489 Thrust Block Removal

I'm in the process of changing over to rear disk brakes on my 69 GTX 8 3/4.
Car has Moser axles and green bearings.
I installed one side and it went great, tried to install the other axle on the other side and it stops about 1/4" from seating.
Guess the backing plates and gaskets must add up to 1/4".
When I installed the green bearing I must have left the thrust block in the center section.
How do you remove the thrust block??
It is a cone style 489 center.
It would be easy to machine the axle length down .125" per side, but they are newer axles and would this voide any warranty with moser??
Should I just pull the pig and get the thrust block out of there?
Thanks for any help guys!
Ed

Before you decide it's the thrust block fighting you try loosening the nuts holding the other axle in & see if the axle currently giving you problems goes in...If it does than yeah you have to deal with the thrust block...But if it doesn't the most likely you have a slight misalignment of the splines in the side gear & the cone...My picture below is of a clutch but cones have a similar spline design... If thats the problem tighten the nuts on the first axle then loosen the nuts on the problem axle slightly & mount a wheel with a couple lugs, you don't need the brake drum... Now grab the wheel & try twisting/rocking the wheel while pushing inward...You should feel the axle move inward if/when the splines align...

FWIW my understanding is with the clutch style you need to remove the thrust pins but the cone style the block doesn't need to be removed...

If I loosen the other side she goes right in.
Seems I can seat either side but not both!
The pin must float?
Can the pin be removed with a strong magnet on the eand of a stick or axle, or does something hold the darn thing in?
Thanks!! I was soo hoping you were right!!

It floats. The spacer on the clutch suregrips is held by a pin thats peened over on one end. You are going to need to pull the chuck and drive a punch to drive out the pin and the two halves of the spacer block will come out of their respective sides.

Unfortunately he has a cone style suregrip & to remove the spacer on that requires completely disassemly of the third member...There is an actual block with an oversized hole throught it that floats on the cross shaft.... You might wanna reconsider trimming the axles...

The clutch style has removeable thrust buttons.. You have the cone style with the trust block. I am not sure if you can just remove it and run without it...
Hate to say it but the cone style aren't known for high hp longevity. But if you are gonna make this setup work I'm thinking you're best off machining the axles down to the correct length. I'm in the same process right now , and I see theres another thread about it, But hes in my boat with the thrust BUTTON deal..
What I'd like to know is if you want the axles to be very close, or very far from the thrust area...

Quote:

---

What I'd like to know is if you want the axles to be very close, or very far from the thrust area...

---

You want the axles as long as possible so they have full contact with the splines...The picture I posted above shows there are two sets of splines so while you know your gonna have full contact with the first (outer)set the second (inner) set sometimes strip or twist on the axle...