how do you check valve lash? potential issue

I recently checked the valve lash using the 180 degree method checking multiple rockers
the #1 exhaust valve needed a 2.5 turns to get the lash in spec!
All the others were close

It took me too long and the engine temperature dropped but I lashed them all at 020

I went out again after the engine was hot,
I rechecked using the intake opening exhaust closing method and it needed some changes back to 020

Specially the #1 exhaust went from 020 to 024

when it cooled it was at 17

Its a (Solid Roller cam)

I have relashed all the valve cold at 017

I plan to go out and drive it for a while and then let it cool and check the lash on all valve

Any thoughts or suggestions.
(i don't have a lot of experience)

Iron, or aluminum heads? Iron, or aluminum block?

Iron block
Aluminum heads Indy EZ
Harland Sharps
Comp Roller Cam

I use the race method to set up the lash or preload on all my motors, it is using a remote starter button very easy to do and remember after doing it a couple of times
You can do it cold or hot, it works either way the same. I start by reducing the lash by .006 cold on a iron block with aluminum heads by removing the valve cover and using the remote starter button I bump the motor over until the front exhaust valves just start to open, I then set the lash on the intake valve, then bump the motor over a little bit at a time until the intake valve opens all the way and starts to close a little bit. I set the exhaust lash then and go to the next cylinder in line and repeat both steps until the last cylinder is done on that side
Once both sides are done I will go drive the car for 15 to 20 minutes to get it up to operating temperature and get the oil hot, I'll reset them again with the motor warmed up to find out how much the lash has increased or decreased with the warm motor. Same deal, one side at a time front to rear and rerun it before doing the other side to get it back to operating temps. before doing the other side
Don't be surprised on the changes hot to cold, not all motors respond exactly the same
One of my street motors with Edlbrock heads only change .001, another street motor with the same part number RPM heads changed .008
Have fun, write down the changes for future use

for a .020" spec I would get a slight drag with a .021" feeler gauge & no drag with a .019" feeler gauge. this will get you within .001". No info on the rest of your Q's but agreed, that is alot of of clearance changes. You may have to fire the eng again then do another half of the valves on the hot clearance setting.

My biggest concern would be the #1 exhaust valve that took 2.5 turns to get in spec, was it tight or loose? Tight could mean the valve is sucking up, loose could be a lifter, cam, or even rocker issue. I use the same method that Cab described.

Glenn is 100% correct. If it were mine I'd be taking a look with the intake off. Twice I've found issues when lash opened up .007" (with-in 25 passes). Saved me a ton of grief. Also use Cab's method of setting lash, quick, and precise. My cam is spec calls or .020" hot. It gets set at .014"/.015" cold with iron block, -1 heads.
Doug

I do it the same as Cab said... then from
there on I set them cold to my spec.. been
doing it that way for about 20 years now

That way is a lot of cranking as apposed to the std lash chart with 2 revolutions.Do you ever tap the rocker tip to settle the valve in the seat to see if it changes?

I did it that way years ago and found that with big
roller cams it would be off by about .006.. it you have
a battery charger on it the extra cranking didnt matter
so now I do it the one way and its simple

yes I did the 180 and the "eoic" race method and both were close to the same for #1 exhaust which is the concern

I have the indy valve pan (which looks like it needs a head to be removed to remove the pan) but it has an inspection plate

I wouldn't trust that you can be certain you're truly on the base circle of both lobes at the same time.
Do one valve at a time.

Exhaust starts to open...... adjust intake.

Intake opens and goes thru most of its cycle, then is almost closed..... Adjust exhaust.


The only way I can see 2.5 turns out of adjustment not pointing to a real problem is if it was adjusted that far off in the first place.

One tell tale sign would be if that adjuster screw is now 2.5 turns different than the others.
If it is, you have a problem.
If it isn't, it was probably set incorrectly previously.

The only way I set em now is when the ex. just starts to open I set the in. when the in. is fully open I set the ex. and have checked it w/the manifold off and I'm on the base circle. Any other lazy method as stated was off by a good amount any my solid roller w/alum. heads and iron block ends up at .020 hot when I set em at .014 cold and no way I'd play the hot setting method except once to verify the settings then cold from now on............Too much unnecessary dirty work...........

Buy on of these quick, inexpensive
https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Depstec...droid&psc=1

It looks like the problem is the adjuster

push rod worn a bit too

first pic shows how far in the adjust is and the exhaust slide has abour 1 thread showing All other rockers are in about 1-2 threads

Are all the pushrods the exact same lengths? If so what is causing the difference in the threads exposed?

is the adjuster screw soft?

The compressed adjuster is the difference in the amount

I don't know. Dwayne thought it was likely a problem right from breakin or lack of oiling due to pushrod length. It's the last rocker to get oil and it was maybe not primed properly. Thus starved of oil and potentially no oil in that rocket and the adjuster heated up etc etc

Buy a set of the good adjusters from Manton, CBR 951-245-6565

It would appear from the rocker pics that some measuring is in order.

The springs were set up to be used with your cam and 1.5 rockers.
By the looks of those rockers they are 1.6's, and HS 1.6's are usually closer to 1.65.

You'll need to measure the lift at the valve to see where you're at.
If the rockers are indeed 1.6's, and check out as such..... You'll likely need different springs.

The springs are rated for .680 lift, but even if you are right at that, with the added velocity that comes with the higher ratio, along with the boost being a bit higher than was the original plan, you'll probably need more spring pressure to keep everything under control.

First step, measure the actual lift at the valve.

Also, IMO, the pushrods are def too long.

I would want the threads of the adjuster under the rocker to look like they do now on the worn adjuster.

zeroed it out and measured

And??

Can't tell anything from that pic.......the valve is closed.

You need to have the indicator compressed about .800 or so when the valve is closed, zero out the pointer........turn the motor over until you reach max lift, counting the revolutions of the pointer along the way.

He zeroed at max lift...

Okay.....and from what number on the .100 counter? (since its sitting at the .400/.900 mark in the pic)

If you "assume" the pic is supposed to be pointing out that the lift is .X72", then is it .472? .572? .672? .772?
Since the rockers look to be 1.6's, we can again "assume", then it should be .672.
If that's with the valves still set to .017 lash, then the gross lift would be .689, which would make the loaded rocker ratio 1.609(.428 lobe lift).

If shorter pushrods are used to help alleviate the burning up of the adjusters, the ratio will go down slightly.

Ok sorry for the lack of info I hope this is better

020 lash

6 revolutions of the guage

Not showing fantastic repeatability, but it can be tough working on the motor in the car.

.653 at the valve, +.020 lash = .673 gross/.428 lobe = 1.57

So, they are 1.6 rockers.

At .653 lift at the valve you are within the normal lift range of those springs.

The question now is........ Are they stiff enough to maintain proper control of the valvetrain....... At the required rpm....... With as much boost as you'll be running?

It's certainly a possibility.

When you fix the problem, just a lash suggestion. Get the motor as hot as you'll run it. Rip off one cover and set 1 pair of rockers. Let the motor go stone cold, maybe overnight. Then measure that same pair. Now you can accurately cold set them all, and you'll know exactly how much it grows with heat.

Good Idea Thanks!

Yes I had a real problem with Repeatablility. That was the most consistent amount but it varied several times.

At this time it appears I am around 14-16 lbs of boost. The procharger is turned WAY down, so I was very surprised it made this much pressure. (I now have bigger injectors and and 3 bar Map sensor so I should be much better off than before for tuning.)
I have bigger crank Pulleys to make more boost, but I dont think I plan to make any more power for a while.
I doubt the trans will last long and I cant afford to buy a T400 for a while.

I still plan to change the 1.6 Harland Sharps to the 1.5 and sell off the 1.6 rockers