Transmission fluid capacity 48re

Wanna dump trans fluid & filter. Anyone know how many quarts of tranny fluid & which fluid is suggested? Are some filter pan gasket kits better than others? Thanks for the help. Dave ss/ea #1355

hi
when my 47re was empty it took 13 to fill it and the converter !

prob gona need 7 to 9 my guess ?

Anyone with a suggestion? Dave ss/ea #1355.

Only a few suppliers out there that make the filter. Any name brand is fine. The 48 came with a reuseable pan gasket - a plastic backbone gasket with rubber beaded seals. The best gasket out there. I would reuse it.
Stay away from cork or that other garbage. And NO RTV is needed. I would use any name brand ATF + 4. Don't use dexron, mercon or F in any Mopar OD unit if you are towing or hauling.

if you don't have the reusable gasket.... get one. Torque to 120"lb. I've reused the one on my race trans more times than I care to think of.

filling after service can vary, but I'd start with 7. Loosen the valve body and you'll drain the converter so that can add to the sum of what's needed to put back in.

6 to 7 qts should get it with a simple filter change and wiping out the pan. Reuse the factory gasket and refill with ATF+4. Check your kickdown band adjustment while you are there. 48REs are rough on the kickdown band by nature so be sure to check yours. LR band should be checked as well but not as critical.

You're wasting your time doing a filter and pan drain. You'll get 50% of the old fluid out. Like stated earlier - carefully loosen the valve body to help drain the converter ( at least half of it at least ). Then remove both cooler lines at the trans and drain the lines and coolers by taking a blow gun to the front cooler line - the one at the bell housing end ( with the rear cooler line in a large container or drain pan ). Adjusting the front band as mentioned earlier is a good idea too.

Thanks guys appreciate the answers. Dave ss/ea #1355

just a ? when draining the cooler can you do that after the pan is empty and just blow out the exit line and drain it back in the pan for less mess.all these years iv never drained the vert and cooler,this is a good post

Try it. I never heard of anyone doing I though.
I would have to imagine that would take much longer since you are restricting the flow because you are forcing all the fluid in to the geartrain. You can't go the other direction because of the anti-draindown valve.

I eliminated the drain back valve. I'm never comfortable with anything that can cause restriction in the cooling circuit.

i was under the impression that the fluid drained back to the pan.you learn somthing every

If I am not mistaken there are two draindown valves in some of these vehicles. One near the heat exchanger by the engine and another in the cooler line. If you removed one valve - you can remove both lines from the trans and have no problem blowing either direction. If you can't you still have a valve in the system. As for where the fluid drains to - if it has a valve it is not supposed to drain appreciably. You will still get some drainage through the pump rotors, some through the lines at shut down. But I was told that the cooler as it cools actually causes a slight vacuum. With the valve you end up with an air lock. The valve is supposed to open at 1 psi - more than the air lock can overcome.

Are you having a problem? Why not have a shop flush it?? Way easier than all of this ^^^. Sorry Guys but that is how it is done these days...

Not having a problem, color is not what I'd like it to be. Doesn't smell burnt or anything seems to function properly. If it gets funnier looking I'll consider the shop deal thanks for all the advice. Dave ss/ea #1355

WedgeFED - you can take your vehicle to whomever you want - I'm quite capable of taking care of mine.

X2. The only way to properly flush a system is with a flushing machine. I do several times a week.

He's not flushing because of a failure - only for maintenance. What flushing machine do you use. I have a Hotflush. Look it up. I did extensive testing while at Chrysler on flushing cooler systems - over the course of 10 + years. You would be surprised to learn how crappy some of the flush machines are that are being used.

Why not unhook the cooler return line and put it in a bucket, then put trans in neutral and idle the engine; let the pump pump out the old fluid while dumping clean fluid into the fill tube. Once it comes out clean and red, shut off the engine and hook everything back up, then top the fluid off

That works too. But we stopped making that suggestion on the Tech Line as it seemed some techs didn't understand the importance of not letting it run dry before shutting the engine down. And in the case of this fellow - that only gets the fluid out - he still wants to replace the filter.

I work in a automotive shop. We use a BG machine. Never said you were not capable... Just that a fluid exchange is much easier with the machine. And yes this is not my first rodeo either. Just wanted to offer advise nothing else.

Right. I assumed he would do the flush after dropping the pan and swapping the filter.