Slicks

I mounted a set of M/T 10.5w with no tube and blued to the bead.At the track last week they moved over an inch.Thought when glued they move up to a 1/2 inch and stop
Rims not screwed..........

A lot of guys don't go about this right. The tires when new have a "mold compound" on them to help release when the are built. I take a day and apply my Dawn dish soap to the entire inside of the slicks and let dry (2 coats). I then clean the slick sealing lip carefully with lacquer thinner and gently sand it with red scuff pads and clean again with thinner. I carefully clean the wheel lip too. I use brush on High tac and "no soap when mounting. This process works GREAT for me.

I thought you bought beadlocks?

Mine are glued with purple Permatex. They moved about 1/4" the first outing. Haven't moved since, 150 passes.

Doug

I had a set of Hoosiers do that to me once with tubes installed. I added 8 rim screws per side.
All better.
So how'd you do Al? Any 8 second time slips?

I did,they have 16.5x31 ET streets on them.

Permatex hi-tack here. Just like Doug said..... moved a tad the 1st time out. Locked down since.

Close,but the weatherman said not today.The explosion made for an interesting day

My brother has a small amount of glue on his. He said the same as some of you that his moved about 1/4 or a bit more the first time out with the new slicks and has not moved any more. I also dont run tubes and to be honest mine are not glued and I have never checked them to see if they moved any. All I can say is they dont lose any air and have never gone flat. Ron

Hopefully we are looking at (top pic) passenger side? (Bottom pic) drivers side?
BTW those look like used tires?

I would rotate from side to side on non directional slicks with no screws after every race for two or three times and the tires would stop moving after that

Dave,I boguht them new and might have 23 passes on them.

Kinda move then in both directions 'till they stop??One of my friends said his moved 7 inches before they stopped.........

I rotate every 30 passes or so. They haven't moved after the first passes.car has been 1.240@3350lbs
Doug

Screw em!
Drag cars need it--If it is a drag car with slicks forget about your pretty wheels and drill them correctly screw them and forget it
MT website had great tech how to on doing job right --in low powered car ( like anything except turbo big NOS monsters ) 8 screws are fine but more power equals more screws like MT says to prevent tire shake on monster HP stuff
Slow motion videos have shown that more screws are better for BIG HP stuff
what we usually run 8 per side is plenty and has worked for me for decades
Drill screw hole on fat side--use a screw to "tap" the holes first--keep a fresh new screw during this process and it will keep from breaking one off --also that is where a tad larger than spec'd on the hole size really works to your advantage--screw does not have to be so darn tight in wheel at all

I respect what your sayin Crabby,but guys ALOT faster than my heap are glued without issues.........

The good thing is the car is working. I wouldn't worry about it too much as it moved very little and probably locked on there. Try upping the tire pressure a little bit and maybe roll out of the water a little sooner. The yellow letters look to be a bit more than 23 passes. I believe you though and maybe the burnout is a bit excessive. Burnouts are fun though and I love doing them!

Will switch sides next time out and see what happens.

Me likey I will try this next time I have a set of real vintage magnesiums I will not drill ever--way to valuable so good plan here Thanks guys!!

The mold release agent is readily apparent on a new tire. Pittsburgh has it right. I don't think it would hurt to go over the inner wheel lip with some scotch brite if so inclined on an aluminum wheel. Otherwise screw 'em or get a set of beadlocks.