Buy viking or Afco

Undecided,which one of course afco or viking the latter less expensive.
9.90 #3375 big block ladder bar duster..
i dont see The car ever goin considerably in the 8's
1.36 sixty best now with worn out qa1 promastar singles
Make the decision for me lol

Viking.

Viking

Viking.

very happy with my Vikings

Tex

Take a look at the JRI 'Sportsman' double adjustables. I just put mine on My Duster and I'm interested in seeing how better they are from the single Koni's. They look 'cooler' at the minimum. Once I get enough laps I'll give a 'critique'.

Easy, Viking

Lol that simple 10-4

As a very wise and deeply missed member preached: Buy the best shocks you can afford. Just make sure you buy shocks that are double adjustable, able to be revalved, and can be rebuilt.

thank you also I think that's what made it a little confusing for me I can afford afco's yet everyone is happy with Vikings I have no experience either way so thanks for all the replies

I would say the same thing.. buy the best you
can afford... and think ahead.. also remember
that the heavier the car the better the shock
you want

I'd get Afcos because in the future you have more options for service and valve changes. I guarantee a Viking wouldn't get my car down a track

Went with Viking on all 4 corners,Afco for the sliders & radiator.

I would get Afcos, hands down. Excellent product great support and can be rebuilt or revalved easily.

Of those choices I would buy Afco's

Other than cost, do vikings fit the bill ?

I bought Vikings and have no complaints, having said that I've never had decent shocks before so I have nothing to compare them to. They can be revalved pretty easily though.

Afco, or check strange pricing.

The front shock of choice for stock eliminator Mopars is Santuff.
That being said I ran DA Afcos on my A body and after having them revalved they worked great. My new car is getting Santuffs.

It all depends on the amount of power you make.. if you
make bigger power you should be looking at better
shocks to control the car.. if its just a low power
set up you can go with a less pricey shock but that
can be iffy.. spend the money if you can.. they are
rebuild-able if you dont get the cheapest stuff

AFCO makes a direct fit shaft type DA for the front with a rebound adjuster on the shaft for Mopars. Get the big gun valving and you will likely have all the adjustment you'll need. I am very happy with mine and AFCO's tech is great to work with.

the picture you have posted,,, is that a rather stock frt suspension?

YOUR shocks are they set to carry the frt tires , it doesn't look like the suspension is dropping much or is it just the frame capture ?

The front is a coil over conversion with tubular upper and lower control arms. The shock remains in the stock location. The shock will work with stock control arms with torsion bars too.

The shocks have enough adjustment to stop all rise. In the picture, shocks are set to allow enough separation on launch to transfer weight and keep the rear tires planted.

Who's lower control arms are those?

Dillinger Chassis Components. I don't know if they are around any more though.

Most companies I've seen that offer custom valving and rebuilds are usually agents for AFCO or Santhuff. Some carry JRi and Strange as well.

I'd be spending my $$$ on those. Whichever you buy, ask if they can be re-valved and rebuilt. Race shocks don't last forever, long trips on the trailer wear them out quicker than you'd imagine

Great customer support and better yet an Awesome product.

Sure hope you fellas or right bout these afco's i use to run the stock suspension front end with a set of Chris -Alston front shocks car was very consistent. Switch over to the afco's and my 60's were all over the place. I sent them in for revalveing hope there right .

I have Vikings on the front of my Challenger & Rancho 9 way adjustables on the rear with Caltracs & split mono's

I know my junks slow but 1.33 60, 6.15 @ 109 lifting on fixed Rancho 90-10's up ft. and 5-ways out back............

Dom...my car HATED those Calvert 90/10 front shocks. I got it to hook once out of a few trips to the track. They were wayyyy too loose for my car.
The one time it hooked was w/ chemically treated drag radials (lasted one pass for test purposes only) and really good track prep.

YOU make big power I do not............I've seen a couple of 8-second cars w/Ranchos though but much lighter than your car........

We were running out of adjustment with the "Big Gun" D/A Afco's on the rear. They've since been to Menscer for re-valving, including the fronts but we haven't had a chance to try them yet. Re-valving them practically doubles the price (inc shipping to UK) making them close to a set of Santhuffs.
Car is heavy but I'm sure we had a 1.34 60ft once before the re-valve but it was generally around the 1.37 mark. HTH's

Dom, curious to what number you have you ranchos set on.

Usually 3-4 at the 1/8 mile track but never tried higher or lower as that worked.............

Ok. I have the 9 ways and always hooked better set at 3 with the 90/10's on the front and that was with the small block. Not sure what to expect with the 511. May need an adjustable viking on the front. Will see.

From what Calvert told me, the only diff between the 5 and 9 ways is a minute in between adjustment and I could add the 9 way knob to achieve that but if it ain't broke, dont mess w/it.............

MoparDave ,
I ran the rancho at 8 or 9 from full , near enough full tight . No issues with my 44p . Could not get a handle on the 505 , Vikings solved that

Tex

This is an Under Car shot of Vikings in action... on this day track conditions were horrible.. nonetheless it was still an 8-second pass....still perfecting the settings.. https://youtu.be/R3-1NDiZbJA

Been in my thoughts i could have issues there, but more so with front shocks vs rear. Have to run it as is to see what it does first.

afco 3850 for the rear
3855m for the front .

afco recommended me there 125# springs

with a guesstimate of 1600 pounds on the rear

my car is 3375 with me ready to race

what size springs do other duster guys use,

The 125's will work well for you at that weight.

imo strange has been great on my car and some other cars i have helped set up for radials and offers free stiffer valving at no extra cost for cars over a 1000 hp if you run a slick shocks do not need to be as good

Did you do your home work and measure the length required for your car???? I would not just go with there recommended shock length, Take the time and measure.

We run Strange DA on the rear of the heads up car. They do have their Pro Mod valving in them too. Been great for us and we are handcuffed by running a very short shock because of the body style of the car.

As for spring rate you just need enough spring to hold the car up with the shock at ride height.

bought the afcos
duster 3375 new best 60ft 1.33 tb rpm4500
12.5 psi 29.5 x 10.5
hit 14 click from full stiffness
bump 9 click from full stiffness
I didn't even try other settings car pulled wheels 50ft

NOW on to the other issue jet changes didn't affect mph
131.66mph im losing 4-5mph due to something ? almost @ 1000ft it just wont pull more rpm it seems like it hits a wall

happy with the afcos

Hood scoop or no? Fuel pressure on big end? RPM where it is occuring? More info on the combo and whats going on up top will help.

no hood scoop, rock solid pressure 5.5 psi, isky 700# over the nose pressure on 276@.050 .630 lift.
1.33 sixty
1-2 7000rpm,
2-3 short shifted at 6300
mph still stays the same
more info coming

What carb and what needle and seats.. need more
info to help you

1.33 60
4.042 330
6.35 1/8th@ 106.25mph
10.07 1/4@ 131.66mph

hp innovation e 85 carb PLEASED with .130 seats

1050 dommy relative flat fuel curve entire pass of .077 thru .086 lambda with jetting changes never changed mph at the stripe of 131.66 every time?
timing locked every pass.
car has run previous 9.92 with home built QFT 1050/4150 better weather ? cant compare don't have the data
making pass at just before 1000ft it seems to stay stuck on 6700 rpm and cross at 6700