No fire, crank trigger, grid, pro mag

My car fires right up when triggered from the mag. Plugging in the new crank trigger with the grid, she doesn't want to fire. I have been told I need more RPM's in cranking when firing a mag with a crank trigger and to switch it to 24v cranking. Sounds like it's cranking quite fast now, Grid displays 145-155 cranking RPM on 12V.
Is anyone firing a ProMAg from a crank trigger 12V? Or how fast does yours need to spin to start?

Call MSD I'm assuming your bypassing the magneto so it is completely out of the ignition circuit except for distributing spark Via the rotor, yes or no?

When I bypass it as you say to the crank trigger nothing happens. If I let the mag trigger it it runs fine.

I talked to Jesse Adams and he said that you do indeed need to run the starter at 24 volts to get it to fire on the crank trigger. I think Meziere, CSR or MSD sells a solenoid for the starter. Jesse had the same problem on his door car and like you just bypassed the crank trigger. He did say the timing is way more deadly on the crank trigger and 24v starter is the way to go.

Thanks Dave, I can fire the solenoid on 12v and feed 24 to the starter, race is Friday, that's next weeks project now

crank triggers wear out over time- is a new one or older one?

Brand New

Electrimotion makes a switch so that you can change the inputs. You can start it on the mag, then once it's running you can switch it over to the grid. I usually likes to have the timing really low, like 15-20 so that it can start really easy, then have the Grid have the correct timing, like 28 or so, depending on the combo. Then the Grid can control all the down track stuff

And 16v should be able to spin it up no problem. But I would definitely install the switch

Thanks for your input, Someone else mentioned using a switch to flip it over after running but said they have had the switches fail

Every blower car I have been around has one, and I have never, personally, seen one fail. Not that it can't or won't happen! But that is why you set the timing on the mag low. If the switch does die and you can only run the mag, the timing will be low enough that you probably be able to go up and down the track. Maybe not as quick as you would like, but you can make a hit and come back and fix it. I would rather have the switch, and the chance of it failing, than have it 24v. It's a complete pain to wire a car up both ways, with 24v and 12v.

I started all my mag engines off 24 volts. I don't fully understand what you are doing but doing a 24 starting system is easy with a series/parallel switch. It doesn't require much more wiring and it will start on 24 volts and run everything else on 12 volt.

Thank you, sounds like a great idea. I ran it off the mag last year, it runs fine but the timing bounces a lot. Trigger made it run dead on. The trigger will fire it at 15 degrees and run but not at 21 where I need it to be??????

I have a few old (new) series parallel switches at work on the shelf but I really don't think this would need one. I'm pretty sure I can ground one side of battery "a" and run a tap off the other side to run all 12V items, series battery "B" to it and run a tap off the other side to power 24V to the main power stud on the starter.
Series parallel would be handy to charge the batteries but I have no alternator

Send me a PM if you want to sell one of those switches and what you want for it.

Try checking the rotor phase. I'd bet that's it.

Did recheck and phase it, I guess I have other electrical issues to track down too