I wire alternator to kill switch in rear

If I buy a 1 wire alternator, use 2 guage wire, and run that 2 guage from the positive on the alternator to the battery side of the kill switch in the rear of the car..... should I be good to go?

Hi Don! Yes, other than the fact that the wire is hot all the time. I set mine up with a continuous duty solenoid so it when the switch is off, it kills power in the wire to the alternator. Here is a wiring diagram.

Jim the alt wire is only hot when the engine is running (switch is on).
The ign./ key goes to the small term. correct?
Where do you mount the relay? that is a good idea.
Don

2 gauge is awfully heavy. I use 8, maybe 6 on a real long run or a car with a high electrical load. You're not charging a dead battery - or shouldn't be - just maintaining voltage with the engine running. Heck, I use 2 for the main cable. Don't need an extra 20lbs in the car.

Not in the case of a 1 wire GM alternator. It will be hot all the time when connected to the battery side of the switch. If you connect the wire from the alternator to the car side of the switch, the car will keep running on alternator even when the kill switch is off. The wiring diagram kill's power power to the alternator when the switch is off.

I have the relay in the trunk next to the kill switch.

So if I do it like in my original post, when I flip the switch will it kill the car running or not?
Kinda confused I guess.

Yes, the car will be killed when you flip the switch but the wire will be hot all the time. The relay prevents that.

Guess I dont see the issue with it being " hot" when the car is turned off. The battery is " hot" too when the car is turned off. That's like saying a light switch is hot when it's off, because power is still at the switch.

??

Not a huge deal, until you think everything is off and put a wrench on the alternator to remove it and create a bunch of sparks when it hit's the frame. I've done that a few times pulling the motor prior to fixing it with the relay. I also think about the case of a wreck, and something pinches the wire from to the alternator to the battery. I want everything off from the batteries forward when the switch if off.

That's why I put a fuse at the trunk/battery end of my alternator cable...

Moroso makes the alt. kill switch. part # MOR-74108. have these in 2 cars. works when the Tech guy wants to see the switch actually work. my $.02

There is some good reading to do here prior to your wiring job

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

Anybody have a diagram for wiring the solenoid with an old school Mopar alternator?

My continuous solenoid is wired through my 4 pole cutoff switch and my ignition switch. That way I can leave the main power on and not worry about the battery going dead.

I learned that the Cole Hearsey(sp?) solenoid is much better than the ford style solenoid I was using. The Cole Hersey one has lasted 4 years now, I used to keep a wrench in the car so I could lean under the dash and whack the old ford style so it would start working, one whack was good for 24 hours.

I have the Cole Hearsey one as well, just wired to the kill switch. Good call on wiring it to the IGN!

I didn't like the idea of having a hot wire under the hood when everything is "off", and I can't find my rulebook, but isn't it supposed to kill all the power?

Just use a dual (4 terminal) cutoff switch like the Moroso 74102
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/74102/10002/-1

Yeah I wired it to the ignition after I got in late one night and forgot to turn the kill switch off, then didn't touch the car for two weeks.

I believe the cutoff is supposed to kill the car and all power.

Get one of these, a Cole Hersee 75912BX 125 amp continuous, 750 momentary, and a double pole double terminal to have one side to cut off the battery, the other to cut the alternator.

Would Quick Car P/N: 55-011 work as well? Or should a switch with all 4 post of 3/8 studs be used? I see some switches with 2 post 3/8 and 2 are 10/32. I use a Jegs 70 AMP alt and have a 4 gauge wire ran to the master switch at the moment, but like others above I want to kill everything when the switch is Off.

I run the alt pos to the back BUT I put a 100a
fuse at each end so if it shorts at ANY point it
will blow either or both fuses.. a standard car
is hot all the time.. and the rules say it has to
kill the engine
EDIT
I should say I run it on the batt side of the cut
off switch like a lot do.. just with the fuses in
line.. 15% greater than the alt will put out at max