’s no way to make this hobby completely danger-proof though. As soon as you have your explosion proof transmission figured out, there’s a litany of other perils waiting for you. At some point, you do your best and get on with it.

How fast you are really has little bearing on whether you need "good" parts.

A stone stock /6 has the capability of exploding a 727 drum if the sprag fails. It's strictly a product of engine RPM X low gear ratio. If the tach can hit 5000 in neutral you have the potential for disaster.

Kevin

True. But when we ran one, I still didn't want to break it due to stupid. It was in second when I came out the front of the lanes.

Not just a bolt-in sprag but a Super/Ultimate sprag. The unit I mentioned had a bolt-in and it failed.

GM Trannies explode too IF they are not built right or are abused. Any trans can be a time bomb if abused with the wrong parts.

Exactly. Standard bolt-in sprags are really no better than stock. Meant as a case saver type part.

727's Suck! my buddy just put a glide behind his 440 and that just blew.

So what next? G Force but 4 speed's are inconsistent!

The low band apply valve body alone will prevent this problem. I got my B&M LBA pushbotton VB in 72 and the 66 and later version in 74, I'd never part with them.

Th400 main problem is tossing into nuetral across the stripe. Unless you have a valve body deigned to do it. 123n. I currently run one. Easy to build. BOP versions are cheap and plentiful. Personally I have always hated the 2-3 shift on 727's and tweaking the band.

Asking this question again for clarification. If one does not have an aftermarket drum and LBA, will launching car in 2nd avoid (for the most part) this issue?

A lot of guys do most of the damage on improper tire heating

Ok who are the suppliers for the drum and valve bodies needed, I did a quick search and came back with zip.

Ascertain the performance required, select the trans and get out the credit card. There is no free lunch. They all have issues and their associated costs.

I suppose it would, but you generally need first gear in drag racing. Since it’s generally when you freewheel the trans in 1st without the band applied that the drum is at risk, Most do their burnout starting in second to avoid the issue.

I've been running the same trans since 1988, all Turbo Action parts including the valve body. No rebuilds just maintenance, 1.40 60ft times no trans brake.

I'm just looking for the suppliers for the parts.

I bought my 727 from CRT. Building the trans is one of the few things I don't do on my cars . He sells the parts as well.


http://coperacingtrans.com/
Mark

Call Keith Long/ 727specialists. 219/718-3542

The 2-3 shift is all about timing to avoid overlap and you can find the sweet spot by understanding the front clutch clearance, springs and the kickdown lever ratio and adjustment. The 4.2 lever is the best all around IMO, the rest comes from experience but a good 727 trans guy should know this.

CRT, Pro Trans, ATI,T/A,A&A and a lot of others
Three choices on the front drum beside stock, aluminum, alunimum with a steel liner and all steel

Keith knows a thing or two about transmissions. Bought my aluminum drum from him as well as some other parts. I like Copes rmv bodies with rear band apply.

I wonder about these new vb'd lba and if they were ever test on a bench or dyno to verify there correct function.[delay in shift 1 to 2 correctly.cause effect]

I wonder about these new vb'd lba and if they were ever test on a bench or dyno to verify there correct function.[delay in shift 1 to 2 correctly.cause effect]

Are you meaning copes brand or that type VB overall?

If it has a good drum it doesn't matter if the low roller gives up the ghost or not. I've seen low rollers break with low band apply. I have also seen Super Sprag's break.
Doug

If it has a good drum it doesn't matter if the low roller gives up the ghost or not. I've seen low rollers break with low band apply. I have also seen Super Sprag's break. As long as the drum stays intact the worst thing you'll have is a broken , but intact trans.
Doug

I was going to say the same thing last night and didn't, shame on me

It is the stock cast iron front drum that explodes, not the rear roller clucth or valve body

so why would anyone pay more for the super sprag if they break too? save your money and just install a bolt in stock type then and use an aftermarket drum.

Any brand,The racers seem to be the test bed for a new product to work out the bug most of the time.

That's what I did.

Ironically one way to make a th400 bullet prof is to go sprag less which I think griner developed the vb for but...... The 2-3 shift becomes about timing to avoid overlap.

Did anyone ever check to see if ATI makes a 727 aftermarket case. My ATI
Case is very heavy duty and comes with a steel safety liner that slides down into the pump

Ive an aa or aaa? I think cope uses his own now? And ive never noticed a delay at the track or street when hooked, if im horsing around and blow the drag radials off I can hear the 1-2 shift in the motor but its not enough to make the tach needle drop, by then im already in 2nd at 7200, about a second and a half but I always run it out when I do and it gently hooks, I never let off abruptly.

Do the data loggers show the delay?

The sprag can still break from the shock but the drum wont explode. I broke the sprag in my race car on the line testing at my local track because I broke an axle but still drove the car back to the pits and on to the trailer. It was just 4 days before I had to leave for the Keystone Nats. I had to overnight axles from Strange, repair the trans and set up a new rear as the axle broke at the spline and got into the carrier bearings, all while working a night job as well as my machine shop, 5 am Thurs morn I pulled out for the Keys and ran a good race but I was tired for sure.

How much does it cost to add a billet front drum, lba valve body, and an ultra-spraig, compared to a similar build with out those safety measures?

quite a bit , drum is US$7 or 800 I think . Sprag around US$100 .

Tex

In reality you can't avoid all overlap, some is necessary to prevent rpm flare up on the shift. That's why the TF will always be inferior to a trans like the TH400 that has no release/apply cycle.

Not to be a smart azz but, I was told years ago that if a human built it it WILL eventually break,, When I built my 727 for the 512 I took all the knowledge that I had learned and applied it, Super sprag and a steel drum and Copes awesome new transbrke VB and a complete re-hash of everything inside the case.

Somebody could make them but I have never seen an aftermarket 727 or 904 case. I would sure like a SFI approved 904 case.

Bill

How do the Carbon Fiber shields hold up to an explosion. I have one on the shelf to go in over the winter.

There was a pic posted on here yrs ago. It got pretty tore up but, I don't thing the driver go hurt. With a billet drum, shield & smart driving worries should be over.

Ya, a billet drum is gonna be on my list when I go trans brake in the near future hopefully.

It can get expensive to upgrade the 727. I used the A&A Ultimate sprag ($195), Billet Steel front drum ($550), Billet aluminum rear drum ($250) Note this was mostly for clearance with the billet front drum. Billet Steel 4-pinion front planetary gear ($499) The splines in my stock aluminum gear were cracked and falling out. CRT reverse manual valve body with low band apply ($275). That is $1769 to start with. A modified race pump with max lug gears ($315), lightened sun shell ($165), Deep aluminum trans pan ($175), billet front servo ($83.00), 4.2:1 band lever ($25), Billet strut ($19), billet strut anchor ($34), Billet low reverse servo ($48), billet accumulator (), rebuild kit(), alto read eagle clutches and kolene steels(), vent relocation (), Bands (), more stuff I forget...

A good drum and a decent valve body will last forever in a low 10 second car with stock components. My 9.0 car runs stock 3 pin planet carriers, pump gears, shafts, and servos, Factory 518 truck pan, 3.8 stock lever. You can reinforce the stock strut with 10 minutes work, same with modifying the pump feed, relocating the vent. Rabestoes tan clutches in my low 10 second car went over 1000 passes. In fact the only non stock components were a Turbo Action non/LBA valve body, good drum, deep truck pan.
Doug

It can get expensive to be safe, yep.

That is also why the A&A race trans, all in one package, are a pretty good deal. And he has several levels of race trans.

"Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?"

But in this case, even a 14 second ride can hurt you real bad.

Doug pretty much nailed it.... got a street/strip ride, put the drum in.

I did that 2 years go, billet drums are cheap compared to the loss of a foot.

Doesn't look like the blanket did a very good job of containing it w/ the size of the hole in the floor.

My bet is that straps that go to the bell housing bolts were too long or not installed allowing the blanket to slide rearward.
Doug

Probably so. Or if it was a Lofgren Blanket, which only has 2 straps that wrap around/under the trans, the straps were either damaged or the transmission broke apart so there was nothing for it to hold onto.

^^ This, I didn't get a pic, but when they jacked the car up, the blanket emptied out like a coin purse.

I will be upgrading my drum this winter and swapping to a LBA VB

I just recently upgraded the drum when we went to the new motor (although that's back in the shop) I've been running stock trannies for a long time and these posts scared me into that drum and bolt in sprag. Hate to see these things happen. At least it was at the starting line and not headed down the track.

Do you suppose if this guy could go back in time and spend $1200 to make his tranny explosion proof, would he do it?

You just have to remember that stock drum could be as old as 50 years old and has seen how much abuse before it became a race part ?? Pretty cheap insurance to get a billet drum. I know a lot of old school guys who have never blown one up - mainly because they learned early on how to drive them right. But I think using a stock drum with the available parts we have today is just asking for issues. A well known brand X Transmission builder always told me you MOPAR guys will spend $20K on an engine and $1,000 bucks on a transmission - and then complain when you break it !

I had a guy at the track the other night tell me that "A lot of guy's budgets stop at the flexplate"
The light bulb usually comes on after the fact.

wise words... I'm not breaking my aluminum block because of a tranny

I've had Mopar trans guys tell me the same thing.

I talked a buddy of mine into doing the sprag and drum in his street car. He didn't want a manual valve body so no lba. Didn't want to see him break his foot.

if the trans has the capability of auto shift, no. Shifter in 2nd will still be in low.

others beat me to it ......

If that bolt in sprag is not the $$ A+A or Coan it's a waste of money and time. The generic run of the mill bolt is is to fix a loose outer race.

Also as said, if you doesn't have a full manual valve body (NO AUTO SHIFT AT ALL) putting the shifter in 2 still starts the trans in low WITHOUT the band applied, put that auto shift lever in 1 though will apply the band.

I've been emailing this guy about the blanket he offers, I saw his car at a car show. His blanket is not cheap, but it sounds like a perfect fitting piece that is bullet proof and covers everything.
His email is chpenterprise@neo.rr.com Phone number is 330-584-8045.

I do not know him and I have not seen his blanket yet.

I ran 904's for years with out incident, when I built my BB and knew that a 727 was to be used I started making a list, and the first item was a billet steel drum and ultimate sprag, when I was done, my invoice's from CRT was real close to 2500.00 in parts,, now I have one less worry and my feet and legs thanked me for doing the right thing.

So,who is running a blanket on strip/street car.

I would like to go with a carbon fiber shield, but not sure it will fit in a Volare/Roadrunner, 440/727.

I am sure a blanket will fit, but not sure about heat build up driving to/from the track of 35 miles each way.

Thanks, John

I had a blanket on my car with two coolers, couldn't get stuck in traffic or go rounds with it or you'd overheat. Went to a carbon shield and it fixed all the problems.

Dave and I saw his blanket and talked to him at 42. This blanket is the real deal - it is SFI approved and made with Kevlar and I think he has a patent on it. Fits over the bell housing too and looks awesome. He is proud of it by the price but something Dave and I both may look into purchasing.

Just ordered the DJ Safety blanket , specific for TF727 . Got the shorty , I think it only covers up to the pump . But the new trans does also have a billet drum lba etc . Better be ok , I drive it every day

Tex

I ran a standard full size blanket on my old pump gas BB stroker Duster, I had a tranny temp. gauge in the car and ran both a 10 inch and a 8 inch converter in the car with a small external aluminum tranny cooler mounted in front of the radiator with no fan or running it through the radiator, it never got above 200 F, never
That car weighed 3450 lbs. with me in it and ran 9.99 in the 1/4 mile through the exhaust with the air cleaner on motor only using 91 octane Oregon non ethanol pump swill
Not all converters are the same so please keep that in mind, monitor the tranny fluids temps. so you know exactly what yours is running

This is what concerns me...I drive my car...ALOT...I think I will end up with a CF shield

thinking of my old Lofgren blanket I see absolutely no conceivable way that it could attribute to increased trans temps. I'd still run it if the rules didn't require more for sub 10 passes.

It's reverse manual Cope 727, it's going back to him this winter for a freshen up, I'll talk to him.

I used to have a Lofgren blanket in the cuda before I went to the CSR shield. Never had a problem w/ either one, but I don't have a trans temp gauge either.
The Lofgren blanket is pretty small...really doubt it would cause a heat issue.

I run a stock drum with a Turbo Action non LBA VB in my car and have for many years with no issues so far, but I know I need to upgrade to a better drum. I talked to Rick Allison this year about his drums and my VB and he said the drum is definitely needed but the VB is ok. I start my burnout in 1st gear but shift it right away into second. I also have a bolt in sprag and Lofgren blanket. BTW the VB is a forward pattern. Makes me think I need to upgrade the sprag when I change the drum.

You are already on borrowed time - never start the burn-out in first gear - start in second shift to third

I'm not sure why my trans has lasted so long but I was told from the start to roll through the water and do your burnout at the very edge of the water, get the slicks hot enough to dry when you roll forward. I have always started burn out in second. I did a dry hop and staged. No problem thousands of pass's.


Are drag radials that much different than slicks?

Sure glad to hear he is ok. I am the guy in NE. Ohio that DoubleD was referring too. When a transmission blows like this it is a literal BOMB! I have researched this problem for the last 2 years. All the engineers I have conversed with (all of the major ballistic material suppliers), all agreed that this is a extreme condition and would require some very serious material. I will say this: metal hood types allow parts to escape forwards (towards your feet) and backwards to the tail housing. Carbon fiber usually works "IF" you have Alum. drums. Steel drums can and do shatter carbon fiber. Billet drums are "NOT" the total solution! Using billet drums allows them to spin faster before exploding. Unfortunately since spinning faster they release even more energy than a stock drum. Therefore causing a even larger explosion.
Something to think about.
If that blanket costs you $400, then the manufacturer's cost was half or less than half of that to make a profit. Part of that half cost is packaging, buckles, strapping, an outside covering and labor to sew it together. So how much actual ballistic material are you really getting for your money???? Now go look at ballistic materials and their costs. You also have to know how much of it "layers" (there are many, many types of Kevlar and others) will pass the SFI test. Now go to the SFI Foundation site and look up what it takes to pass their test. Better yet go look up the military test standard they use (MIL-STD-662D-V50).

If you would like to explore this subject further email me here.

Coming from Nottingham, England i'm curious to know why he calls himself Robin Hood. Lol

I beg to differ with you on the drum statement. There was a magazine article that covered the billet steel 4140 drum that Rick at A&A came out with. They tested it on some sort of a spin tester and I believe it went to 36,000rpm before they stopped it, and there was nothing,no cracks, no flaws, nothing. So even if your shifting at 10,000 and your sprage lets go, your still covered.

No I meant a manual VB in a high HP/TQ car. I don't know who built my trans, so I tend to launch it and do burnouts in 2nd. It's a pro street car with a lot of gear and a decent amount of stall. It leaves pretty good in 2nd, just wanted to confirm or not if this method reduces the possibility of this situation.

I do my burnouts in 3rd only. Part throttLe at 6000 rpm. Never hits the limiter (7200). I stay in the throttle about 4 seconds before lifting. Gets good wheel speed.
Doug

Wait.... You Launch the car in 2nd??.... with a manual VB 727 ?? Why would you do that?

The CRT trans brake I have will work in first or second. The last time I was at the strip I accidentally left in second, it still ran 1.51 60' leaving at 2500.

BTW if I were buying my drum again I'd buy the aluminum one with the steel liner.

I've purposely kept quiet on this post, but I'm one of the geezers who have been racing the same Hemi Dodge for almost 50 (48 years, actually) years with no incidents. In fact, I can only recall even seeing two incidents over those years, both caused by driver error.

I still use a "J" converter, a Cheetah VB. standard stuff. It was pounded into my head back in the day the cause for trans explosions, and to always check after a first gear drive line failure, or excessive spinning. The easiest way to check is to pull the driveshaft, put a driveshaft yoke into the rear of the trans, and spin it. It should only spin one way easily. If it spins both ways easily, the sprag is turned and it's got come apart. I have always started my burnouts in second, and then go to high. I use first gear only to put it on the trailer, or to pull it into the garage, or to leave the starting line where it's pulled second real quick. Not hard, just pay attention.

I can't help but notice that some of the cars on here who complain about it happening are dual purpose, street/strip cars. To me, that is probably a lot of their issue. Go out on the street, blow the tires off of it in low gear, take it the track, and then, pow. My guess is that in a lot of cases, that is what happened. I'm sure there are some explosions that are legitimate, but, to be frank, I've never seen one that didn't have an explanation for it. Now, I'm sure that there will be a pile of you on here who start arguing with me. That's OK, whatever. Do whatever you think is necessary. But, one can save themselves a lot of hassle and money by just doing it the right way.

But, when I hear guys saying how they are scared to drive one, that's a bit over the top. It's not like jumping into a combat zone with the 82nd Airborne. Just know what you are doing and pay attention. Not hard.

Of course, there were also the neutral starts we played with back in the late sixties, but, that's another story....Dick Oldfield and Ron Mancini can tell you all about them....

having been around the results personally (friends car luckily), none of our rides hit the track after that without a steel drum and blanket or shield. If you are racing with a 727, you really don't want this to happen. We were fortunate that Chuck Lofgren was at the track that weekend and came by and educated us on the whole deal as we did not have a clue as to what happened (good ole pre internet days )

Prior to this happening I had been street racing for a couple years and track racing for only a couple. I had broken a ring gear when I had a 8.75 rear in my Mirada. Not knowing any better we simply threw in another gear set and went on our way.... got lucky. I'm proof like many that it doesn't happen every time.... but knowing what we all know now, it's not worth the risk IMHO.

Huh, didn't know that

Like Steve 1118 says, watch what you are doing. Back in the day thats all we had, there was no LBA manual valve body. The was no updated drum that was reasonably priced, so nobody used them. Remember the 1980's! All the old days 727 racers are not limping around.

Many sprag failures might seem to be sudden but they're usually preceded by flattening of the rollers. A sprag with several flattened rollers might pass the "turn it backwards" test (which is highly judgemental) but might still be in distress.

The only way to positively judge the condition of the sprag is a periodic visual inspection.

A lot of us old-timers used to abuse the sprag and never have a failure but there's a difference between doing it wrong and getting away with it and doing it right....I'm one of the lucky ones who did it wrong out of ignorance. No excuse in this day and age.

I got my first B&M LBA manual valve body in 72, I think they started making them around 68.

Crazy timing reading this again.

Old HS buddy of mine from back early mid 80's just texted me last night his '68 HEMI Charger just did this exact thing. This was not a race car but street car with a healthy large CI HEMI motor with street DOT's. He was lucky to walk away with just cuts bruises. Looked pretty bad. Car was rotisserie restoration and was mint. He said there is metal everywhere in the interior.

Sucks.

Before everyone starts to debate stock,billit and aluminium drums lets put everything in perspective as to use and application.
Using a stock drum has it's place in stock street and mild dragrace use if your application is not in big torque,high RPM and horsepower ranges and proper procedure is followed.
ie:Engines under 500HP,operating RPM ranges under 6000,second to third burnouts and a proper shield since the sprag(over running clutch can fail)
Aluminium drums in all applications reguardless of HP/RPM but require maintaince and a shield for the same above mentioned sprag failure.Second to third gear burn outs also
Billet drums in all applications reguardless of HP/RPM,less maintaince and a shield for the same above mentioned sprag failure.Second to third gear burn outs.
If you insist on using a stock drum on anything above a mid ten second race car then I suggest you use the best shield you can find.Steve's comments are correct for his use and application but must have a shield for the unexpected breakage.
With the techonology of race cars today with the capabilities of low tens to high eights in many brackets we suggest use the strongest and safe parts you can afford.
Respectfully Bob

Ah, the voice of reason from Brother Bob. Different applications call for different things. But, Torqueflites are good, good trans.

I'm still getting around OK, despite racing a torqueflite for all these years. Except for some arthritis and a little gout, the knees and feet still work OK. I spent many, many years watching Bagwell, Marshall, BG, and many other Hemi and Maxie SS cars make thousands of passes over the years with no issue by doing what I do. Don't forget, most of that stuff wasn't around back then. Make more HP, better chassis, and all and of course the demands are different. A blanket is like belts and harness, helmet, anything else. Should always be on there, just in case.

The problem I have with threads like this is that everything gets worked up so the average kid bracket racing his 440 Road Runner has the mindset of an infantryman going into a firefight.

It's not necessary. You've got kids scared to death, and spending money they don't have. So, they never get to the track. Some of the guys here are very free with others' money.

Just pay attention...do it the right way, and you won't have any problem. Get the right product for the application, use good parts. . If you have a dual purpose car with big HP, which seems to be the in thing, and you are running around laying tire in low gear all the time to impress the local kiddies, you'd better be careful. For what it's worth, the trans in my car is the same one BG did for me a long, long time ago. Change fluid, maintain, and pay attention. True in everything. Works everytime

I usually just do a short burnout in second only and ease off the throttle as coming out of the water. Anything wrong with this?

I wouldn't base drum selection on ET. A twelve-second car that is capable of 8000+ rpm on a free-wind overspeed can explode a stock drum.

We are not basing in on ET alone read all of the statement that includes proper technique and safty equipment.The last statement your quoting is a caution and suggestion.We all know what will happen if RPM is exceeded in low or second gear and the overrunning clutch fails(which it will)I learn a long time ago no one can guard against stupidity and if a person can't use common sence he should run a complete containment shield around himself for all the "what ifs" that can happen.If a person free winds a 12 second car it's because he has done something stupid.
Respectfully Bob

Ouch thats not fun to see at all,glad the driver still has both feet !