Subframe connectors?

My Duster has no subframe connectors, just a 6-point 0.134 mild steel roll bar. I've made about 30 passes with the car, and it launches straight and hard. Mid 10's with 1.5 60-foot. No complaints. I was originally going to put connectors in the car, but my friend said not to bother. He's been right about everything else he's suggested. He's a Chevy guy but has been building record-setting cars for many years. Interested in what you guys think.

They've helped with twist & distortion in everything I've put them on: a '73 Nova, '73 Camaro (both being stub-frame fronts & unitized rear bodies), 2 Dusters, '64 Plymouth wagon...one of the Dusters has made several hundred passes on slicks since new, low-10s, has been on the rear bumper, and the doors still close like a new car; subframe ties & 6-point cage. Both Chevys instantly handled more predictably and all instantly felt more solid.

I did subframe connectors first just 2x2 so I didn't have to cut the floor. It made a HUGE difference in the feel of the car. I recently added a 6pt. bar and was suprised it felt even better!

Anything you can do to stiffen our unibodies helps!

A bodies are flimsy. Sub frame connectors are the first thing to do. Welded, and I prefer to section into or at least tie them into the floor somehow. Firewalls are also flimsy, that is usually addressed with a full cage.

They make a HUGE difference.
Make sure to install the two angled bars off the main hoop through the rear sear footwell to connect with the frame connectors, basically that makes a 6 point an 8 point and is an extremely good upgrade.
Doing all this makes the car " one piece" your doors will thank you by continuing to shut properly

3" tall, through the floor.

Short of a 25.x chassis, this is most effective.

IIRC 3" still keeps the floor mostly intact.
For those not familiar, the bending resistance improvement between 2" and 3" is huge: more than 2-1/2 times with only a 25% weight penalty.

If your Duster ws a few years old than I would agree with your friend.45+ years and there is rust and plenty of torsional stress from just being a car driving on the road or just sitting in a garage. Takes a lot of torque to move an A body into the tens. Once you twist the frame your done. That car won't be worth sh%*. Do yourself the favor and have them installed.

... before you wrinkle the "C" pillar on a hard launch!

Yes, Mine are round tube chrome moly & tie in with the cage on my Challenger and go thru the torsion bar support & front frame rails. The short bar show with tab is my removable drivesahft loop mount that goes from frame connector to frame connector & meets the 25.5 rule about having the under car cross bar.

I would put them in. No matter how much they will help some. Even if they did not help they surely wont hurt any and can only help some. I feel my 6 point rollbar stiffened my car more then the frame connectors but the frame connectors definetly helped. Ron

A unanimous opinion. I guess I have some welding to do. Thanks to all for your input.

If you're not sure the boxes are water-tight, drill small drain holes at the lowest points so that water doesn't accumulate.
Someone I know has simply caulked the ends with silicone (very clean first!) and it's been dry for years.